I’m in the market for a bandsaw. Can anyone recommend one that won’t break the bank. I can’t decide between bench top or floor models. ANy advice on pro or cons would help.
Of course the price between floor adn bench top models is a huge difference but I don’t want to go to cheap only to find out a few months from now I should have spent the extra dollars. Budget around $500.
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You'll get a lot more useful feedback if you give everyone an idea of what you want to do with the bandsaw. On your budget, you might seek a different sort of machine if you're sawing green blanks for turning all day, than if you want to cut veneer, or if you want it for cutting patterned pieces out of 3/4" stock. This will also help folks give you blade recommendations.
The first job I need a bandsaw for is to shape the back slats on a chair. The stock/blank will be 1.75 inch square by 15inch (there abouts). I'll need to get set up for porduction work as I need to build 6 -8 chairs.
After that project I'll be working primarilly with 1 inch stock for shaping/pattern cutting. For example a curved top piece on a head board for the spare bed. Basically I need it for simple furniture construction.
I can't see me ever needing to cut veneer or green lumber. But never say never.
Hope that helps
There are sub-$500 14" saws available from Grizzly, Delta and Jet, although the Jet saw that's on Amazon doesn't seem to show up on the Jet web site, so it may be discontinued. IMHO, a benchtop saw would be a waste of money unless you plan on doing very simple projects that don't put any stress on the saw.
The Grizzly G0555 is probably going to give you the best power, and not just because it has a motor claimed to be 1HP, vs. the 3/4HP on the Delta and Jet. Grizzly's 14" saws have consistently produced better resawing speed tests in reviews I've read over the past 5 years. For me, it would come down to a choice between the Grizzly G0555 or the Delta 28-276.
The introduction of the Grizzly G0555 a few years ago has forced the competition to introduce lower-priced 14" saws with more features. This is a great thing for folks who don't have $800+ to buy a band saw. Note the bearing guides and quick release on both the Delta and the Grizzly. In addition, Grizzly has a very nice fence. The question I would have is whether the Delta has better components than the Grizzly. The G0555 is a huge improvement over my old Grizzly 1019Z, but the Delta might be even a bit better. Main concern would be power.
One caveat: If you've never had a large tool shipped to you, take note. If the package has damage that looks like it could have hurt the tool inside, seriously consider refusing shipment and asking them to send another one. The Delta and Jet shipped from Amazon are shipped in the original packaging which means there's nothing on the outside of the box to protect it. Many folks have had problems with this, and it's a pain once you take the machine out of the box.
I'm not sure about Grizzly, as when I order from them I go up to Bellingham and pick it up myself.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Grizzly wont ship to Canada (where I'm from). Too bad. What do you think about this one.
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=16336
The user's manual doesn't show how to mount the motor. Maybe it's intuitive when you get the box open. Anybody else use this machine?
The on-off switch looks like it was made by RIDGID. The latter company makes a 14" bs that doesn't seem to get any comments on this forum. Don't know why. Lot of people use that machine and it rated a "best value" in a recent FWW review.
I don't know that company, but personally I'd not buy a band saw with a 3/4HP motor unless I knew I wouldn't do any resawing down the line. Just my opinion.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Not to put too fine a point on it, but here's what a 3/4 hp machine can do in resaw. Walnut half log, a little over 5" radius at beginning, 10 passes to remove the sapwood and get some usable stock. The piece at 90º from the blade came off from the one behind the blade. ;>)
That's beautiful. But it doesn't change my mind ;-) Granted, a 1/2HP Baldor or equivalent motor probably performs as good as many other 3/4HP motors. But given the type of motors that are in Jet, Delta (I think...) and Grizzly, I'd stick with 3/4 or above.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
>>"I'd not buy a band saw with a 3/4HP motor unless I knew I wouldn't do any resawing. . ."
>". . . given the type of motors that are in Jet, Delta (I think...) and Grizzly, I'd stick with 3/4 or above." (emphasis mine)
Thanks for the kind words. I was not trying to change your mind, but my post was to show that some us do use a 3/4 hp machine, and the results can be quite satisfactory.
I, too, wouldn't take a chance on the machine listed in the link posted above; too many unknowns.
Cheers, -- Roy
Canwood is house of tools own brand. They carry a limited selection of tools. Seems they have one of each (1 Contractors saw, 1 Cabinet saw, 1 14" bandsaw, 1 18"...) I've had a sneaking suspision that the Canwood is made by GI... That's just a guess though. But if you compare the machines side by side, they look very similar. Maybe next time I'm at the House of Tools, I'll take a closer look.
That said, the Canwood machines are a step down from the GI machines. The quality controls are not as strict. As well the fit and finish is not always the same. This bandsaw looks very similar to my GI, but with an open base...
Canwood is a decent value for it's price.
Tonnes of great advise. Thanks all. I hit the big sale at the local tool shop and went with the Delta 14". I got a deal on the open base model. Still setting it up though. Tough job lifting the unit onto the base by ones self.
A few questions for you. How close should the bearing wheel be behind the blade. The manual says 1/16. Does that mean it should just barely be touching the blade as it turns. Or does it mean just barely not touching the blade. IF you know what I mean.
I know what the manual says about how close the ceramic ( i think) guides should be to the blade as it turns, but where do you set them.
P.S. And its so quite I can work while my daughter sleeps
1/16th seems like alot. I forget the exact measurement recommended for my Grizzly 14", but I think it was a dollar bill folded in two. I've switched to Post-It notes, LOL. I like the back support bearing to contact the blade as soon as I put any pressure on the stock. Others may think differently.
I've never used ceramic guides. For metal guides, they sit just behind the teeth at the edge of the gullet -- with the teeth being set to one side and the other, you don't want them rubbing the guides. With cool blocks you can bury the blade in the blocks. I just don't know about ceramic.
Congrats on the saw! Yes, they are very quiet and enjoyable to use. The noise comes in when you hook up dust collection, LOL. Please, be careful moving it around. They are top-heavy and can have you on your backside in a hurry.
Get yourself a good bandsaw book: Bird or Duginske. Invaluable for setting it up and using it properly. Get good blades too (is that repetitive? sorry!)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Congratulations! I think you made a great choice. A very nice feature of this bandsaw is that it can grow for you. It will take 3/4" wide blades. A riser block kit will double the cutting depth. You can replace the motor with a larger one if you think that you must. I got a 1-1/2-hp for mine, but I am going to put the original 3/4 back on it. I resaw, but don't see that all that power helps. The Highland Hardware folks say I don't need it either.I examined the Griz 0555 in Springfield before purchasing. The structure looks a bit wimpy and the table is smaller than Delta. I don't see any need for a fence nor for more than one speed. Other strokes for other folks.My bandsaw is the power tool with which I am most pleased. You probably will never want to part with it. It has set the standard for others.Cadiddlehopper
What's your opinion on putting the saw base on casters so it can be moved. Then I don't have to ask 4 of my neighbours to help move it. Although its a good excuse to get together and have a beer. My tablesaw is on casters and it works great. I'm worried since the saw is so top heavy. Would there be any concerns for vibration.
I too use ceramic guide blocks, but set them so I can just see light between them and the blade. I set the thrust bearing till it just moves and then back it off 1/64". Have a 14" jet but don't go over 1/2" blade, Personally I don't want the tension of a 3/4" blade put on my saw. Can resaw perfectly well with the 1/2" X 3TPI Hook.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S. Counter Sales, Tech Rep. http://WWW.EAGLEAMERICA.COM
I would never put it on permanent casters. A mobile base may work for you, but be careful when moving it. Once moved, the mobile base is retracted so that the legs are back on the floor. It should then be as stable as ever. For added stability when moving, a mobile base which fits outside the stand sounds like a good idea. Of course, you need a smooth, clean floor, too. Of all my tools, the bandsaw & floor model drill press are the two I least want to move about.I'm not the expert on making tools portable. I don't have to move my own anymore. Perhaps you should address your question to others on this site also. LOL.Cadiddlehopper
Thanks for all the leg work :):)
My wife is looking at the Delta 28-276 for me for our anniversary. (she really does love me!). The comments and reviews you generated have helped. I currently have an old delta 3 wheel. It was a spur of the moment, garage sale, couldn't turn down for the price deal. Decent machine but can't keep a blade welded together but one. Wheels are just too small and flex the blade too much. So time to pass it on..... and replace.
