Replies

1. 
   Jfrostjr | May 06, 2006 04:27pm | #1

   I assume you mean the "old Unisaw" does not have a dust port. If so, why not go with the new model location, low, in the back, at the bottom of a sloping suface. (It still does not get ALL the dust. I always end up with 'top throw' from the blade. Particulary with a zero clearance insert. (No opening to 'suction'.)

   Jerry

1. 
   dgreen | May 06, 2006 04:54pm | #2

   I bored holes in my zero clearance plate. Helped a lot.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | May 06, 2006 05:23pm | #3

   Great idea. Thanks alot.JerryP.S. Why didn't I think of that?

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | May 10, 2006 06:09am | #10

   If you could post the size, position  and quantity of those holes in the zero clearance plate there are many of us who would be very grateful. (a picture EVEN) Thanks, Pat

1. 
   user-140952 | May 10, 2006 10:15pm | #11

   I agree.  I have a 1" hole just ahead of the zero clearance kerf.  It helps, but it isn't great.  Love to get a look at a setup that really works.  

2. 
   dgreen | May 10, 2006 11:10pm | #12

   I'll take a picture as soon as I get a chance. Been busy the last few days...

2. 
   jafre | May 07, 2006 05:54am | #4

   I guess I will use the factory location unless someone has something better. Thanks!

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 07, 2006 07:22pm | #5

   I guess I will use the factory location unless someone has something better. Thanks!LOL.. As if Engineers know somethin'.. I's one.. But Electrical.. Most everything is made for COST, then LOOKS, then maybe function..
   IF they have time to finish before production starts...To me it is a REALLY hard problem.. Geeee, I even tried that with my router tables.. Maybe NASA's wind tunnel would work?My best results were when just looking where (most) of the dust collected and made a 'vacuume scoop' there..By the way, I have a small JET cleaner.. I'll give it away.. My old shop vacuume works better!

   Edited 5/7/2006 12:23 pm by WillGeorge

3. 
   JimV | May 09, 2006 04:44pm | #8

   Not wanting to cut into my '51 Unisaw (was my grandfather's, so I'm a little OCD about it), I simply made a new dust door out of MDF with a 4" hose connector. I'm lucky enough to have the goose egg motor cover on my saw and an Excaliber blade guard that sucks up the spin off on the top.Personally, I'd rather have a root canal than cut my unisaw cabinet.peace,Jim

1. 
   Jfrostjr | May 09, 2006 05:06pm | #9

   I agree with your point of view - totally.Jerry

2. 
   wrudiger | May 07, 2006 07:50pm | #6

   I did that, results are OK - probably 80%+ sawdust capture. 

   First, I built a shroud around the motor, with air intake holes. 

   Second I fab'd a piece of sheet metal that slopes towards the back, starting at just below the opening for the motor on the front and sloping down to near the bottom in back - pretty good slope.

   Third, I cut a hole and installed a 4" sheet metal / HVAC connector.  I cut and bent over the tabs on the inside of the saw cabinet, plus a few sheet metal screws & some caulk.

   When I'm changing blades I'll reach down in there with a piece of wood and push any built up sawdust down the chute.  Like I said, results are OK.  Course, my DC is 1.5 HP and I'm using 4" flex pipe.  When I have the time and $$ I'll upgrade to 5" smooth pipe (and hopefully upgrade the DC!).

   I really like the idea of extra holes in the zero clearance insert - gonna go out and drill a few right now!

   Sorry I din't have pics, and it would be tough to get anything now that would make any sense.  Good luck!

1. 
   jafre | May 09, 2006 02:02am | #7

   Thanks for the suggestions. I'm thinking that the primary problem with a lot of factory connections is they want to add it so they can say they have it as a feature without paying attention to the air flow/capture velocity issues. I'll incorporate the motor vents and the insert holes which are good ideas and make my own intake. Given that I will run only one machine at a time, I am a hobbyist, I may do one high and one low. The machine should have plenty of capacity.

   Years ago I was in Woodworkers Whse and a fellow brought his intake hood in from his Delta planer and said it wouldn't draw the chips/air. the rectangular to round intake hood had poor (sharp angles) transitions. I am in the HVAC business so I sent him to a local distributor and told him to check out their fittings. He picked one up that had a gradual transition to the round and called me later to tell me the improvement was dramatic.

   I guess Oneida is 6-8 weeks on new orders anyway. Getting the wiring done this week. I'll limp along with a shop vac til then