Replies

1. 
   ring | Jun 21, 2008 10:25am | #1

   Finish your hardwood panel on the back side before you attach it. The easiest attachment is screws through the PB carcase - fixed along the front edge and in elongated slots to allow movement of the panel at the rear. If you can allow some space between the carcase wall and the panel, then it allows more elegant attachment such as sliding dovetail cleats.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   Jerry18 | Jun 21, 2008 01:40pm | #2

   Yes, I definitely will finish the rear and exposed bottom edge of the panel. I assume that will help limit movement.I can't allow for any space between the carcase side and the panel, so sliding dovetails are out. Also, the rear edge of the panel will be scribed to the wall that the cabinet is installed on, so the rear edge will essentially be fixed.If I understand your intention, I could fix the rear edge of the panel from the inside with screws, but the front edge would be screwed with slots or maybe over sized holes in the PB?Jerry

1. 
   ring | Jun 21, 2008 03:27pm | #3

   Yes, that would be the same, although usually it's the rear edge that's less important for obvious reasons.  If the caninet has a door you would want the end panel to stay flush behind the closed door for instance.  You might be able to put a small molding strip attached to the rear wall which would hide any movement of the panel as it pulled away from the wall.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   Jerry18 | Jun 22, 2008 07:01am | #7

   I see your point about letting the rear edge move. That would mean leaving a gap at the wall that I'd rather not have to cover with molding. How accurately could I predict the amount of movement?

1. 
   ring | Jun 22, 2008 04:14pm | #10

   In theory you can calculate the movement quite accurately, but it depends on any number of factors - wood species, QS or flatsawn, current MC, lowest expected MC in the future. In fact it's academic, and a "guestimate" is good enough. Without knowing anything about the details, I'd say 1/4" to 3/8" will cover the possible gap.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

2. 
   Jerry18 | Jun 22, 2008 04:37pm | #11

   Wow! That's a lot more movement than I would have guessed.FWIW: It's flatsawn wenge in a mostly climate controlled home, but no way to measure current MC.

2. 
   oldusty | Jun 22, 2008 12:30am | #4

     Jerry ,

             Ring has given you about the best way to handle a solid end panel , personally your solid end is a risky way to go , wood will move in a 22" width .

      Could you possibly use a veneered panel as in plywood or other , I typically make a frame and panel end and screw it on from the inside of the cabinet , I realize the F & P end may not jive with the style so that is why I suggest a veneer panel end regardless of thickness , you could glue it on or use contact cement.

         good   luck           dusty

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   Jerry18 | Jun 22, 2008 07:08am | #8

   Unfortunately the solid panel is already made. I probably could have thought this through a little better! A veneered panel would have worked, but at this point, I need to get this done. I may just have to seal all sides and hope for the best. To make matters worse, this is for a bathroom vanity.

3. 
   BrianDerr | Jun 22, 2008 06:07am | #5

   The only time I've done this is with a frame and panel end, and glued and nailed the frame only so the panels were still free. I wouldn't want to try it with solid wood, though I'm sure there's a way. Maybe a decorative 'control joint' like with concrete?

   Brian

4. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jun 22, 2008 06:20am | #6

   I hope you have more than three pieces of 7"X26" hardwood.  I don't think your pieces are going to make a total of 22".

1. 
   Jerry18 | Jun 22, 2008 07:13am | #9

   The tilde In front of the 7" (~7") was supposed to mean that it is an approximation. I know it's not the correct symbol, but it's a close approximation.;-)

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jun 23, 2008 02:41am | #12

   "Tilde"  I have used that symbol many times through the years but don't remember ever having a name for it except the "approximate sign."  I'll have to remember that one.  And yes, I did miss that when I read your post.  Sorry.