Replies

1. 
   ajoe | Mar 07, 2007 11:26pm | #1

   Duct tape and a 2x4.

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 07, 2007 11:29pm | #2

   Use double sided tape to attach the PVC to the wide face of a piece of something like a 1x2 and then rip it with the wood on edge against the fence and the blade set to the centerline of the pipe. 

   If you are really serious about protecting the pipe, you would be better off laying a piece of 1x4 plastic decking or pressure treated wood on top of the pipe after you placed a couple of inches of tamped soil over the line first.  A shovel would have no trouble cutting through both the plastic pipe and the copper in one stab. 

   Placing a strip of barrier tape, the "Police Lines Do Not Cross" type of stuff in the trench several inches above the pipe also helps.  You can get the tape marked for "Caution Buried Pipe" but any day-glo tape would alert someone digging to be careful.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine 

1. 
   gcrow | Mar 09, 2007 07:21am | #4

   thanks to all of you for your ideas. ive decided to use a piece of 3/4 inch square tubing and use double-sided tape to run against the fence. works great and its 10 ft. long.  when iam done i can keep it for another welding project. thanks again gerry.

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 09, 2007 07:35pm | #5

   Gerry,

   Buried in the soil next to each other, the copper pipe and the steel tubing will react with each other chemically and one or the other will basicaly turn to dust through corrosion in just a few years, so this isn't a good plan, especially if it is the pipe that breaks down.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   pzaxtl | Mar 09, 2007 08:22pm | #6

   and, of course, you cannot cut steel with a wwing bandsaw, at least, not without trashing a blade or two or three.  Since the op asked about cutting the pvc pipe with a bandsaw, I assume he is thinking of using the same to cut the steel.

1. 
   ajoe | Mar 09, 2007 08:36pm | #7

   Wow. My ADD must be acting up today, OR has this discussion suddenly went into left field?

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 09, 2007 08:41pm | #8

   You are right, but he didn't ask about cutting steel with a band saw, and being that he apparently knows how to weld, I presume he knows what he is doing when cutting metal.

   John W.

2. 
   gcrow | Mar 10, 2007 02:31am | #9

   john, iam sorry if i wasnt clear. iam only using the square tubing with double-back tape to stick to  the pvc, only as a guide for cutting, on the bandsaw.  after cutting i will pull the square tubing off the pvc. i will then have two halves ten feet long. ill place one half over the copper pipe , as a cqp to protect the copper pipe, tie-strap it and paint it blue. sorry for the confusion gents. thanks gerry

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 11, 2007 03:15am | #10

   Mystery solved, good luck with your project.

   John W.

2. 
   gcrow | Mar 11, 2007 07:19am | #11

   thanks for the help john, sure like the articles you do for the magazine.  i turned my neighbor, an attorney, into a woodworker, who had no prior exposure , by doing your workbench project.  he has developed into an attorney, with a serious woodworking habit, and a great shop.  i credit youra article on the workbench with getting him started.  you should see the quality of work he does now. you would be proud.  i studied to be an industrial arts teacher, so i appreciate great information from your magazines.  i get fine woodworking, fine homebuilding and fine cooking.  all great magazines which i  have learned much from the well written articles and well procuced  magazines.  now if you guys will just start a bbq magazine ill be set.  thanks gerry

3. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 08, 2007 07:08am | #3

   gcrow, If you make a trough-like jig thet looks like a looong miter box. The shape of the trough would have two upright (vertical and parallel sides spaced apart to accommodate the diameter of the tubing

   The bottom of the 'miterbox' should be sawn to the shape of a V (This can be routed using a router bit having a 90°angle) Called a V grooving bit The trough should be at least 36" long and clamped securely to the band saw table. and centered to the blade.
   You must FIRST rip a saw kerf through half of the forward trough.
   Once you feed the tubing into the blade several inches , you must clamp in place a metal guide plate that will just fit the sawcut and extend downward to the table.
   Once the advancing cut section of the tubing is 'captured' by the plate,it cannot wander or,rotate in the jig .

   I f the tubing is long, and to prevent it from sagging, you might build a support or extension table at the same height as the bottom of the tubing.
   Try not to traverse too slowly, as the heat may soften along the cut also a spray of silicone will lubricate the cut(BUT not until the material is well beyond the blade) you don't want to get any on your tires. Steinmetz.