I have been having prolbem applying aniline stains (powders mixed with water) to oak. I seems that some of the pores to not absorb the stain. I get the impression that the surface tension in the water does not allow the stain to make contact with some of the pores. I brush the stain on and the wood looks completely stained but as the solution dries unstained pores start appearing. I’ve tried adding some methyl hydrate to the solutions to break the water tension and leaving a bit of dust on the wood surface to act as a filler but still haven’t had any success. Any suggestions?
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Replies
I've tried water-reduced, alcohol, NGR with the retarder, and solvent dyes on oak and none of them colored the pores to my satisfaction. So I gave up trying to use dye as the only coloring step on oak (white & red; plain & quartersawn). And having given up has opened up a lot more options than dye alone could have ever produced. Now I use dye as the first coloring step and follow it with a pigmented wiping stain, glaze, or pore filler.
By using one color dye followed by another color stain, some nice effects can be had. You can use a rather bright dye in the yellow to orange range followed by any shade of brown or "mahogany" and get some striking highlights in the wood. A dull green dye followed by a brown stain produces an aged look. "Walnut" dye followed by "walnut" stain produces a deep brown color that dye or stain alone can't achieve. There are endless options.
If you seal the dyed wood with a thinned coat of finish, then use a thick bodied stain (e.g., good gel stain) or a glazing stain, you can get similar effects as the dye/stain routine with a wider range of contrast between the pores and field of the wood.
Using a pore filler is very similar to the effects glaze has, with the addition of a level surface (no dimples from the pores).
Paul
I've also tried the gel stain over the dye, either before or after a sealer coat, and I do like the effect. However, I've only ever used this when I'm trying to achive a very dark tone. For a lighter coloured finish I don't know if it will work but I think I'll start playing around. Another trick I've used is filling the pores with wax. Shoe polish works remarkably well as it is soft and wipes easily off the surface, leaving the pores filled
Remembered seeing some discussion on staining red oak pores on Jeff Jewitt's web site. Don't know if I will be able to include the link, so if not http://www.homesteadfinishing.com, click "Forum" at the top of the page. On the forums home page, under "Board Navigation" click "Forums" on left margin, then click "Tips" then on the topics listing click "Staining Red Oak Evenly." If it works the direct link is http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=254
Hope it helps.
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