Good evening to you all. I was hoping I may bother you all for some opinions/advice on a table I am building. The table will serve as a dining table at bar stool height of 36″. The top measures 48″ X 36″. The base is 26″ X 16″. This leaves me with about 11″ on the ends and 10″ on the sides unsupported. I have not yet attached the top to the base. I still have not decided what the best method would be to do so. I am thinking those metal clips would probably be fine. Anyway, I am looking for any criticism, design suggestions, or random thoughts. I am going to attempt to attach a couple of pics for reference.
Replies
The figure 8 clips will work. So would buttons. I'd use three or four on the long overhanging ends.
Might be a little late for design advice as it appears the project is complete for all intents and purposes. I think it looks fine, fwiw.
Carry on.
Never too late for design changes. Almost everything holding the base together was done with pocket holes and screws and the top isn't attached. I could take the whole thing to pieces if need be. I suspect I may be looked down on for not using mortise and tenon construction but I was able to accomplish what I was after using the Kreg jig. Not that I am opposed to using good mortise and tenon joinery but I just felt it wasn't necessary in this case. It will only be complete when the boss/wife is satisfied and it is installed.
Sorry, didn't realize that. I still like it. As somebody else mentioned, it might make sense to try out a bar stool in front of it and see if anything gets in the way of being comfortable.
@TaunTonMacoute
I did exactly that. This is a 30" high stool. I will be building stools with a height of a bit less that that. I am thinking 26" seat height. It seemed fine other that I was to high on a 30" stool. I was able to get as close as I wanted to the table without banging my knees on anything but like I said I don't come from large people.
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I think you're done, 'bro. Put a finish on it, attach the top, enjoy!
CD I like the top, but the shelves look like they'll get in the way of knees & feet.
@ stanthemanI tested quite a few different distances for the overhang before I came up with a 10” minimum. I don’t come from big people. I am only 5’ 7” and my wife and girls are not as big as I am I pulled up a stool and was able to comfortably sit at this table as configured without hitting my knees on anything. I suppose I didn’t take into consideration people larger than myself. Perhaps that was a mistake. I suppose when guests come by I will find out how much of a mistake it was.@ RicklYes. This was my first crack at a breadboard end on a panel. I referenced several sources on how to go about this. Knots was a great source. The mortise and tenon is exposed right to the outside. I considered attempting to make it hidden but in the end decided to leave it exposed. I pinned it from the underside in three spots. The center 6” or so was glued and pinned. The outside ends are pinned into an elongated hole that will allow about ΒΌ” of movement in the panel. The panel is 36” wide. I am hoping it is enough.
"The outside ends are pinned into an elongated hole that will allow about ΒΌ” of movement in the panel. The panel is 36” wide. I am hoping it is enough."
That'll be enough. One thing to remember though -- your breadboard ends will be too short much of the time, and too long much of the time, depending on the season, since the top will move. One way to make this change less apparent is to stop the M&T so it's housed. And, even better, on A&C designs, it may be appropriate to run the breadboard ends a bit long and chamfer the ends so they are always a bit proud of the edge of the table. That way, there's no real reference point for what's long, short or equal.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
@ MikeHennessy
I hear what you are saying Mike. I did consider doing exactly what you describe. To accomplish it I would have had to reconcile with my router table. A while back we got into a disagreement and it became rather disgruntled and decided to give me a broken finger for my trouble. Our relationship has been a bit strained since then. I instead decided the task could be more happily delegated to my table saw. Although it has also give me a broken finger a couple of years ago I could tell it didn't mean to and immediately forgave it.
So anyway the exposed mortise and tenon was more a decision based on my choice of method rather the choice of design. I agree the housed mortise and tenon would be more elegant.
Breadboard ends I see. Pinned in the middle and the ends float of course.
Chris,
Are you going to put plugs in the holes in the feet where it appears the legs are bolted to? I feel that the top looks a little disproportionate to the rest of the table, but it is justified as it is required to perform it's function.
Your shop looks very clean.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
@ flairwoodworks
Those aren't actually holes. They are walnut dowels that at run through the joint. Totally unnecessary but I am calling them a design feature.
I did struggle a bit with the design. The piece that the boss/wife really liked is here:
http://www.sundancecatalog.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=8850
I was tasked to build it with the requirement that it sits 4 people and has to fit in the space while having a design that was at least similar to the piece she liked.
Problem number 1 is the space. I don't have much room to put this thing. I had to scale it down substantially. I too feel the top is a bit overbearing in scale to the base. However, it does have to serve a purpose so it was out of necessity.
"Your shop look very clean."
You are kidding right? Even if you are not it made me laugh.
Chris,
It looks like you had to make quite a few modifications from the inspiration piece. I think that a few more walnut accents would visually tie everything together - maybe walnut trim or dowels in the upper joints.
I was not kidding about a clean shop. Have a look at mine!Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
You are right Chris. You win in the dirty shop contest. Seems like a dubious honor. I guess as long as it works for you it is alright. I would have a hard time working like that. I am not a neat freak or anything but I try to make sure I can see most of the floor.
I am going to spend the weekend attempting to give the piece more balance. Maybe some additional walnut accents or something. Maybe I will try and add some stretchers to the top that duplicate the look of the feet as someone else suggested.
To be honest I was not that fond of the inspiration piece. Maybe that is part of the reason it was so heavily modified.
See those cool 'feet' on the posts? What about putting something similar on the underside of the top (on the two short sides, I suppose), which would be attached to the outside of the tops of the posts? The top could in turn be attached to these oversized 'aprons' (what are they called on a trestle table?). This would sturdy up the top, and, more importantly, provide a visual transition from base to top that seems to me is needed.
Brian
That's a comfortable height, but it isn't bar top height, it's countertop height. Bar top height is 42", with stools of roughly 30" seat heights. Counter top stools have seats closer to 24" high. The nomenclature only matters when shopping for stools.
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