I have a Laguna 18 bandsaw. I like to slice up small “green” logs, 10-12″ in diameter 2-1/2 – 3 feet long, and use the wood for smaller projects. Finding that regular blades dull quickly, I splurged for a Lenox Woodmaster B (Bimetal). The blade dimensions were 1″ wide, 2 TPI, and a thickness of .035. The blade worked well until it broke and took a chunk out of the tire in the process. The breakage occurred after cutting about 8 logs sliced 1″ thick or about 96 slices 3 feet long for a total of 288 lineal feet. The teeth were still sharp. I tensioned it to the 3/4″ mark and got straight and flat cuts with no drift problems. I did not notice any difference in feed rate or smoothness of cut when the blade broke. The blade was cleaned on a regular basis sometimes even before finishing an entire log.
My question concerns whether the short life is due to the blade being too thick for the wheel diameter. Would rounding the back give me greater longevity?
What kind of blade life are other people getting with 18″ saws and Bimetal blades?
Replies
Blade life
I to cut some green and dry logs and I will say the blades do wear out quick. I have not measured the ln ft. but I do know that peeling the bark and getting the dirt off reallllllly helps. I don't think blades were meant to cut sand and grit. Water and cooling on the blade helps a bunch but it is rather hard on the cast iron top.
Did your break occur at the weld? Never had that happen... and think I would like to pass on it as well.
AZMO
Tech support
I would contact Lenox tech support about this (in addition to getting insight here). They should be able to help analyze the problem. One thing to consider -- how accurate is your in-saw tension gauge? BTW: rounding the back is, from what I understand, primarily done to ease the cutting of curves, not so much for resawing.
I use 3/4" 3 tpi Lennox
I use 3/4" 3 tpi Lennox Classic bi-metals for re-aw but not green log cutting as I only do a few logs I have taken from downed storm trees. I get a ton of miles on the bi-metal doing the re-saw. But.. the blade I use when I do take green logs apart is from Highland Woodworking and made especially for green stuff. Bark and grime are hard on blades along with the wet waste. Why your Lennox broke I won't even venture to guess. But as FG mentioned... rounding the back will have no effect as that is strickly a tactic to reduce drag in a curve cut.
If you are interested in the Highland blade go to their web-site. It is 3/8".. .032 thiich with 3 tpi alternate set with a raker and the gullets are hook shaped. I haven't had any problems the few times I have used it and at $17 a blade I don't mind breaking one occasionally as I always keep two blades on hand for just that scenario which in includes two for curve cuts on my smaller BS.. re-saw and the special green blade I mentioned.
I personally don't think your break had to do with the quality of the Lennox as they are extremely high quality. Any company can produce a bad weld occasionally and green cutting will produce a ton of heat. Tension is always an issue and I won't go there as there are many factors that could have contributed and I don't know all the facts to base a sound judgement on.
Good luck....
Try a Thinner Blade
Your basic problem was that the blade was too thick for your wheel diameter, a .025" blade would have given you the best life, with an .032" thick blade being the thickest that Lenox recommends for an 18 inch diameter wheel. According to a Lenox chart a .035" blade shouldn't be used on anything smaller than a 24" diameter wheel.
You will also get better cuts when sawing logs by using blades made especially for cutting green wood. I like the specialty blades made by Suffolk Machinery. Call them up, tell them what you are trying to do, and they will recommend the proper blade.
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