Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 01, 2007 06:12am | #1

   Yours is a Delta 14" saw?  The Timberwolf should be a great blade.  I don't know about measured tension, 'cause I don't have any way to do that in my shop.  The flutter test should give you the best results, but don't go past the 1/8-th additional turn they describe** in the directions, found here.  These blades are designed to run on lower tension that other blades.  Adding tension doesn't gain you anything except stress on the saw.

   I've heard from others that the Woodslicer dulls quickly.  I've only used Timberwolf blades on my 14" saw.  If I had a big MiniMax or other large saw, I might opt for different blades, at least to try, but see no reason to go elsewhere for a 14" saw.

   [** Of course, the proof is in the cutting.  If your resaw cuts "aren't quite right" and increasing the tension just a bit makes them perfect, the sky will not fall. ;-) ]

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

   
   

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   Edited 3/31/2007 11:14 pm by forestgirl

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Apr 01, 2007 11:35pm | #2

   On page 16 of FWW issue #182 there is described a fairly neat way to measure blade tension. I don't have issue #147 which is referenced there nor have I tried to check out his data from an engineering standpoint. I probably couldn't anyway since I have no idea what alloy steel is used. Whether I do the flutter test or measure tension, the spring compression is about the same. Apparently 15 ksi is low tension by Timberwolf standards.The Timberwolf blade does cut nicely, but the kerf looks a bit wider than I would like for resawing. A smoother cut with no wandering may be as good as a narrow kerf, however. Thanxx!! for the input.Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 02, 2007 06:12am | #3

   Specifically which TimberWolf blade did you get?  They do make some very narrow kerf blades, for veneer work.  I get lost in their offerings, usually ask their advice, but I'm curious which blade you got.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Apr 02, 2007 02:35pm | #4

   Length 105 width 1/2 TPI 3 thick .025. On the back of the cardboard the use is indicated as resaw. It does well. It makes a sound different from other blades I have used. They claim "Turns tighter" which indicates more tooth set than others which would increase the kerf width.I think the information I REALLY need is which woods eat bandsaw blades. I check out what information I have available WRT that quality. I seem not to have enough information. These blades are too expensive to learn by trial and error.Thanxx!! again.Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 02, 2007 07:21pm | #5

   Expensive.....try one of the carbide-tipped blades.  That's expensive, LOL.  Suffolk often has a "buy 2 (or is it 3?) get one free" special.  Right now, the special they have involves buying 5 blades (ouch!) and getting a free, new "variable claw" resaw blade.

   Sounds like you have the PC series blade.  According to their catalog, it's designed to cut quickly, but leaves an "excellent finish" (minimizing sanding/planing).  The set is evidently less than it would be in a traditional band design.  Meant for use in kiln-dried wood.

   The other series.... AS series are thicker, full set, used for very thick stock (6-8"), such as stacked parts, bowl turnings, etc.  The AS-S is a 3/4" blade, 3 tpi,, very small kerf for veneer cutting in expensive woods.  Slow but good finish.   A couple others.......

   Can't help you with how hard any given wood is on a blade, although it's probably easy to guess on some, like the super-hard exotics.

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   Wanda200 | Apr 03, 2007 03:01am | #6

   Hi Cadiddlehopper,

   You should pick up a copy of  The Best of Fine woodworking Powertool Basics 2007.

   You might find  Michael Fortune's Article on page 30  (5 no hassle tips guarantee smooth, straight cuts on any bandsaw) very interesting.

   He uses a 1/2" 3 tooth per inch blade  which he says can handle most jobs.(ripping, resawing  and cutting curves.  According to him High blade tension IS NOT necessary and you can eliminate blade drift by adjusting the position of the blade on the upper wheel. Adjust the angle of the upper wheel so the blade rides at the center. If the blade is centered the saw will cut straight no need for any jigs.

   for smooth precise cuts he sets the blocks using a piece of cigarette paper or a feeler gauge instead of a dollar bill which is thicker. The closer the blade is to the blocks the better.

   I'm certainly going to give this a try. I used playing cards to set the thrust bearing and a paper bill to set the guide blocks. I think I'll try his method and see what happens. 

   Wanda

3. 
   JulianBE | Apr 03, 2007 04:03pm | #7

   I will vouch for the effectiveness of Fortune's bandsaw tips.  I put the 1/2" 3TPI on my 14" bandsaw in the middle of the wheels, tensioned it to the 3/8" setting, put back the metal guides, and it all works like a charm- precise and relaxed.  Now whenever I see those elaborate procedures and fences for drift compensation, jewel-like Carter guides, and tensions that threaten to fold the saw up like a pretzel,  I can skip them right over.  I used to use the fancy blades from Lee Valley, but the ones from BCsaw are about half the price and just as good.  Fortune's tips have changed my saw from something I was a little disappointed with to a great tool I use very frequently for all sorts of cuts.

4. 
   Glaucon | Apr 03, 2007 05:20pm | #8

   I agree- have not read the article, but what you describe is what I do anyway. My main blade (on an 18" SC) is a 1/2", 3 tpi Timberwolf. Cuts well, but not glass smooth. A few passes with a #4 1/2 smoother fixes that. My sense is that if your saw is properly aligned, and the blade is tracking correctly, drift is not a problem- at least I have not seen any.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

5. 
   Wanda200 | Apr 04, 2007 12:57am | #9

   Hi,

   So far I haven't run into any problems with the band saw but I use my table saw a lot more than the band saw. I'm no expert when it comes to using the band saw. The saw  seems to be tracking pretty well. Before turning on the saw I usually check to make sure the center of the blade is tracking in the center of the wheel.

   It sure did a nice job of cutting a very thin sliver off a 3/4" piece of board.  Pretty sure I have a 3/8" 3 tpi   blade on it now. I purchased a 1/2" blade but have been too lazy to change blades. I purchased the blade for around $22.00 at  a local machine/tool shop. They make their own blades.  I've never had a problem with the welding.

   Wanda

    

6. 
   cadiddlehopper | Apr 04, 2007 02:30am | #10

   As stated in my prior posts, my blade is a 3-TPI, 1/2-inch blade. I quickly wore out a Woodslicer and discovered that my tension spring was probably too weak for some jobs. Other than that, my bandsaw works great! I am pretty much up on how to adjust for best performance from it. The question is: just what is low or high tension? There seems to be some disagreement, so I set about to see what works. So far, low tension has not worked for me.Cadiddlehopper

7. 
   cadiddlehopper | Apr 04, 2007 02:41am | #11

   There is nothing on the package about a series. I got it at Woodcraft in Nashville for $31. I try not to think about a carbide-tipped bandsaw blade. Hardness of a wood is not always the problem that wears a blade. Free silica in the wood is murder on blades.Anyway, I will check out Suffolk next time I need a blade.Thanxx!!Cadiddlehopper