Scoured the forum for a “like” problem. I have a large bookshelf built in and am converting it to an entertainment center. The wood used – for the large pieces, face frames, doors and shelves is ash (deep dark grain), it is stained and covered with varnish. The converted entertainment center will be painted. I am replacing many components with birch ply and birch solid wood (for ease of painting) to accommodate my new needs.
I need recommendations: what type of stripper to use for the varnish? Recommend a grain filler for the ash, prior to priming. Recommend a sturdy primer and paint for the entertainment center (my son will be banging around the center to play Xbox….you know the drill) I cant afford a “soft paint finish” !! I do have a hvlp or am willing to use brush.
Thanx in advance….Willy
Replies
willy,
I wouldn't strip the varnish at all. Coat it with shellac, fill the grain, coat with shellac again then paint.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
If you don't strip you would have to fill the grain with shellac--many coats, sanded to the point of cut through. Shellac would adhere to the varnish, assuming the varnish is in sound condition--no flaking or crazing. It would take many coats to accomplish this since shellac has relatively low solids, but it could be done.
You could not use a commercial pore filler without strippping. The varnish, and any added shellac would have left the sides of the pores too smooth to give good adhesion.
The most effective strippers are those based on methylene chloride. The draw back is that these require SERIOUS ventilation and breathing protection, unless you are in a part of the country where you can work comfortably outdoors.
For paint, the most durable would be a good oil based enamel. Sherwin Williams Pro Classic is one. But, you could get adequate protection from a good waterborne acyrilic. Products such as Target USL are formulated for spraying and are a good consistency for HVLP spraying right out of the can. They are available tinted, both in standard colors, or as custom colors. See for example Jeff Jewitts http://www.homesteadfinishing.com I would only put this over stripped surfaces, with only a thin barrier coat of dewaxed shellac to separate the two chemistries.
Edited 1/17/2009 11:12 pm ET by SteveSchoene
Edited 1/17/2009 11:14 pm ET by SteveSchoene
Is the grain so "unattractive" that it has to be filled?
I'm with Gretchen. You are asking for a ton of work trying to fill the pores. Use it as a design element and prime/paint right over it. I just painted an ash door at work with jet black laquer and it looks killer. Using it for a sample to show customers.
Lee
I would even suggest using a paint "glaze" and not solid paint--pickled look.Gretchen
I'm with salamfam -- don't bother stripping this.
Clean it well with lacquer thinner on a rag, to asure that any polish or wax is gone. Then use a either shellac or a really good primer.
If you choose shellac, Zinsser has a white-pigmented version that is generally available in home centers.
If you want to use a primer, I would recommend an oil based primer -- brush marks disappear better.
And if the open grain hasn't been filled with the first coat of either, then lightly sand and do another coat.
Topcoat with the paint of your choice. (But my choice would be alkyd/oil enamel.)
Thanks for all your replies, while waiting for a host of replies, I have been experimenting with a shelf taken from my bookshelf. Sanded down the varnish, used a plaster of paris paste to wipe with rag to fill pores, wiped when near dry, sanded with 220, primed x2 with sanding in between and top coated with an acrylic... waiting for results. I need a smooth finish when done so I wont be doing a grain finish on this project..I do agree with replies that the texture of the grain would be an eye catcher on a project. Been reading up on a "Cabinet Coat" paint-might also be an option for me. Thanx for all the options.
Regards Willy
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