Replies

1. 
   Handrubbed | May 05, 2006 06:30pm | #1

   I use a light tack spray adhesive applied to the back of the paper only.  Several brands are available:  3M Artists Demountable Adhesive, Sprayway makes one; and I think Elmer's.  Go to a crafts store or an artist's supply.  I do not recommend 3M 77 or 90 sprays.  They will leve the paper backing on the block when you change the paper.  Mineral sprits will clean it off, so always have some of that around.

1. 
   imrich | May 05, 2006 08:54pm | #2

   Thank You. There's a Michaels craft store nearby. I'm sure they'll have it.

2. 
   cowtown | May 06, 2006 08:14am | #3

   I think you answered yer own question, but may not have seen it.

   Any adhesive is not gonna be applied equally on the surface, regardless of how many OCD methodolgoies you bring to the party.

   Why not just use a plate smaller than yer paper and attach the fold overs to the ends of the plate, or even fold it over to the underside. .

   The pressure you apply downwards will keep the paper flat. the attachment on the ends will keep it in place. Heck, you can even use duct tape.

   not exactly rocket science, but a simplistic pragmatic solution....

   Eric

1. 
   Handrubbed | May 06, 2006 05:34pm | #4

   Many recommend just wetting the paper on the back and using surface tension to hold it in place.  Sort of a poor man's waterstone.

   One caution when you are not using some kind of adhesive:  the paper can roll up or curl slightly just ahead of the pressure from the advancing blade (unless you use only pull strokes).  This can result in rounded cutting edges.

   Another note: some study is taking place now trying to determine if there is such a thing as too sharp.  The theory is that a too sharp edge may break down too quickly to be useful in any woodworking function.  Supposedly Lee Valley is looking into this.

1. 
   jazzdogg | May 06, 2006 07:36pm | #5

   Creating sharp tools involves (1) establishing the correct geometry (shape), and (2) honing the two intersecting surfaces until the resulting cutting edge is appropriate to the task at hand.

   "Too sharp" could mean a tool's geometry was inappropriate for the task at hand, as would be the case if a mortising bit was sharpened at a 12-degree angle.

   "Too sharp" could also mean the tool was honed beyond what was necessary for the task at hand.

   What does "Too sharp" mean to you?

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   Handrubbed | May 07, 2006 05:22am | #6

   That is what the various studies hope to determine.  They will chart the the variables and determine at what point the sharpness (and bevel angle) yield a diminshing return in longevity.  What good would an edge that went dull after six strokes be? This is mostly theoretical, because every change of wood species might yield a different result.  What we might hope to glean is a result that might tell us that it is counterproductive to go to 16000 grit stones @ 25 degrees of bevel in A-2 steel, for example. 

   Here is another way to look at it:  In cutlery, the slicing of fruits and vegitables is actually impaired by a too sharp knife.  Some "tooth" in that edge helps sever the skin of  the delicate ripe tomato. The other lesson here is that you do what works.  Maybe that is all any of us need to know.

1. 
   Ricks503 | May 07, 2006 10:19pm | #7

   As a cook, the best peeler for a tomato, is not a sharp metal, nor a ceramic one, it is a serrated one1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

2. 
   DCarr10760 | May 08, 2006 03:53am | #8

   JD,

   I do not know about the studies mentioned earlier but it is my opinion from experience that it is possible to have an edge be too sharp for the application. 

   I was one of those guys who mirror polished plane and chisel backs, who invested a fortune in oilstones, waterstones, diamond stones, ceramic stones, lapping compound and now Silicon Carbide paper.

   I can get an edge tool very, very sharp.  If clean shaving your knuckles was all these tools had to do, I'd be all set.  But it seemed to me that after a few strokes with the plane or chisel, that the exceptional edge dulls, leaving you with a good serviceable edge that lasts for a good long time.

   My instinct is (and this is borne out of  my experience) that if you stop sharpening when you get to this serviceable sharpness the edge lasts as long as in the previous example.

   The only time I bring it to the high sharpness is if I have to do some critical cut, like paring end grain or something.

   I'm sure you could plot out the percentages of ideal sharpness and wear over time using some benchmark task for comparison purposes, but for me, understanding the concept is enough and putting it into practice means that I spend more time working with sharp-enough tools and less time sharpening tools.

   David C.

1. 
   jazzdogg | May 08, 2006 06:35am | #9

   David,

   You won't get any argument from me on this; as I said in my original post, I believe that it's important to sharpen tools - including both at the correct angle and degree of honing - only to the extent that's suitable to the task at hand. Going too far makes little sense to me.

    

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   BossCrunk | May 08, 2006 04:46pm | #10

   Great Post!

   Most people hone like the repo man is coming to take their whole shop away any minute - honed and polished to utter absurdity - like the stones are about to vanish.

   Adopt a system that lets you *hit and run* hone during the work session.  A charged strop and a small ceramic stone work for me.  I freehand chisels and plane blades on the small stone by moving the item in small circles.  You don't need a 9 inch long and 3 inch wide stone to do a quick touchup.

3. 
   jimmy | May 09, 2006 01:37am | #11

   Agreed...I've used a cinder block for a quick touch up in the field.  Works great...JImmy