Replies

1. 
   sapwood | Jun 15, 2012 12:33am | #1

   1. Gimme an E!

   1. It's spelled veneer... with an e not an a.

   2. Under no circumstances should you use contact cement. CS stays flexible so it will allow the veneer to continue to expand/contract just like wood likes to do. The veneer will remove itself from the substrate.

   3. Yellow glue (titebond) will act better than contact cement but is not ideal.

   4. I'd use a ridgid setting glue like Unibond 800. These sorts of glues were developed for adhering veneer. They will not allow any movement between the veneer and the stable substrate.

   5. I've had failures when using veneers that were slightly thicker than 3/32 when on mdf. If your veneer is really that, then you should be OK. But, personally, I'd use plywood as a substrate. Plywood is stronger, holds screws better, is lighter, and is simply nicer to use. With that thick veneer, you do not need the smooth surface that mdf offers... it's only advantage.

   edit: added subject title

1. 
   salinasteve | Jun 15, 2012 11:32pm | #3

   Adhesive for veneer

   Thanks sapwood.  I can't type either.  You think that I would use spellcheck.  I really appreciate the advice.  I need all the help I can get.  This large a top will be a new adventure for me. SalinaSteve

2. 
   Westchester | Jun 15, 2012 06:41am | #2

   Vaneer

   I can't spell either so - no worries.  Sapwood gave you great info - a pro for sure.  However just in case you want to get to work along the lines you mention - contact cement is not good for veneer - the solvent one being better than water based.  30 years ago I did a few marquetry picture kits from Constantines with contact cement and they are still flat today.  Yellow glue is better but you need to be sure of 100 % pressure contact throughout when clamping. 

   Enjoy

   SA

1. 
   salinasteve | Jun 15, 2012 11:35pm | #4

   Adhesive for veneer

   Thanks westchester.  I can't type either.  You'd think I would use spellcheck.  Good info.  This large of a top will be a first for me.  I appreciate your help.  SalinaSteve

3. 
   tom77 | Jun 18, 2012 09:27am | #5

   I agree with sapwood's comments and would like to add some.  Unibond is a good veneering adhesive and is used by the professionals.  It does require a longer clamping time and is temperature sensitive.  Sets much faster when warm.  Check the specifications.  I have had success using cold press adhesivies available from Joe Woodworker.  I also use Titebond III when the cold press stuff is gone.  All work well.  The cold press adhesives only require a clamping time of one hour and are not very sensitive to temperature.  Just don't leave your assembly in the clamps for a long time.  Mold can form if left clamped for long times.  (12 hours)  It is best to remove the clamps after 1 or 2 hours and let the piece breath.  (ie, moisture evap)  Wait a few hours before working on the glued up assembly.

   Make sure you apply similar veneers to the back side.  You may get warping if you don't.

   You will need to clamp in a way that applies pressure over the entire area.  A vacuum press is the best, but clamps with cauls also work well.  Take the time to set up a good system of cauls so that pressure is applied over the entire area.  You will use a lot of clamps.

   Good luck, Tom.