Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 01, 2008 05:25pm | #1

      bob ,

              The art of spreading glue is something that just takes practice. Try only using glue on one side or edge or a very small thin streak of glue near the inside corner of the rope mold.

          Make a few samples until you get the feel , perhaps you can try a new tip on your glue bottle with a smaller then usual opening to limit the amount of glue coming out .

       Maybe use a hand plane and knock the inside corner off somewhat and place the glue there .

           good  luck        dusty

1. 
   bob k | Jun 01, 2008 06:25pm | #2

   Thanks, Dusty. Just for my information, I have heard that hide glue will not show as a blotch under a clear finish, the way yellow glue will. Do you know if this is true? And are there any other types of glue that have this property? I don't own a glue pot.Bob

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 01, 2008 06:55pm | #3

     bob,

            Sorry , but my experience with hyde glue is limited , I really don'y use it.

         There is no reason your normal ( titebond ) or other aliphatic resin glue should not be used in this application . Plan on it not squeezing out , as I suggested practice a bit before the real deal .

              may the wood lords be with you

                         dusty

1. 
   bob k | Jun 01, 2008 07:29pm | #5

   Dusty: I do have a considerable amount of experience being careful with applying glue, and will follow your advice. It won't take much to keep the rope molding from falling off, and with the headless pins, I'm sure it will be fine. Thanks.bob

2. 
   thumbnailed | Jun 01, 2008 06:59pm | #4

   One thing many people fail to consider is pre-finising elements before assembly. With a coat of clear finish on, glue just wipes off with a damp rag, with no chance of staining. Of course, mating surfaces have to be masked, but It's less work than glue cleanup, and much safer. Many pieces are easier to finish in sections as well, such as tops separate from aprons, and aprons separate from legs, without 90 degree angles to obstruct brushing or sanding 

1. 
   bob k | Jun 01, 2008 07:36pm | #6

   Thanks for the post. I often finish parts prior to assembly, too, but in this case I don't see how I could pre-finish the field that the rope molding will be applied to without prohibiting the glue from sticking at all. Or are you suggesting that I pre-finish the molding and just tack it on without glue? I would be concerned that the molding would not stay flush at all points, unless I used lots of pins.Bob

1. 
   thumbnailed | Jun 01, 2008 11:37pm | #8

   Sorry, Bob, I didn't know you were applying the rope molding to a surface area, I was thinking of an edge on a top or some such. Nevertheless, since you still have to lay out where the molding is going, you can lay out masking tape narrower than your molding. After the first clear coat, you can apply the molding, and then put on as many finish coats as you please. Obviously you can also practice putting down a controlled small bead of glue and removing any small bleedout after it tacks up with a chisel or scraper. In the long run, learning the skill of glue controll will save you more time, but don't try to learn it in the middle of an important project. 

2. 
   mufti | Jun 01, 2008 08:25pm | #7

               Bob, I have attached narrow moldings by scoring the back along the length with a stanley blade and then using little glue and rubbing the joint until the glue grabs. I used masking tape at that point to keep all in position and there was no squeeze out, any excess having I hope gone in the knife grooves.

3. 
   gofigure57 | Jun 02, 2008 04:38pm | #9

   32 gauge ,  Who makes that?

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 02, 2008 04:45pm | #10

   "32 gauge ,  Who makes that?"

   Dyslexia Dool & Tie Co.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   bob k | Jun 02, 2008 05:43pm | #11

   oops...bk

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 02, 2008 05:46pm | #12

   Seems I shop there myself more and more lately! ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA