Replies

1. 
   BG | Sep 11, 2005 11:39pm | #1

   Loosejoints,
   It appears to me the top is a frame and panel construction. My guess is the cove started out as solid piece of 12/4 stock and then a cove on one side. Attaching the top I might glue the top in front to the apron/molding and figure 8 the back side.

2. 
   ring | Sep 12, 2005 02:33am | #2

   loosejoints,

   Of course this is conjecture without seeing underneath the table, but I agree that the top is a frame of 8/4 stock that had the cove routed after the top was made.  I'd be surprised if the "panel" of the top was more than 3/4" thick.   The legs are simply glued and screwed inside the corners (probably with a shoulder made on 2 sides of each leg).  The bottom stretchers and shelf are enough to stabilize the inherent weakness of these simple joints.  If the table pictured is a mass-produced item you might actually find metal brackets attaching the legs into the corners under the top.  No matter... it shouldn't be a problem to do as I described.

   DR

3. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2005 07:47pm | #3

   I get to spend time in the shop and we save money.

   LOL.. LOL...

   Save money.. Hardly.. But you get what you made for sure!

   EDIT.. I forgot NICE table..

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/12/2005 12:48 pm ET by WillGeorge

4. 
   notDusty | Sep 12, 2005 10:22pm | #4

        loosejoints ,

                             A factory made table of this type would as ring said , most likely have a metal corner bracket that gets screwed into the legs and often times the inside of the apron may have kerfs cut in it to accept the metal bracket . You could easily make some form of cross corner bracket out of wood .

                    good   luck             dusty

5. 
   MatthewSchenker | Sep 15, 2005 05:52pm | #5

   loosejoints,
   You wrote this:
   "She gets the furniture she wants, I get to spend time in the shop and we save money."

   My friend, you are leaving out the most important part of the bargain. I'm sure you and your wife fully understand that you will need some great new tools to create this much-desired furniture!!!!

   If you want suggestions, let me know...

   
   

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   Edited 9/15/2005 10:53 am ET by MatthewSchenker

6. 
   EarlKelly | Sep 15, 2005 07:36pm | #6

   It appears that the cove is an applied molding, it has no structural attachment to the top, just glued and pinned or screwed. The actual top is more than likely 3/4" thick, and the framework supporting the legs is hidden from view. I would make up a roughly, 2"x1" rails and join to the legs with dovetails. This way the base and legs are separate from the top, use countersunk screws to fasten top to the base.

   The top looks like frame and panel const. You could also make up a solid slab top, just allow for movement when attaching to the base, and cove.

   Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
7. 
   sapwood | Sep 15, 2005 08:06pm | #7

   The piece depicted seems to me to appear to have a frame and panel top. The reality could be anything but that.So I would advise you to stop trying to analyze how the piece in the photo was made and instead decide how you want to make a similiar piece. Earl Kelly has a good idea for the top attachment but it needn't be that elaborate. That is, the metal attachment plate idea will work....it just isn't very "nice." Another joint problem is the attachment of the lower shelf. There isn't much wood touching wood there. Again, it will depend on some choices you make: frame and panel, veneer over mdf, plank construction....

8. 
   Ricks503 | Sep 15, 2005 11:36pm | #8

   It COULD be that there is a short apron inset into to the legs, flush with the outer edges and then has braces on the inside and then the cove moulding is covering it up on the outside.  Attached is a quick and dirty sketch of what I mean

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   Ricks503 | Sep 15, 2005 11:50pm | #9

   trying attach again

    1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

   
1. 
   rich1107 | Sep 17, 2005 07:22am | #10

   Is it possible that there are tenons on the top of the legs that fit into mortices cut into the bottom of the tabletop?  I guess the pressence of the shelf and the stability it would add made me think of asking this.

2. 
   loosejoints | Sep 17, 2005 03:54pm | #11

   This is the kind of thing that makes me smile.   I run into a problem, post a question in this forum and get several replies with differing approaches to solving the problem.  I haven't yet decided which solutions to included in the final design, but I feel confident that all will turn out well.   Thanks to all who have taken the time to help me out.

    

   Roger

1. 
   Pondfish | Sep 17, 2005 04:05pm | #12

   Roger -

   thanks for starting a good post.  I'm late to the discussion, but I'll add my $0.02 anyway.  The top and shelf are both frame and panel.  The top/leg joint isn't going to be as touchy as the shelf/leg joint; you could even screw the legs to the top frame if you wanted.  Whatever you do, make it strong: I would glue the legs into the corners even though it's a cross grain direction.

   The shelf/leg joint is critical because the table rigidity will derive a lot from this joint. As a previous poster mentioned, it's a small overlap.  A well fitted and proportioned M/T joint would work, but a metal L brace would last longer.  No dancing on top of this table, though...

   PRecommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005