Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 18, 2007 05:36pm | #1

   I use my CAD program to draw the arch(es) to full scale then print them out.  The printouts are glued to 1/4" plywood and I rough cut the shape(s) on the bandsaw.  I use my oscillating spindle sander and hand sanding to make my template(s).

   The big trick with arches is keeping everything symmetrical so I draw half of the profile then use the mirror command to finish it.

   It's time consuming, so I charge quite a bit more for arched doors.

   This bathroom cabinet had raised panels for the doors.  The false drawer front profile was routed into a solid piece.  The closet door profiles copied the profile of the bedroom doors.  I took several measurements of the door profiles then drew my profiles proportional to them.

   
1. 
   dlb | Sep 20, 2007 04:10am | #4

   Thanks for the reply. I have a dumb question: Do I need to make a template for each different  (in size) door that I need to make?

   Thanks,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 20, 2007 04:54am | #5

   'Fraid so. - lol

   Yeah, it's a bit of a PITA, but nothing else seems to work as well.  I once tried re-using an old template that was ~1/2" narrower than I needed but it just looked wrong.

1. 
   WoodShopGuy | Sep 20, 2007 05:06am | #6

   What Dave said. Really is the luck of the draw. You could use the same template and everything could be OK for decades.On the other hand, on the day you installed, some eagle eye might come in and say, "Hey, how come . . . ."

2. 
   dlb | Sep 21, 2007 01:46pm | #7

   Now, when I route the panel (w/ the template attached) I would assume that I must route it in 1 pass. In other words, I can't gradually remove material until I get to the shape of the template, correct?

   Thanks,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 21, 2007 04:36pm | #8

   If you're asking about a raised panel, I don't do them with a router and template.  I just use the templates to cut the shape of the curve on the bandsaw - close to the final line.  Then, I sand the curve to the line leaving a smooth edge. 

   I raise the panels with a raised panel cutter in my shaper.   

2. 
   dlb | Sep 21, 2007 10:38pm | #9

   "I raise the panels with a raised panel cutter in my shaper. "

   Agreed. Let me rephrase my question. When I make raised panel doors I make them in 3 passes w/ each pass taking off more stock. On the 3rd pass the panel is ready to be installed into the rails and stiles.

   It seems to me that if you are using a template to make a raised panel then the option of gradually removing stock is eliminated. So, can the panel be cut in one pass?

   Thanks,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

3. 
   Dave45 | Sep 22, 2007 04:27pm | #10

   If your panel cutting bit has an integral backcutter, using a template will probably become a real hassle.  You would need a separate template for each pass and would have to change templates after each one.  It's almost guaranteed that you would eventually wreck a panel because the new template was positioned slightly "off".

   If this is your situation, look into getting a couple of larger guide bearings for your panel cutter.  I think that this would allow you to set your template, then control your cut by changing guide bearings - if you can change bearings without changing the cut depth of the router.

4. 
   dlb | Sep 22, 2007 04:36pm | #11

   Brilliant idea!!

   Thanks,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

5. 
   Dave45 | Sep 22, 2007 08:15pm | #12

   But, of course. - lol

   Actually it's not all that unique.  You can buy router bit sets with extra guide bearings which allow you to alter the profile by changing the bearing (e.g. round over to bead, etc).

   My suggestion uses the same principle, but would let you "sneak up" on your final pass without having to make multiple templates and locate each one precisely on your panel.

   P.S.  If you get a chance, please let me wife and kids know about my "brilliance".  THEY seem to think I'm in constant need of supervision. - lol

6. 
   Joe | Sep 23, 2007 03:36am | #13

   dlb,I used to make a fair amount of arch top doors. Take a look. . .
   http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/Arch_Top_Doors/archtop_doors.htmlhttp://www.josephfusco.org

2. 
   WoodShopGuy | Sep 20, 2007 12:49am | #2

   Am an old guy, lovely lady, so do it the old way -- large (24 X 36) graph paper and French curves.

   Actually is quite fast, fun, and purely visual with no limits – unless you want to introduce numbers.

   I have a large aluminum curve that is numbered on both sides, which makes accurate flipping (on the graph paper) much easier. You can use a pounce wheel and masons' chalk to transfer to your wood if you don't want to cut up your paper template.

   Cheers!

   Smilin Bob

3. 
   danmart | Sep 20, 2007 01:18am | #3

   I have an order for arched raised panel doors and was wonder how y'all out there make them.  I have seen various templates but the customer wants a style that I can not find and which also, I suppose, is propietary to the door manufacture. So, how then should I tackle this issue?

   Are you asking about the stiles and rails or the raised panel. I saw another response but I don't think he addressed the panel?? It looks like they are flat panels.

   If you want some idea on the raised panel for an arched rail, look up Lonnie Birds Tombstone doors. This might give you some ideas.

4. 
   RogerEverett | Sep 23, 2007 05:47am | #14

   In reading the posts on this, something seems to be mixed up a bit. The templates are used to flush cut the shape of the panels and rails, not leaving them on while machining the profile.

   In practice, I, double face tape the template to the stock, band saw it 1/8 or so proud, then route it with a flush bit to template. Set template aside, and now you route the profile of panel or the sticking on the rail. When I make templates, I make them a little wider and draw a center line down them to locate on a center line I draw on RP stock.

    Now if you have different width doors you need different sized templates. I don't worry about it if say I have some 15" wide doors and a couple 14's, but if it's a couple 12", you need other templates. When making templates remember that the RP template will be a slightly different rad. ( larger ) then the rail temp., in that the panel is in the grove of the sticking cut 3/8 or 7/16", so panel rad. needs to be bigger to allow for this. If say your 15" door layout ( I always do a full sized layout on a pc. of ply to refine measurments ) has a rail that is 2" wide at center and 3" w at ends for the given rad., then the 12" doors rail will also be 2"c and 3" on ends, so you rad. will be tighter and panel template made to accordingly.

   As far as stepping into for a 3 cut on the panel, my panel bits aren't the undercut type so it's just a matter of raising the bit up in 3 steps, the final being just a shave for a smooth finish ( bearing in mind the fence is back a bit to allow for curving around the panel ). If you have undercut toolling, you can make a wide V shaped adjustable fence and use it to step into the curve part, but then you're switch back to a straight for the straight cuts, sounds like a PITA to me, you might be better off with an undercutter to go once.

   The nice thing about making your own templates is that once you get down the 3/8 to 7/16 diff. in the rail and panel templates, you can move on to things like lazy S RP doors or any number of odd shapes.

   HTH

   Roger

1. 
   dlb | Sep 26, 2007 11:19pm | #15

   Thanks for the reply. I was confused as to the job of the template. Thru your e-mail and others I have come to see it's function. Thanks for the good tips.

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.