I notice that some manufacturers use a resaw adapter that increases the column height of their saw to change the resaw capacity from maybe 6 to 12 inches.
Has anyone inserted two adapters? My suspicion is that even 1 insert is a compromise compared to the saws that are designed to resaw 12 or 18″.
Is it more difficult to align a bandsaw with the resaw adapter inserted than without the adapter? Is it more difficult to keep it aligned?
Greg
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Replies
Greg,
It is possible to add a second adapter to a Delta style 14" saw. The frame would probably still be stiff enough to allow the blade to be aligned and track properly. In my experience a single riser block has no affect on the alignment of a saw or the ability to keep the saw aligned.
One problem that would arise is that to use that much capacity the blade would have to be wider than the maximum of 3/4" that those saws are designed to handle. The added width is needed to create deep gullets to carry the sawdust through the long cut.
A second problem is that the saw would need a large motor to power it. The shaft, bearings and pulleys of the 14" saws would be undersized for a motor larger than 2 horsepower.
John White
So it seems I would be better served with one of the larger industrial machines for larger resaw capabilities..Am I better off using the largest blade possible on my bandsaw? I am considering one with a 1-3/16 max, would there be an advantage of using a 1-1/4 blade over a 1" blade?Do you recommend a shop having a series of blades from min to max for the machine to cut various size radiuses? I am looking at a blade package that includes 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1 inch standard blades and a 1-1/4 resaw blade. In your opinion, is this overkill?
Edited 8/4/2007 8:16 pm by Cincinnati
Unless you plan to do a lot of tight radius scroll work, a 3/8" or 1/2" wide blade for cutting curves and a 1" blade for resawing would probably be all you would ever need. It is more important that you keep a few spare blades on hand so you can throw a new blade on the saw when the old blade starts to act up because it is getting dull.
In general you should use the widest blade that your machine can properly handle for resawing. On most saws a blade that is just a bit smaller than the rated maximum size seems to work the best. Resawing problems are almost always due to having a dull or too fine toothed blade on the machine, rarely does going up a fraction of an inch in blade size improve the performance.
John W.
Hello John,
I don't mean to high-jack this thread but, I have a table saw question (observation) I would like to have your thoughts on.
Ever since purchasing my Delta Unisaw a little over a year ago I suspected there might be something just a bit off. While ripping stock, especially when using the Micro-Jig Grr-ripper, where the off cut to the left of the blade is held and fed with the keeper past the blade, I noticed some slight burning on the off cut. The blade is a new, clean WWII. So, yesterday I made all of the alignment checks and found the miter slot (right) to be a bit out of alignment with the blade. There was a small gap, my best guess is a few thousands, at the back of the blade. I loosened the table screws and, with a rubber mallet, closed the gap. Now the right miter slot is aligned the same at the front and back of the blade. Then, just for grins, I did the same test in the left miter slot, and to my surprise, the error was now on the right side. Obviously the miter slots on the Unisaw are not parallel. Is this common, or should I say to be expected from Delta and is it best to split the difference when aligning, or set the right and use only the right slot when precision is utmost?
Thanks,
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
If I understand how you are setting up the tool. You should never have your feather-boards or pressure rollers set past the front edge of the blade.
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