Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 28, 2004 06:53pm | #1

   Dave,

   That's not a mistake: it's a learning experience.

   A few options spring to mind:

   1.  Faux finish to blend in the damaged area with its surroundings;

   2.  Camouflage the damage under an opaque finish instead of using an oil finish;

   3.  Veneer patch;

   4.  Re-veneer the entire panel;

   5.  Firewood.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

2. 
   darbywoods | Aug 28, 2004 07:03pm | #2

   walnut dye may work put in shellac and see on a test

   David

3. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 28, 2004 07:07pm | #3

   If you have any aniline dyes, I would at least try futzing around to see if you can find a combination that will stain the substrate to match the walnut. Once stained, you can use a very dark dye and an artist's bruch (or a tooth pick) to apply grain marks.

   You could also use toners and glazes, but unless you have these materials (and some experience in using them), it is probably more hassle than you want to undertake -- although it would be the best way to get a near perfect color match.

4. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Aug 28, 2004 07:10pm | #4

   Hi Dave,

   Bummer of a "learning experience".

   Stain didn't work but one of the dyes might..maybe, as suggested, mixed in shellac, etc.

   I'd go over to http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and ask Jeff Jewitt..he's got good knowledge, he knows products..particularly the ones he makes and sells....  He's helped me..and, no, I don't work for him..smile.

   Good luck!

   lp

5. 
   Andrew | Aug 28, 2004 07:59pm | #5

   If you have some walnut veneer you can patch it. You do this by creating a shallow depression and then glueing the veneer patch in place, then you carefully sand it flush feather the edges into the rest of the panel. Depending on how well you can match the veneer your repair can be almost invisible. This trick has saved my a$$ a few times before.

   Andrew 

6. 
   sawdustmaker | Aug 28, 2004 08:57pm | #6

   I'm with Jazzdog and Nikkiwood, at least try to mask it. I normally use Blendal mixed with alcohol and graining liquid. The true color won't show until you hit it with some sanding sealer or lacquer. I normally do this after staining the surrounding wood, so you know what to shoot for. A fine artist's brush will add your grain.

1. 
   Dave45 | Aug 28, 2004 11:57pm | #7

   Thanks to all for the responses. 

   I need to look into ways to disguise these "learning experiences", but the delivery schedule won't allow time for experimentation right now.  This case is one of five walnut cases I'm making and I need to put on the first coat of tung oil on Monday.  Guess I'll make a new case this evening - and stay focused when I sand it. - lol

1. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 29, 2004 12:49am | #8

   Have you tried the pencil mark trick?

1. 
   Dave45 | Aug 30, 2004 01:59am | #9

   I guess I don't know that one - lol

1. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 30, 2004 05:38pm | #10

   THE PENCIL TRICK ------

   When you must sand really thin veneers, simply use a pencil to lightly scribble lines across the surface. when sanding, stop instantly when the pencil marks disappear.

   The trick works especially well when you have applied edging to plywood. Draw a series of lines across the edging and the plywood.

2. 
   Dave45 | Aug 31, 2004 02:06am | #11

   Oh, THAT pencil trick - lol  I've done that before and it works great. 

   This boo-boo resulted from a slip of the hand when I lifted the sander.  The cell phone rang and I was distracted for a split second and that's all it took.

   Since I didn't have time to experiiment with dyes, etc, I made another case and was almost paranoid when I sanded it.  No mistakes this time and the order will ship on schedule.

   I'm going to look into dyes though.  These thin veneered plywoods have been a PITA for a lot of years now.

3. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Aug 31, 2004 04:58am | #12

   Find a supplier of plywood that stocks thicker veneers.  It will take some research, but they are out there.  You may pay a tad more for material, but it is worth it.

4. 
   BarryR | Sep 01, 2004 05:00am | #13

   Since ply is sanded to 180 grit, I don't see any reason to use a power sander of any type on it.  I hand sand with 180 before I apply a finish.

5. 
   MarkRoderick | Sep 01, 2004 10:33pm | #14

   Agreed. Ever look at the thickness of the veneer of the regular plywood? It's microscopic, almost. You can just about break through by touching it. I wonder how in the world they slice it so thin.

6. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 02, 2004 01:30am | #15

   Its not so much the slicing, but when they sand it smooth that they get it that thin.  I recently went through a batch of cherry veneer MDF A_A core, acutally a whole unit to get 12 sheets that had the same grain pattern to get uniform finish characteristics.  The rep from the mfg said that they are changing the way they are slicing the veneers to get more yield.  Then they faxed me a 4 page spec on how to avoid blotching with the new slicing....  Lucky us......