All,
After 2.5 years it appears my TS blade is out of alignment by about 1/64″…as I measure from the miter grove. The manual says to loosen the four bolts and shift the top. My question is loosening the bolts, I did give a bit of a pull with a rachet wrench…the cabinet saw moved quite a bit but not the bolts. I’m about to reach for the big iron… thought I should check with you folks first. Any ideas how to loosen these easily? thanks
Replies
BG: My saw is the Delta Unisaw.I use a closed end wrench assisted by a short piece of pipe for this chore.
I found that the holes in the saw frame wre not large enough to permit adjustment. I removed the top completely and reamed each of the 4 holes to a larger size. I believe that the final size was I/2 inch.I now use a flat washer under each screw head.
Alignment is by the use of a flat plate of aluminum jig plate. A similar plate of steel is listed in most of the catalogs. Standing behind the saw,I tighten the front left hand screw,then the back right hand screw. after that all screws are tightened in rotation. I do not put extreme pressure on any of them. I adjust the table slot to be as close to parallel with the plate mounted on the spindle as possible.
Now you can decide how you want the rip fence alignment to be. There is much discussion on this topic.In my case,the fence is open about .005"at the end of the table slot.
Work safely¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
All,
Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I'm trying to respond to all of you with this one post...we'll see if it works.
My saw, having been shipped from Taiwan and still aligned, probably has very tight bolts. The good news is my shop is dry and rust is not an issue.
I'll probably start conservatively with a well fitting 6 sided rachet and a wack...and then proceed to using the pony pipe clamps....and after a good venting of swear words...be reaching for the oils. Being left handed, I've gotta focus on the righty-tighty rhyme...upside down and backwards...thanks
BG,
A little squirt of liquid wrench probably wouldn't be out of place if the bolts haven't been touched for a couple of years. When you retighten them use a little locktite on the threads(not the permanent locktite!)When you are adjusting the top,leave one bolt fairly tight to act as a pivot point.
Brent
Edited 3/8/2005 5:47 pm ET by brent
BG,
The bolts were probably tightened at the factory with an air driven wrench and were quite likely over torqued making them difficult to loosen the first time.
To prevent rounding off the head, try to use a six point socket or box wrench rather than a twelve point. Giving the bolt head a few sharp blows, as though you were driving it like a nail, will often times help to break free a stuck bolt.
Avoid using penetrating oils, they rarely work unless they have days to soak in and they make it too easy to have the wrench slip and damage the bolt head.
Be sure you are turning the bolt in the proper direction to loosen it, some times when working with a bolt that is upside down it is easy to get directions reversed.
Rather than applying Loctite to the bolt threads, I would recommend the opposite, lightly lubing them with a little grease, since they will need to be worked with regularly. Locking compound is only needed with bolts that are having a problem staying tight and this isn't usually a problem with the bolts holding the table on a cabinet saw.
Hope this helps.
John W.
John,
Looks like we disagree on a few points. I guess what works for you....works for you, and what works for me......works for me.
Brent
I'll suggest soaking the bolts down with something like WD-40, leave it for a couple of days.
Then get a length of dowel, place it on the bolt head and sock it with a hammer (you don't want to hit the bolt directly with the hammer). Then try using a 6-point socket on a breaker bar.
When I've re-habbed machinery, I use a bit of anti-seize on the end of the bolt before reinstalling it. It's available at most auto parts stores. Keeps the bolts from "freezing" in place.
Good luck.
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