Replies

1. 
   ring | May 20, 2005 07:33pm | #1

   Not sure your client will accept this way, but technically it will solve the problem:  Make the trim a part of the face frames and not attached to the drawer fronts at all.  If the gap is small it will take a discerning eye to see the difference between the way the drawers are done and the sides. (You are right about the side and back - no difficulties there).  If it were my client I would convince them that this is the proper way to do it.

   DR

1. 
   Jellyrug | May 20, 2005 07:54pm | #2

   That's a good suggestion, but what do you think about the height of those drawers in solid wood and the gap that has to be maintained between the frame and drawer to cope with wood movement? I'm estimating 12", means he can have movement up to more that 1/8" in extreme conditions.

   As the drawers are plain, I would encourage the client to use veneer, or re-sawn veneer if he wishes to match exactly. then there is no risk in applying the trim and fitting the drawers is easy.

   Edited 5/20/2005 12:58 pm ET by Jellyrug

1. 
   ring | May 21, 2005 08:46am | #3

   Jelly,

   Well, I took it as a given that the drawers were to be solid, and even saw the spec for dovetails in the drawings.  Of course if the fronts were veneered there would not be any problem with the trim in the first place.

   As far as the gap is concerned, you're right.   And it will depend on what species as to how serious it will be.  For instance, if it's done in oak with a natural finish that gap is going to be fairly obvious.  But if it's in walnut, not only will the gap be smaller because it is more stable, but the darkness of the wood will blur the existence of the gap. 

   Clients most often do not understand that solid wood construction comes with certain limitations.  It's our job to try to get them to accept that, even to appreciate it.  If the client isn't capable of  embracing the beauties of solid wood, then for our own protection we need to force him to go with more stable solutions, like the veneer fronts in this case.

   DR

1. 
   AlanYoung | May 21, 2005 07:51pm | #4

   Hi Everybody,The cabinet is to be made of pine and have a ever so slightly distressed look. My client is ready to go with the applied to the frames option. The drawer front will be just under 12 " high. Maybe I need to push the veneered plan?Alan

1. 
   ring | May 21, 2005 10:11pm | #5

   IMHO, if it's pine do it in solid wood as planned.  You get to keep the dovetails and the solid wood will look great with the distressing.  I never liked distressing veneer...

   DR

2. 
   AlanTurner | May 22, 2005 01:45pm | #6

   Alan,
   Applying the cockbeading to the frame rather than the drawers themselves has much historical precedent. The Newport blockfronts are done this way, with the beading intergal to the drawer blades, but applied, into a rebate, on the verticals. The wood movement in a solid drawer front 12" in height will be quite a bit. I would visit the shrinkulator and be sure to leave enough room. It would be a shame to be building a "winter only" filing cabinet.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 22, 2005 10:58pm | #7

   Clients most often do not understand that solid wood construction comes with certain limitations..

   I told the the wife it was sort of like her husband..  He was what ya wanted but just changed over time...

   She said I under-stand..  I just hope he remanins hardwood???

   Sorry folks  I had To!

   Edited 5/22/2005 3:59 pm ET by Will George

1. 
   ring | May 22, 2005 11:12pm | #8

   It seems that this one is only looking for softwood, and distressed from the start!

   (I had to because you had to...)

   DR

3. 
   WillGeorge | May 22, 2005 11:17pm | #9

   If the client isn't capable of  embracing the beauties of solid wood..

   I LOVE WOOD

   AND hate cracks I can see..  Dang..