Replies

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Oct 07, 2005 01:16am | #1

   Hi Yogi, kind of tough to figure out what bandsaw you've got with that info.  Can you find a manufacturers name or post a photo?

    

   Steve
1. 
   Yogi | Oct 07, 2005 02:39am | #2

   Steve-  Thanks for your reply-  Nope, can't find a name-  Odd, that-  And I don't have one of those cameras to post a photo for you- 

   How tight is tight?  I expect that is determined somewhat by the size of the blade?  Actually the blade kinda turned left & right as I tried to begin a radius cut yesterday-

   Also, what sort of table do I need?  It has one, of course, a proportionately small one, which originally, evidently, came with some sort of fence & slide, both of which are missing-  It's a handy little saw, and I can see where it could be of use if I figure out how to use it-  Maybe I should just get a book?

1. 
   BG | Oct 07, 2005 03:04am | #3

   Yogi,
   I bought the book, but to be perfectly honest, some of the articles in FWW over the past couple of years were a better resource.
   Let me suggest a few things and others can chime in: First, the wheels must be co-planer (ie. in the same plane). If you take a long rule and place it vertically on the edges of the wheels..do both wheels on both sides(top and bottom) make contact with the long rule. Once that is done than the next issue it to get the saw blade to track in the middle of the wheel(tire). There is usually an adjustment which will allow you to change the pitch of the upper wheel. Third on the list is setting the tension....for starters just make is failry tight...not so much to pull it out of co-planer. Fourth is setting the cool blocks..this keeps the blade from twisting..if you have cool blocks set them so that they touch the blade on both sides. When in use the cool blocks are brought fairly close to the wood. Lastly, square up the table top to the blade...and hte fense( if you use one) to the blade and table top. Before starting up rotate the wheel by hand to make sure everything is rotating smoothly. If you can do all of the above on your new machine you'll be getting there.
   Without knowing the brand it'll be difficult to advise you on how to correct any of alignments issues you may confront.PS. don't waste any money on blades till you know this machine can work...

   Edited 10/6/2005 8:05 pm ET by BG

1. 
   Yogi | Oct 07, 2005 05:51am | #5

   BG-  Thank you, and that'll keep me busy-  Just the stuff I need to know-  I saw the cool blocks, one side in touch, not the other-  Also, some of the twisting I mentioned was probably due to the fact that I'd not reduced the height of the guide to just above the wood-  I'll check the co-plane, and maybe tension a little-  Dunno if the table is squareable, but I'll see to it-  And no, thank you, I won't buy any blades til I'm confident in the saw and what I learn- 

2. 
   dirtstirrer | Oct 07, 2005 04:30am | #4

   Hi Yogi,  BG posted some good info to help you tune up your saw.  To help ID the saw, some measurments will help.  If the motor has a tag on it, HP, brand of motor, etc. where it was made, would be helpfull.  Also the distance from the blade to the inside of the saws frame, and the diameter of the wheels.  I'm assuming two wheels, some had three, which is yours?  As for the table, it completely depends on what saw you've got, as well as what you want to do with it.  It would be really helpfull if we could ID it.

    Steve

1. 
   Yogi | Oct 07, 2005 05:56am | #6

   The motor for this saw is, I think, a replacement-  Hangs on the drive belt, like a contractor's saw, in an old and rickety cabinet-  Hafta do something with that, as the belt is fighting the pulley at it's present angle of dangle-  I'll count the wheels (three I think) and take the measurements you suggest & get them back to you-  Thanks for your and BG's help-

2. 
   Yogi | Oct 08, 2005 03:15am | #7

   Steve-  Here's the info you referred to:  There are three wheels, 5 3/4" dia., and the distance from the blade to the inside of the saw's frame is 10"-  Overall, the saw is 21" front to back, and 21" high-  The only place I've not looked for a name is on the underside of the base, which is mounted to the cabinet-  There's no name elsewhere, nor on the underside of the removable side plate-  That's probably not much help even for guys like you-

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Oct 08, 2005 05:07am | #8

   Is this like your saw?  This is a Sears model.  1/6th hp, 27 lbs., three wheel.  These type of saws can have trouble putting much tension on the blade, so that will limit you to smaller blades.  1/8" or so I'd imagine would be just fine.  Follow BG's recommendations for a tune up, and you'll be close.  There was an article in a past FWW by Michael Fortune that was a really good rundown of a tune up.  I'll try to find the correct magazine.  A Google for Mark Dugunski will also bring up some good info.  I think I've got his first name correct.  I'm not familier with these saws really, so I can't give you exact info on the adjustment features, but you should have tension, and adjustable guides of some sort.  Looks like a decent saw for the money, have fun!  Hope I was helpful, I'm about as far from a bandsaw guru as possible. 

   P.S., just for kicks I also posted a photo of a saw similar to my Oliver saw.  Mines a model 16 though, more primitave looking, same size.

    

    Steve

   
2. 
   Yogi | Oct 08, 2005 09:19am | #9

   The Sears is nothing like what I have-  Mine's a saw with a drive pulley extending from the side of the base-  You hang whatever motor (I guess) you have below it on a hinged mount that tensions the drive belt with the weight of the motor-  As for the Oliver, it looks capable, though a little light for hobby work-  I have a bunch of old FWW mags, will see if I can get a reference for the article by Fortune-  Will also Google Mark Dugunski-  Thanks very much for the info-

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 08, 2005 09:31pm | #10

   Where would a guy like me learn about a saw like this one?

   If it works for you why worry.. Just chalk it up to one of life's Mysterious!