Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | May 27, 2007 06:24am | #1

   I had to match an existing finish on red oak. It was a light color but like you, having the typical open pore areas turn dark wasn't correct. Any of the oils or dyes have the tendency to be absorbed by this open grain. I used another Minwax product, their water based stain. It turned out to be a perfect match and did not darken those grainy areas. Kind of a different look for oak. Inexpensive enough to try it out.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   SteveSchoene | May 27, 2007 11:04am | #2

   You should work with a dye as the first step.  Dye penetrates both dense and porous areas similarly and therefore gives a more even coloration that can be as dark as you want.  It's important when working with dye to remember that it can look quite different when it dries than what it will look like when a topcoat is applied over it.  Consequently the experimentation to determine how concentrated to mix the dye, and what shade to use must always include a top coat step so you see what the true effect will be. 

   A lot of times, a dye is followed by a pigmented stain that can give a richer finish with more "depth".  The pigment can either be a very close match to the dye color, or can be a bit lighter or darker, so that there is a little subtle contrast between pores and surface.

   I like dye mixed with distilled water, either from liquid concentrates (TransTint for example) or from powders (TransFast or the very wide range of colors made by Lockhart which are also sold by Woodworker's Supply under their Moser house brand.)  Alcohol based dyes or NGR (Non Grain Raising Dyes) dry so fast that they are generally best applied by spraying to avoid streaks from overlaps.     

    

3. 
   Lataxe | May 27, 2007 06:19pm | #3

   WW,

   The traditional stain for use on oak to turn it the dark brown beloved of the English arts & crafts medieval style is Van Dyke crystals.  These are sold by Liberon, amongst other manufacturers of finishing products.

   The crystals are made from walnut (apparently). They are water-soluable so you can easily make up small or large quantities.

   The effect (depth of coloration) can be achieved in two ways:

      1) add more or less of the crystals per volume of water;

      2) apply multiple coats (of a lighter mix) for an accumulative darkening effect.

   As this is a water-soluable finish, you need to be careful to apply an even coat and the surface must eventually be sealed to prevent splashes from causing blotching. I prefer to seal with 3 - 5 coats of an oil-based finish; but any water-resitant finish will work.

   With these crystals you will get the traditional look on oak and be able to vary the colour from a light walnut to an umber that is bordering on black, depending on what you want.

   Lataxe