Replies

1. 
   matt calnen | Dec 29, 2008 03:23am | #1

   I make these all the time on a 12" woodmaster. It is pretty simple but some things I do to ensure good results are to carefully mill the edges of the molding blank. Its important to have a true radius. The second thing I do is to make a seperate guide system. I take a 11" wide piece of sheet stock and screw the radius fences to it so the molding blank slides easily but not sloppily though it. I place this guide on the bed of the woodmaster and set the knife in the head so it is pretty close to being above the channel of the guide. I now use hand clamps to hold the guide in place and use trial and error to fine tune the right position  of the guide in relation to the cutter. The whole purpose of the guide system is to make those adjustments that are always needed. 

   Another thing you might want to consider is to biscut the ends of you segmented molding if possible. Be careful with the placement so they don't get exposed after milling the blank.

    I always use pinch dogs to glue up me molding blanks, so I usually put them in the back side.

   Hope this helps, any questions, let me know, Matt

1. 
   skycowboypaul | Dec 29, 2008 05:09am | #2

   Thank you Matt.  I have made dozens of bed boards for my Woodmaster and really am quite at ease and proficient with getting the machine to do what I need.  But in the 23 years I've owned my Woodmaster I have never run across the need to make a radius type moulding.  I've always thought it would not be all that difficult and from reading your reply post I feel reassured that I will be able to handle the job.  I wanted to hear from somebody else that they make their own radius guide system.  I didn't want to buy Woodmaster's $279.00 guide system to make one piece of moulding.  Thanks again Matt.

2. 
   skycowboypaul | Jan 07, 2009 03:39am | #3

   Thought I would give you a look at my 1st radius moulding.  It is walnut, 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 96", with the segments biscuited together with Gorilla glue.  I made it on my 12" Woodmaster.  I made my own bed board and guides.  It is a lot of work for one piece of moulding, but the end result makes every minute of my time worth it.  I have no idea how much a piece of moulding like this would cost if I had to go to a cabinet shop and have it custom made.

   
1. 
   matt calnen | Jan 07, 2009 03:55am | #4

   I would guess it would take Six hours labor to make that molding in our shop. The shop I work at bills out $60 per hour plus material and you also might have to pay for a knife if we didn't have it. Nice looking molding to. I never had much luck with gorilla glue and endgrain joints but yours looks pretty darn good. Besides wetting the joint, did you do anything else to it and do your joints "feel" strong? Thanks, Matt

1. 
   skycowboypaul | Jan 07, 2009 06:30am | #5

   I did a practice piece out of white pine about 48" long, made up of 4 segments.  I placed #20 biscuits well below the deepest part of the of the profile.  I dampened everything then covered everything with the Gorilla glue and drew it all together with pinch dogs.  My wife was a GREAT help through out all of this.  I let it dry about 5 hours then started bending and banging the piece until it was full of dents.  I never did break one of the joints loose.  And, the dark color of the Gorilla glue blended right in with the black walnut.  I would use the Gorilla glue again if I get to make another radius moulding.  I had been leery in the past thinking that maybe it was beyond my skill level but I would not hesitate in the future to take on the job.  Thanks for your advice Matt.

   Paul