Replies

1. 
   dgreen | Nov 08, 2008 03:42am | #1

   I've had very good results with this one.

    

    

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   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
   ~ Denis Diderot

2. 
   kwd61862 | Nov 08, 2008 03:43am | #2

   Check out penn state industries. They have 110v and 220v remote units.

3. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 08, 2008 03:49am | #3

   Dear OR,
   I have used the "Long Ranger 3" with very good results:

   http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LR220-3-Ranger-Collector/dp/B00004S9AG/ref=pd_cp_hi_0/179-0136575-1078828?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_r=1QD9C51TEHB3ZD7J3R97&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_i=B00012Y74C

   John

4. 
   kreuzie | Nov 08, 2008 05:19am | #4

   Ditto the Long Ranger. It works at well over 100 feet from the machine.

   kreuzie

1. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 08, 2008 05:22am | #5

   You know, that's a good point. My shop is a good 100' or so from my house. I have forgotten to take the remote off of my belt sometimes and accidently turned on the DC, from inside my house. Good system.Best,John

1. 
   AZMO | Nov 08, 2008 06:26am | #6

   It is worse than hitting the panic button on my toyota remote entry system! Dido the Long Ranger works. Mine hangs in the middle of the shop on velcro, seem to mislay it other wise, or turn it on and off in my apron.                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

5. 
   bones | Nov 08, 2008 07:57pm | #7

   I've used the one from wood craft for several years now with flawless service.  I have an extra remote. It's the size of a key fob like your car keys.  I clip one to the TS and one to the BS and hit the button when I need it.  Here's the link.  Scroll down, there are two different part numbers for the 110 .vs. 220. 

   http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5117

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
6. 
   northhouguy | Nov 08, 2008 10:18pm | #8

   Make sure the switch is rated for the correct voltage and horsepower... -> NOT amps, horsepower.

   Because an inductive load, (a motor), is more difficult to switch than a resistive load, (an incandescent light bulb), you must rate the switch for motor horsepower.

   I see a lot of cheap devices for sale that claim to switch motors, but have only ampere ratings.  Wether this is ignorance or snake oil on the seller's part I can't say.

   Also I would never buy any electrical device that wasn't UL or CSA listed.  These certifications don't mean you are buying a quality product, but at least the device has passed MINIMUM standards.

   Good Luck,

   Fred

    

7. 
   oicoicoic | Nov 09, 2008 07:32pm | #9

   Thank you everyone.
   I've decided on the "Long Ranger 3"

   Since it can handle up to 3.5 HP motors

   Again, thanks for the detailed responses