Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 06, 2009 03:20pm | #1

   French cleat screwed to structural members in the wall is my preferred method for heavy cabs. Of course, you need to design the cab so the cab portion of the cleat is strong as well. Does no good to have a bombproof cleat on the wall if the cab side is just tacked in to 1/4" ply. ;-)

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

1. 
   chaim | May 06, 2009 05:15pm | #2

   Thanks, that's true! the cabinet will be constructed from 3/4" ply. the back will be of 1/2" ply so It'll be plenty strong!

   My only hesitation with french cleats is how to round the corner so both sides are equally level I've found these situations kind of tricky for me so I tend to avoid them.

   Chaim 

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 06, 2009 05:19pm | #3

   "My only hesitation with french cleats is how to round the corner so both sides are equally level"

   I use a rotary laser level for this. Careful use of a water level would work as well, just a bit more fussing.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   saschafer | May 06, 2009 05:23pm | #4

   A laser level works well for going around corners.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   chaim | May 06, 2009 08:46pm | #8

   Thanks Steve / Mike

   I don't do enough installation work to make a laser purchase worth my while!

   It would be nice to own one though for those occasions when it could speed up or ease installations!

   Chaim 

3. 
   RalphBarker | May 06, 2009 05:28pm | #5

   FWIW, I'd attach the cabinet only to the longer of the two walls. If that wall is out of plumb, you might need to size the thickness of the cabinet half of the cleat to compensate, then trim to both walls with molding (or, build the cabinet with enough back space that it can be trimmed to the wall surface).

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 06, 2009 05:50pm | #6

   You have 1/2" plywood for the back.   Extend that above the top of the cabinet top by 3/4" or so.   Run screws through it into studs.    There will be studs forming the interior corner of the wall, so if you want you can extend the back plywood only in that area.   Putting the screws above the cabinet proper means you don't have screw heads visible inside the cabinet.  Not using cleats saves the interior depth that cleats demand.

1. 
   chaim | May 06, 2009 08:26pm | #7

   That's exactly the kind of idea I'm looking for.

    I could add a molding around the upper edge to help hide the elongated back from a distance, but the cab is going to be a more modern frameless design!

   Thanks Jamie, keep those ideas coming evryone!

   Chaim 

1. 
   sapwood | May 07, 2009 12:05am | #9

   Good grief, what a lot of bother has been suggested! Simply run screws through the 1/2" back into the framing members. Have a helper hold it into the corner in position while you mark the wall for the screw pilot holes. Then there's no need to transfer anything around the corner. Use flat head stainless steel or brass, depending on wood color, screws. They'll look very nice and won't ever be noticed anyway behind the towels.

1. 
   dynamwebz | May 07, 2009 12:42am | #10

   "Simply run screws through the 1/2" back into the framing members."

   That might hold. Might not. Unles you use a lot of them. And the customer might think it looks cheap. And the screws could tear the plywood fibers giving a shabby look.

   My parents had a cabinet in their kitchen hanging from a wall. It stayed there for years until my mother placed some heavy objects into the cabinet. It then pulled away from the wall and I had to repair it.

   You do not give cabinet the dinensions. But if it's on the large size, I would do this.

   Cut some 1/2" thick hardwood cleats and glue them to the inside of the cabinets. Top and bottom. Drill holes in the cleats and countersink. Then get some Countersunk washers from someplace like Lee Valley and place in the countersink. Then screw into pre-drilled holes in the tile and into studs. Use brass wood screws and do not overtighten or they will snap. The countersunk washers give a clean look and prevent the screws from splitting the wood cleats.

   Since it's a corner cabinet, you may not be able to reach the second stud in the 2 walls. If this is the case, you can use 3 or 4 short inner corner cleats.

   But in any case, make sure the plywood back is securly fastened to the sides or the weight could pull the back out of the cabinet causing a disaster.

3. 
   oldusty | May 07, 2009 06:48am | #11

       Hi Chaim ,

              I build units like this with a 3/4" back , makes much more sense unless you add nailers or screw rails behind or in front of the back to increase the thickness .

         We never use 1/2" screw rails to secure any cabinets to walls .

          The 1/2" backs will work , especially if you use a fastener with a head suited for the task . The cost difference is slight , for the additional integrity I use 3/4" , just my 2 cents .

              regards      dusty , boxmaker

4. 
   jeffs | May 07, 2009 07:50am | #12

   Chaim

   you received several good ideas. If you subscribe to the print (or online) version of FWW then #201 had an article on this very issue. Most of the solutions offered here were covered in that article- as were some additional options.

    

   Jeff

5. 
   cowtown | May 07, 2009 10:27am | #13

   oh you got lots of ideas from others.....

    

   But nary a one mentioned that typically a drywall corner has plaster build up, and typically up to 1/8" right at the corner, tapering out to zero over three inches.

   That's assuming the board was applied to square walls.

   Lots of corner cabinets have a 45 degree corner on them to minimize this .

   That means that if it's a cabinet less than 16" wide, and if you build yer cabinet with the 45 degree corner, you ain't gonna hit a stud. If that's the case, NONE of the suggested methods will provide any substantive support. Not french cleats, not the 1/2" extension.

   You may be able to cut the drywall behind where the cabinets go and install blocking to screw to.

   You may plan to build your cabinets with a 90 degree angle at the back, but have the gables 1/8" or 3/16 pround of the back, so even when the plaster build up is taken into account, the gables will be pulled tight to the wall, and you can still screw into the studs in the corner.

   HAVE FUN.

   Eric

    

6. 
   Hastings | May 07, 2009 01:33pm | #14

   I have recently hung wall cabinets using these aluminum french cleats:

   http://www.monarchmetal.com/pages/panelclip.html

   You can buy it in lengths and make your own clips. It custs easily on a chop saw and drill press for holes. It leaves a 1/4" space on the back of the cabinet. You may have to shim the wall piece if the wall is uneven.

   Hastings