Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Nov 16, 2004 11:02pm | #1

   It sounds like you've gotten uneven color absorption(blotchiness) and that the piece has least been partially stained without testing the color first.

     I'd wipe the stain off with thinner, sand back back to bare wood. Then apply boiled linseed oil with thinner to help seal the pores , allowing even penetration of the stain.Again, test first on scrap with this process. If the stain is too dark, thin it in a separate container before using it.

    

    

    

    

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 16, 2004 11:13pm | #2

   Can you apply a water-based stain over boiled linseed oil once it is dry?  Also- what are the proportions thinner to oil that you use?

   - Peter

1. 
   jackplane | Nov 17, 2004 05:21pm | #6

   I would not apply water based stain over linseed oil, I think oil stain is more compatible. I mix the linseed oil to thinner about 2-to-1,enough to let it flow but allow the most oil in the mix.

   What eddie said is right; eucalyptus is open pored and works best with a pore filler, or clearcoated with lacquer.

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 17, 2004 05:49pm | #7

   Thanks again.  Do you have any suggestions for a good brand of pore filler?

   - Peter

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Nov 17, 2004 03:12am | #3

   Peter,

   Eucalypt is a fairly open-pored timber that needs a pore filler first, then tint subsequent coats.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   CharlieP | Nov 17, 2004 07:36am | #4

   I did some test pieces of Lyptus with some water based dye that I already had...

   The "medium walnut" dye that I have is pretty red - almost like a light cherry finish.  I didn't like the way it looked on the Lytpus since it didn't bring out the grain, nor did it do much to hide the pink in the Lyptus

   The "dark walnut" dye that I have is pretty dark, so normally I thin it quite a bit.  It looked great on the Lyptus.  I did an identical piece of mahogany at the same time, and have a hard time telling them apart.  They both looked great, and were simply finished with lacquer.  No grain filler, but a sanding sealer under several coats of NC lacquer. 

   Sorry I don't have a more quantitative measure of dye to color, but it was just a quick trial, a few months ago, using on-hand materials.  It does tell me that grain filler was not required for my tastes, and that the darker dye worked well.  I tink the Lyptus hybrid may have a less open grain than eucalyptus. ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 17, 2004 05:01pm | #5

   Can you tell me what brand of dark walnut dye you used and how and in what proportions you thinned it?  That sounds like the best solution to me.  I'd rather not have to go through the extra step of applying a grain/pore filler. 

   Also, I have purchased a water-based polyurethane as a topcoat.  Can that be used over a dye stain?

   Obviously, I'm a novice at this and so I really appreciate your help.

   - Peter

    

    

    

1. 
   CharlieP | Nov 17, 2004 06:15pm | #8

   I would be glad to check when I get home this weekend - I am currently on a business trip. 

   The sanding sealer is a fairly soft layer that acts a little like a pore filler (doesn't fill as much as a regular grain filler, but some filling).  After it is applied, most of it is sanded off (very easy), leaving a very smooth surface for the following finish. I don't know what sanding sealer you would use with poly - I primarily work with lacquer.

   You should be able to use a water based poly over the dye.  The disadvantage of poly is that it is extremely hard - to the point of being brittle.  It gives a very abrasion resistant finish (great for floors, but harder to rub out on furniture).  I also have a table that I did many years ago with poly that has chips out of the surface.  I haven't figured out how my son and his friends did it, but his school years are when the chips appeared.  It left me "down" on poly for tables, and the difficulty rubbing made me "down" on poly for other furniture. 

   Note that dye and stain are totally different.  Dye colors the wood cells themselves, and is removed with bleach.  Stain sits in the pores of the wood, and is removed with paint remover.  Some of the commercial stains are actually a mix of stain and dye. They act a little different - for example, if your final sanding is with a very fine grit, there are fewer places for the stain to lodge, so the finish will be lighter.  ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood