What is the formula for “antique-ing” brass?
Thanks in advance.
I must say that I’ve often received great response from well-informed/knowledgeable members of Knots. I only wish I could repay their generosity w/ similar quality of information.
What is the formula for “antique-ing” brass?
Thanks in advance.
I must say that I’ve often received great response from well-informed/knowledgeable members of Knots. I only wish I could repay their generosity w/ similar quality of information.
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Replies
Doug Stowe covered antiquing brass in his online blog last month:
http://wisdomofhands.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html
Friday, July 25, 2008
Edited 8/13/2008 4:12 am by labolle
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/antiquing/index.html
http://www.sculpt.com/ Go to the catalog and look up patinas.
The FWW website has it's limitations on non-woodworking info. Going to a specific site will always yield more in depth and better results.
http://sculptnouveau.com/ Ron Young is a master of the Patina!
There are many chemicals that will "antique" brass, not just one. Ammonia as mentioned above is an easy one to do because you can buy it at any grocery store.
Ammonium sulfate also works quite well and is easier to handle than liquid (aqueous) ammonia. You can get it from specialty chemical suppliers, and you just dissolve about a tablespoon in a quart of water and apply it with a plant mister.
Another common chemical that works extremely well is "lime sulfur". It's sold at nurseries as an agricultural pest control, though it doesn't contain any organic pesticides. Lime sulfur directly from the bottle is a bit too corrosive - you will want to dilute about a teaspoon of the concentrate in water, and apply it by rag or spray bottle.
Liver of sulfur is the most commonly used. It makes dark brown color that can be lightened by allowing some of the original bright brass showing through. You can get it at jewelry making suppliers or drug stores (usually by order in advance). There should be plenty of suppliers on the web. Check out metalworking publications (such as "Metalsmith" or "Ornament" for advertisers selling patina solutions (usually these are mixes of ingredients designed to get various "looks". I often prefer to do faux patinas using clear acrylic finishes and pigments as these are more permanent and self-sealing (also I have the materials on hand at all times).
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