Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jan 20, 2009 02:37am | #1

   I agree that an oil finish will 'pop' the grain very nicely. And like you say, it will darken the color a bit.

   One other thought for you to consider is the final location of this workpiece -- it will be the "kneeboard" beneath a bar. As a result, it will already be in a sort-of shaded area. Darkness is probably an enemy in this case.

   Depending on your desire/tolerance for more darkening after the oil, you could use........

   Super blond dewaxed shellac. This is quite durable and protective, and will add only the slightest of amber tones.

   Water-based or solvent-based brushing lacquer. Either is very durable, neither adds color.

   Water-based poly. Still very tough, and clear.

   Oil-based poly. Still very tough, adds an amber color, like oil-based varnishes will.

   Various other 'colors' of shellac -- but note that the orange and garnet varieties are probably way too dark to go on walnut.

   Good luck -- and post some pictures when you're done!

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   labatt50 | Jan 20, 2009 05:19am | #2

   Thanks YesMaam,

   I hadn't thought about the location darkness, very good point (thank you). I did a test piece of the 100% tung oil with "varathane Diamond floor finish (clear gloss)". It is a waterbased poly. I had some pieces i had wiped with tung oil last week, so I topped it with the above. So far i really like the pop and clarity, what is your experience with the waterbased poly sticking or not sticking? I personaly have never used this combo. I have to admit in surprise, it looks pretty dam good...but will it stick and hold up?

   Thanks again for your insight.

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jan 20, 2009 01:36pm | #3

   I will be a very late convert to water-based finishes, if it happens. So I have no experience with using it on top of an oil finish.But, my experience is that if you carefully read the labels of all these new finishes, you'll have your answer. Either the label will say what to do when topcoating oils, or it will leave yo wondering.If it leaves you wondering, then use a coat of super blond dewaxed shellac. It's an almost universal 'transition' layer. It can be put on top of just about anything, and it will work under just about anything.Also note that I was wrong in not mentioning, earlier, that shellac is not a good choice for the final topcoats. Shellac, as we all know, is alcohol-soluble, and therefore not a good choice for and area where alcohol spills might happen.One more thought about the location of the piece, and your upcoming choice for the finish.This will be the base of a bar. I'm envisioning a classic bar -- people sitting there; drinks, snacks, and elbows on top. Which (maybe) means that their feet and shoes will sometimes be in contact with your workpiece.I think that gloss would look good there, but I wonder about ease of maintenance. Will toe marks from shoes become a cleaning issue? And would that issue be smaller if you used a satin or semigloss?It's a trade-off. You pick.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

2. 
   terrylee86 | Jan 20, 2009 09:40pm | #4

   I would be very hesitant to put any water-based product over an oil product.  I am always concerned with compatibility issues when anyone tries something like you are suggesting.  Use a quality poly or varnish product after the oil has dried at least a week and you will have a beautiful finish.  Walnut does not darken with age like cherry, it lightens with age as does all the woods in the juglandaceae family.  When one area is exposed to UV and another is not you will have dissimilar coloration on walnut, butternut and the hickories.  After about 20 years my walnut pieces are about the same color and tone of my cherry furniture(lacquer finish on all).

1. 
   labatt50 | Jan 21, 2009 03:56am | #6

   Thanks terrylee,

   I think I am missing a little lingo here, when you say "use a quality poly or varnish product after the oil has dried at least a week" you're saying an oil based polyurathane? I am just reading the label on my can as a water based poly and would just like to be sure.

   Thanks

1. 
   terrylee86 | Jan 21, 2009 04:45pm | #7

   That is correct.  Oil-based varnish or oil-based poly over a wiping oil.  I would never used water-based poly over any type of oil, BLO, tung or teak.  It may work, but I would not ever risk it.

3. 
   frenchy | Jan 21, 2009 01:53am | #5

   I did my Black walnut grandfather clock in tung oil and years later it looks like raw wood..

    Shellac on black walnut the other hand looks rich and deep for a very long time.  Plus it's just as easy to do..

4. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 21, 2009 07:15pm | #8

   IMHO, the best way to preserve the beautiful streaks of color found in air dried walnut is with blonde shellac.  I finished a walnut desk I built with it, and it was the best finish I've ever applied to any piece I've ever built.  It won't darken the wood, but just make the color streaks POP!

   Jeff