Preparing for another order from LV and I need a long straight edge.
The 50″ aluminum is $72.5 ($1.45/”). The 36″ steel is $66 (1.83/”)
The 36 is probably long enough but I do have beds/tables longer than 76″
The question is: Is the steel worth the extra $.38/”?
I know this may seem trivial but I am Scottish.
Also, does anyone have a better supplier for straight edges?
Edited 8/14/2008 8:12 am ET by TWG
Replies
If by better you mean cheaper there is a good tutorial on making your own here.
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You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.
Jack London
More a reference bar than a straight edge. Can't beat a real straight edge.
The steel straightedges are slightly more accurate, and steel is slightly less sensitive to temperature than aluminum (lower thermal expansion coefficient). It's doubtful that the slight extra accuracy or stability will make any difference whatsoever when setting up woodworking machinery.
In my case, I have the steel straightedge, mainly because they're slightly tougher than aluminum, and the shape (rectangular) makes it easy to have it re-trued at a local machine shop should that ever become necessary.
One of the best investments I made was a 72" steel machinists straight edge some 10 years ago. Anyhow in the steel versus aluminum question, if you intend to run a knife along the straight edge, then I would go with steel, as a sharp knife will cut the alum.
Tony Z.
I have the Lee Valley 38" aluminum straight edge. I was going to get one of the 50" straight edges but I have found that 38" is fine for me. I also like that the aluminum straight edge is nice to grip and not likely to slip out of my hands.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
Try Starrett. Many consider them the industry standard.
Best
BB
Edited 8/18/2008 8:59 am by boilerbay
I have the 50" alunminum and the 24" steel.
The 50" is nice when the longer length is needed; the tricky part is to put no stress on it whatsoever when performing a measurement. Aluminum will flex slightly with even a little stress, throwing off the measurement. OTOH, the steel one is essentially a rigid body.
I have gotten by for years with one made from sugar pine, I true it up once in a great while and away it goes, and the cost was about 0.004 per inch.
I ordered the steel.
I have the LV aluminum winding sticks (which are great BTW) and they look to be similar to the aluminum straight edges. The winding sticks are great at ~12" but I don't know what they would be like at 55".
Don't know about the Scottish reference. Are you pro or amateur?
I've been doing machine set up professionally for 25 years.
I buy all my precision measuring stuff from the metal working catalogs. The woodworking catlogs just aren't as up on that and are typically more expensive. http://www.use-enco.com http://www.wttool.com http://www.mcmaster.com http://www.tools4flooring.com/straight-edges-c-139_123.html
Suburban Tool straight edges available from Mcmaster.com are a bit cheaper than Starret but just as good. Crain staight edge for flooring are very inexpensive and good quality. I set up jointers and machines so I need a good machinists straight edge and hjave a 4' and 6' Starrett. Since then I found my sharpening service can regrind old paper cutting knives for a fraction of the cost of my Starret and it's just as accurate.
A straight edge for doing jointer tables should be about 3/4's the length of the bed. I can do eight foot beds with my 6' straight edge just fine.
I have worked with both (very expensive ones for LASER table setup). Gee I first spelled it LASAR! Gettin' to old...
BOTH materials worked well. The aluminum ones can be dented very easily. But so can the stainless steel ones. Maybe 410 not sure? VERY hard.. But still can be damaged.
We ALWAYS kept them in a heavy wooden box (oiled felt) - (with a lock) .
As always, there are tradeoffs. Most likely cost... If the specifications of either fit your needs AND your pocket book Get what fits! Like any fine tool.. Take care of it! Less cost does not always mean less of what you receive. If the specifications are what you want.. Go for it... But will require more care on your part.
A tiny dent never hurt anything for what we used them for. HOWEVER, bending it was a different matter all together! (not 'seeing' the same straight line surface).
Edited 8/18/2008 10:57 am by WillGeorge
I have a 10 foot Starrett Straight edge graduated in 64" s of an inch on 2 edges that comes with a wood box I am willing to sell for $300 if any one is interested. the weight is about 60 lbs in the box. A place in seattle called Hardwicks has a couple of used 12 footers for sale too.
If that is true and it is not damaged AND still straight a BARGIN at twice the price! We never used ones with any markings along the length. Another tool to do that.. The LASER!
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