Replies

1. 
   LarryPile | Jul 30, 2002 05:38pm | #1

   Maybe I don't understand the question, but I've always attached aprons with a M&T joint going into the table leg....strong, fairly easy, etc.

   You could also do a loose tenon, biscuits, dowels, screws...the sky is the limit....  But for strength, I'd go with a standard mortise and tenon joint.

   lp

2. 
   bszydlo | Jul 30, 2002 06:35pm | #2

   Are you referring to mounting the aprons to the legs or to the table top?  If they used pocket holes to mount the aprons to the legs, did they also use pocket holes to mount the aprons to the top?  Bill

1. 
   kenewald | Jul 31, 2002 05:10am | #3

   Sorry folks, I'm was/am talking about mounting the apron to the table top. 

   I'm with you on using a Mortise and Tenon joint between the apron and legs.

   Don't get me wrong, I'm not opposed to pocket holes and screws.  They used pocket holes/screws for almost every unexposed joint.  Perhaps that makes sense if you're on a production line and trying to cut some time and costs .. but I've got time.  I do this to unwind.

   What is a good way to fasten the apron to the table top?

   -Ken

1. 
   quinbychris | Jul 31, 2002 04:35pm | #8

   I usually don't attach the top directly to the apron.  Instead, I cut 1/4 inch dados about 1/4 inch from the top of the aprons and install glue blocks in all four corners.  I then use woodscrews to attach the top directly to the glue blocks.  If you use this method, be sure to elongate the holes in the glue blocks to allow for seasonal movement.  Good luck!

2. 
   kenewald | Jul 31, 2002 05:11am | #4

   Yes and Yes.  I wasn't impressed.

1. 
   LarryPile | Jul 31, 2002 06:00am | #5

   I would think that pocket holes wouldn't allow the top to move with shifting temperature/humidity.

   I've built several tables and always routed or sawed a 3/8" groove around 1/8 - 1/4 from the top, on the inside.  Then use table clips that fit into the groove and are then screwed to the bottom side of the top with short woodscrews.  This allows the top to move freely, yet remain firmly attached to the aprons.

   Usually I just attach the top to the two longest parallel aprons.

   Good luck!

   lp

2. 
   bszydlo | Jul 31, 2002 03:59pm | #7

   I am in the process of building a circular table that expands and have been wondering about the best way to attach the top.  The table design is by C. Beeksvoort and was featured in FWW.  Mr. Beeksvoort drills through the entire apron to attach the fasteners.  I know pocket screws have been mentioned before for smaller tables (such as end tables).  In the latest issue of PWW they make an extension table and attach the top with pocket screws, does anyone have any thoughts or opinions regarding attaching a top to an extension table.  Thanks, Bill

3. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 31, 2002 02:30pm | #6

   I generally rout a series of short grooves in the apron, down about 3/4" from the top, several on the ends, and several (dependeing on length) on the sides.  Then simply cut some small blocks of wood the exact height of the top of the groove, and take a small piece of metal (brass or whatever is laying around), drill a hole in it, and screw it to the block.  The block can be clued to the table top, or the screw can go all the way through, depending on thickness, taste, etc.  Keep the block back a bit on the long grain side to permit the needed movement; they can be tight on the end grain sides.  be sure to orient the grain on the blocks the same as the place where mounted.

4. 
   Elcoholic | Jul 31, 2002 11:18pm | #9

   My boat shaped Koa dining table has curved, laminated aprons.  I didn't want to put holes in the aprons and possibly weaken them, I ruled out buttons for some reason that escapes me now, and frankly, IMO, Metal figure 8's don't have any place in a $18k dining suite that I show to prospective customers.  I was also concerned that the top may want to cup or twist.  What I did was to dovetail (3) 3" crossmembers to serve as battens between the aprons and flush with their tops.  Each crossmember has a centered hole and 2 slots out near the aprons.  (9) 5/16" ss bolts and washers fasten the top which has threaded inserts.  So far so good after 8 months.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne