Hi all,
I just bought myself and brand new Jet 18″ bandsaw and am having problems with drifting. Everything has been set up as per instructions, table level, blade tensioned, tracking in the center of the wheel, bearings adjusted etc. I should also point out, that although I’ve been doing woodworking for years, this is really the first time I’ve setup and used a bandsaw, so my knowledge is limited.
I have read various articles on this and also followed their steps, some say loosen the tension, some say tighten, but I am still getting really bad drift. I did a freehand cut and setup an auxillry fence that tracked the cut, but that didn’t seem to do much, even with this fence 1″ out of square with the table and it is still drifting.
I am using the blade that came with the saw, which I know may not be the best, but I’m not trying to cut 1/32″ veneers on my first go here. The blade is 3/4″ with 3 or 4 tpi, which seems to be what people suggest. There also appears to be nothing wrong with the blade, it sits square, no wobble etc.
So how much out of square should I expect a fence to be, and what else should I be trying to get this thing to track right.
Thanks
Replies
Don't even start the saw with that blade, but save it , maybe you could plant in the back yard in the spring, it may grow lemons. Truthfully, get yourself a few Timberwolf blades and if you do a lot of resawing, perhaps a Highland Hardware Woodslicer. Then and only then can you begin finessing the saw. Dont' get me wrong, the Timberwolf can resaw well also. I have used 1/2" 3 TPI hook, type PC, with good luck, And now have some of the same but, type AS, to try.
rots o' ruck with that new saw.
Russ
To Quack... ####posting similar to yours went up last week - so, there are some of us with a ready response. I agree with the previous response: get a Woodslicer from Highland Hardware in Atlanta, Ga. You don't need anything wider than a 1/2" blade. Then, read the article on resawing in the Feb. issue of FWW... after you've read this you'll realize that drift is (for most of anyway) something you can live with. Good luck
The first thing I would do is to throw away the supplied blade and order some Timberwolf blades.
They will probably solve your problem.
You're probably wasting your time trying to use the blade that came with the saw. Look to see if you have proper tooth set on both sides of the blade. I doubt if you do. Regardless, buy and use a quality blade. I use and recommend the low tension Timberwolf blades. They cost approx $25. each for my 14" Grizzly when I bought them most recently (last year), so it's not like you're going to lay out a lot of cash for the blades. Call Suffolk and tell them what you're doing and they'll recommend what blades to use. Blade drift is a myth, at least with my saw. I cut 8" wide veneers all day long and my cuts are as straight as my straight edge. I'm serious, I've NEVER had trouble with drift with proper setup and decent blades. One other thing that's critical is chip collection. You must keep the bottom wheel clean. Good blade, good chip collection, proper blade tension, you should be good to go. What's proper blade tension? With the low tension Suffolk blades, use the flutter test to set tension. Their website has all the information and is an excellent resource. Like I said, cut perfect veneers all day long. What's not to like?
Jeff
DML
I have an older version of the Jet 18" bandsaw. I have completely gone through it, and tuned it to the best of my abilities. Many here say that any saw can be tuned to completely eliminate drift. I'd buy them a keg of their favorite beer if they could come and eliminate drift on mine. My old saw was a monster 36" Tannewitz built in 1946 with 20 foot blades and 21" of resaw capacity. It had been tuned to completely eliminate drift. Loved it, but it took up a 12' X 12' space in my shop, so it had to go.
All that being said, one of the first things you have to do is plant that lousy blade that comes with the saw in the yard, as someone already recommended. There are several blade manufacturers out there who make a very good blade for this saw. There is currently another thread running on this very subject. I happen to use the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware. I have always heard great things about the Timberwolf blades, but I have never used one. The woodslicers are $29, and you'll have it in 2 days. Rob Millard, a well respected furniture maker here, recommends bimetal blades from Starrett. It's hard to argue with his success, so I don't even try.
Once you have a quality blade on the saw, go through all the procedures again. My saw has 1/4" of drift in over the length of the tabletop. I have made my own fence which I set for the drift at the appropriate distance from the blade, depending on what I need to saw.
Good luck, and get a new blade. It'll make a huge difference.
Jeff
Sounds pretty unaimous, I'll get a new blade today and try that. Thanks
I have to say I'm a little surprised that the blade could make that much difference, like everything a good tool/blade will always improve the work and I certainly wasn't expecting to cut veeners with the blade out the box, but this just seemed like a lot of drift.
Does anybody know what specifically about the bald would cause this to happen?
Many factor's are responsible for poor blade performance. It could be the topic of an entirely new thread. However, to keep it simple, metal quality, and the manufacturing process. A large contributor to a poor blade is the set of the teeth. If they are uneven, it cause the cut to be uneven, pulling the wood to one side, not allowing the wood to track properly. That's my short answer. BTW, I'm no expert.
Jeff
Stamped teeth rather than milled teeth. Improper or varying set to the teeth of stamped teeth. Poor weld on the blade. The metal used to make the blade. Probably a lot of additional things!
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
The suggestion to toss the OE blade is a good one--if you want to save it, cut it into small pieces and use it for scratch stock bits/blades. As for the drift, I won't say that I can cure all drift problems but here are some suggestions that help me adjust my thirty-year-old Delta saw to zero drift:
1. Make certain the blade is centered on the crown of the wheel. If it drifts to the right (you have to correct by feeding from the right of a straight line), adjust the blade so that it is a little farther forward on the wheel. The opposite goes for left drift.
2. Use a good quality, sharp, blade. 1/2" with skip tooth is good. I have sent blades out to be sharpened and they have been some of the best cutting blades I've ever used.
3. Chip collection is a must. Dust and chip buildup on the lower wheel will effect tracking adversely.
4. Don't over tension the blade--use the tension recommended for the blade/saw combination that you're using.
5. Upper blade guides should be set correctly--lower ones are not critical. Some very well-known woodworkers don't even use the lower guides on their saws. Special guides and tension springs really aren't necessary--OE equipment will work fine.
6. All of this assumes that the upper and lower wheels are aligned properly.
7. Take your time and don't rush the cut. If you have to push really hard, you probably need a sharper blade.
Good luck,
DML--The suggestions you have received regarding buying better bandsaw blades are right on.
Here is a suggestion. If you want a real good, to the point, explanation of the importance of blades and any other questions regarding your bandsaw and bandsaw practices, call Suffolk Machinery. They make the Timberwolf blades. They will tell you why a lot of blades on the market have the blade drift to which you refer. You can find them by doing a Google search. Ask to speak with a technician. They will help and you will be glad you called. I promise.
Best Wishes,
Billy B.
The others here have give you very good advice about blades.
Once you have a good blade, adjusted the guides, tension, etc. -- here's something else you can do:
Take any board -- about 2' long and 6" wide will do.
Draw a straight line down the approximate middle of the board (when its laid flat down).
Free hand the cut about half way through the board. By then the saw should have established its drift angle. Stop the saw.
Now move your fence up to the edge of the test board, and ajust the fence to match the drift angle.
You will have to reestablish the drift angle (using the steps above) every time you change blades.
If that doesn't solve your drift problem, then you have to either buy or build one of the single point jigs you can either attach to the fence or clamp to your table.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
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