Replies

1. 
   Don01 | Mar 08, 2008 09:56am | #1

   Here is a pretty good table saw tune up link

   If you find it of value, try and order something from Dave.
   I have his Ridge blade and 2 fences.

   http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf

   Don

2. 
   Woodrat1 | Mar 08, 2008 04:01pm | #2

   Funny...I was looking for information on the same thing
   just this morning. I found 2 sources of info here in this web site:

   Here's a video that answers your specific question:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=5313
   (See: Tool Guide Tab on Home Page > Machinery > Tablesaws > Cabinet )

   Here's an article on a complete TS tune up:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2370

   (Found at the bottom of the same page as the video shown above)

   This is my weekend project...

   Bill-

   http://www.franklinwoodwright.com
1. 
   levelwind | Mar 08, 2008 07:52pm | #4

   Thanks for the link.  The video was just what I needed to see.

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 08, 2008 07:41pm | #3

   "Should the fence be exactly parallel to the miter gauge slot, or should the outfeed end of the fence be a slight bit wider than the distance between the fence and blade on the infeed side?"'  Ford v. Chevy, left-tilt v. right-tilt.

   Many, many people still toe the fence out, but keep in mind if you do that you may not move the fence to the other miter slot, as it will then be toed in which would not be good.

   There was a huge discussion about this a few years ago.  I seem to remember an historical perspective that although toeing out may have been necessary when saw blades weren't as precisely made as modern blades, it really isn't necessary any more.  The main thing is, make sure it doesn't toe in.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   levelwind | Mar 08, 2008 08:05pm | #5

   Thanks for the perspective Forestgirl. Sounds like its a personal preference as long as one remembers not to use the fence on the left side of the blade should the toe-out choice be made.  Can't wait to get things set up and running again!

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 08, 2008 09:59pm | #6

   Before you purchase any alignment gauges or tools, see if this helps. Use money saved to buy wood.

   Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and teach to my students now.

   Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head machine screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

   For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

   For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.

   The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

   I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

   You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

   Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

   Bottom line, there is no need to spend more than the $0.05 for the brass screw.Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 3/9/2008 12:39 pm ET by HowardAcheson

1. 
   nazard | Mar 08, 2008 10:27pm | #7

   Howie,

   Beautiful!!!

   -Jerry