I believe it's worth considering the new Craftsman Professional 14" bandsaw. With a Craftsman Club discount and a promotional sale (that happens almost weekly) this unit can be had for between $380 and $450 out the door if you pick it up. That an a couple high quality blades and you're still in for about $500
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922401000
Say what you will about Craftsman but this is an exceptionally well built and featured machine at this price. It appears to be the same unit as the Rikon that Woodcraft sells (with a different paint scheme and slightly different knobs) but it includes a adequate fence, has an additional 2" of re-saw capacity and, for what's it's worth, is easier to purchase directly and easier to return to Sears should you decide it's not what you want.
Knowing that I imagine you'll be able to get part from Rikon longer than from Sears.
I hope so... I just picked one up yesterday.
Forestgirl knows her stuff and I agree with her when it comes to the Grizzly and or Delta... It sounds like you have a lot of projects or jobs lined up and looks like you will continue with this endeavor for some time. I know you're trying to keep the $$ low but..IF you could afford a little bit more of an investment, look at the 14" Laguna. It's a great saw. I have a 16HD and use the heck out of it in my business. What I've seen and read about the newest (about 1-2 yrs. old) Laguna 14" is a fine saw with more than adequate power for all operations .When I first started using the ceramic guides I wasn't to sure about them since I was used to bearing guides on a different Eourpean saw. After spending an hour or so with these guides I will never go back to the bearing guide. They also have great 'cool blocks' for the smaller stuff. What ever you decide to purchase, I would look into the ceramic guides if you're going to do a lot of cutting. I hope I helped you...
I just purchased the Laguna 14SE. I noted that manual says that, with ceramic guides, you don't necessarily need to file the backside of the blades. Any opinions on this? Also, should you lubricate the blades (with PAM, etc) when using ceramic guides?
After installing the blade I was going to use I set the rear ceramic guide just touching the back of the blade then pulled it back the thickness of a piece of paper. The thing about ceramic guides is that when they are touching they do Not get hot...which I like. It will not hurt the blade or guides while running idle if it touches etc. As for the side guides, I did the same thing as above but placed them behind the gullet of the blade so not to ruin the blade.
One thing that I noticed that I did NOT like was that when you first start using a blade there's tiny sparks coming from the back of the blade. I freaked-got on the phone with Tobin (Laguna CEO) and a service tech as well and they both told me that this was normal and it will go away very soon after using it for a minute or two. The 'sparks' are very very tiny and very very small but I was worried that they could start a fire. I've been using my 16HD for two plus years with different blades and have had NO problem with this. As for using narrow blades for scroll work etc. the ceramic side guides pops out, the cool blocks in, and you can place them right against the blade without a problem.
As for spraying the blade with Pam or? I've done this a couple of times and when I did, I used a product that's called 'Top Cote' ? a very dry lubricant but I don't believe this is necessary.
FYI One thing that you might want to look out for is by spraying some products (believe it or not even Pam has some) to lubricate is some have silicone which will cause problems with some finishes. As for fileing the blades. I've done both and have not seen any difference by fileing or not with the ceramic guides.
Let me know how you do and I hope this will help you...
Steve
Thanks Steve. Your infor on the the ceramic guides was very helpful. I managed to move the bandsaw to the basement, so will get it fired up this weekend.
--With regard to the cool blocks: What is a good source? Do you need to buy a special size to fit the guides?
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