Replies

1. 
   MarkRD | Jan 31, 2005 03:22pm | #1

   First, plan on more like 450 to 500 lbs (water is 8lbs+ per gallon). The tank probably weighs in at 25 lbs plus the rocks etc.. will get you to 450 - assuming the tank is nearly full of course.

   As far as load, how were you planning to join the legs to the rails?
   Straight legs or tapered?
   Will you have a lower shelf (something near the ground)

   Four legs and rails could suppor the load but I don't think it will stand up to side-to-side load like when one of your kids bumps into the tank.

   A shelf will help substantially, as would diagonal bracing (ugly)

   Mark

1. 
   mtburton | Jan 31, 2005 07:52pm | #4

   Thanks for your reply.

    

   Here is my crazy idea.  I actually want to build the legs to slightly flair out.  The leg will come down straight and start to flair out about 2/3 of the way down.  (not sure yet if this is a good idea)  All of the joinery will be mortise and tenon.  The front strectchers will be arched.  The bottom front stretcher will be arched on both the top and the bottom of the board, and the top front stretcher will be arched on the bottom and straight on the top.  The side stretchers will all be straight or maybe arched on the bottom of the top board.  There will be a shelf on the top and the bottom. The one on top will be 3/4" ply and will sit about 1/2" below the edge of the top stretcher.  The bottom I will probably use 1/2". 

   The top shelf will be sitting prety much on the legs.  As the tank will be siting on the shelf which again will be below the top edge of the rail, sitting directly on the legs.

   Thanks everyone for all the replys

    

   Michael

    

   Edited 1/31/2005 12:20 pm ET by MTBURTON

2. 
   BrentS | Jan 31, 2005 03:49pm | #2

   Hi,

     Mark's closer with the weight,but it's actually going to come in around 550-650 depending on how much rock you use in your decor.If you just use 2" of gravel figure arond 500 lbs.

      I think I can give you very sound advice here as I own a pet store and have build more than 50 stands for clients.

       First and most important is that everything is level so you don't put any stress on your aquarium(beleive me when I tell you they are not designed for it).

       The next thing to understand is that most of the compression weight will be on the ends of the stand.The front and back rails are there for the most part to keep a level surface through out.Definately use at least a water resistent glue if not water proof.

      The best and safest way to go about it for your first stand would be to build your frame and cap it off with a top,this will ensure even weight distribution.

      I'm on here almost everyday, so if you have any questions just leave them here and I'll reply promply.

                                                          Good luck,

                                                                      Brent

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 01, 2005 06:15am | #5

   Brent, your mixture of pet-store-owner and woodworker is intriguing to me.  We have a pet store here on our small island, and I would love to find some retail items I could build for them.  Never thought about aquarium stands (I've always been too lazy to take care of fish.  Horses, cats and dogs, yes, fish and birds, no). 

   Would you be willing to share some info or pictures or both about your stands?  If not publicly, maybe email me.  Whatever you feel like.  Thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   jackplane | Jan 31, 2005 05:45pm | #3

   Most big aquariums sit on metal framework for this reason(weight).

   Still, the average person can be easily supported on a stool constructed of 1/8th inch hickory dowels, believe it or not. It is the racking or twisting motion wherein the problem lies.

   So, I'd build with an x- frame below the tank. Wider apron also promotes strength. It's not the thickness of your lumber but rather the joinery that will determine success or failure.

4. 
   Blueline | Feb 01, 2005 06:55am | #6

        I did the very thing you are doing, first things first. Is it fresh or saltwater? Saltwater being heavier then fresh at about appx: 8.45 lbs per gln. My salt tank is a 125 gln and all total cabinet, fish, water, etc, it comes in at one ton of weight. Most commercial tank cabinets are not metal framed. However, thats not to say that you're not going to find them out there.

        My cabinet is constructed out of solid Honduran mahogany and 13/16 mahogany sheet goods. Linear stability of plywood is incredibly strong, in combination with an internal wood skeleton for added stability and you will be good to go. Use a high quality poly glue for its capacity to ward off the negative effects of a moist environment, good luck.

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/31/2005 10:58 pm ET by Blueline

5. 
   RobbyP | Feb 01, 2005 07:17am | #7

   Hi Michael,

   You have a fun idea but really difficult to pull off.  I would be curious to find out if you are setting up a fresh or salt water tank.  One concern I have is that It will be difficult to shim if the floor is not level.  Even if you compensate for an unleveled floor keep in mind that unless you place the tank next to a load bearing wall the floor may sink under the constant stress and shimming the legs will be difficult to do and not be seen. 

   Also where is all of the filtration equipment going to be kept.  If you are keeping a salt water tank (especially a reef) you will need space for a sump, skimmer, heaters, ballast, chiller(maybe), refugium, etc.  A table will not have any place to hide such items.  Like Brent on the post I have made many aquarium stands and hoods throughout the years and being a salt water reef hobbyist myself has given me quite a lot of experience.  I do wish you luck though and if you do make it please post pictures on the forum.  I would love to see it.  Also if you are setting up a salt water reef tank let me know and maybe we can trade coral frags. :)  I have a 400 gallon reef tank and it is my pride and joy.  The fish keeping hobby is very rewarding and I wish you the best.

   Hope this helps and let me know if I can help further,

   Robby Phelps RP Custom Woodworks

    

1. 
   mtburton | Feb 01, 2005 02:49pm | #8

   Thanks again for all the replies. 

    This is a fresh water tank.  The frame will be a standard mortise and tenon frame with a shelf behind the lower rail.  It will have rail and stile inset doors in front and the filtration equipment will sit on the shelf behind the doors.  I will probably use a cleat to hold both the upper and lower shelves in place.

   The legs will be providing the great majority of the support, although by running a cleat around the upper rails and setting the shelf on top for the tank to sit on I should get a fair amount of support from the entire frame.  I do not want to sit the tank directly on the frame beacuse I do not want to see the bottom edge of the tank.  And I also do not want to run molding around the edges.  I want a cleaner look.  The arched rails and flaired legs will give me a doors that are not your typical square doors, they will be curved at the top, arched at the bottom and one side.  The tank will sit just below the top rail on a 3/4" plywood shelf.

   I will also be putting a cap on it so that will add to the weight also.

   Any opinions on flairing out the legs?  I like the design element but concerned again about strength.

    Michael

    

6. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 02, 2005 06:15am | #9

   I'll stick my two cents in here.. I built one for a 100 gallon SALT WATER tank.. If it's salt water be very careful of what you build. Salt eats up everything.