Replies

1. 
   Biscardi | Jul 19, 2002 05:05am | #1

   I would remove wood from the end that it would be easiest to conceal with a small, additional moulding.

   Don't feel bad. I spent a year once making a desk for my office. It had hand cut ball and claw feet, shells on the knees, hand cut dovetailed drawers, cockbeading and french polished -book matched walnut. It was about one inch too wide to get in the door. I had to pop the office window out to lower it in.

   Hope it works out for you.

   Frank

1. 
   Mark5 | Jul 19, 2002 05:39am | #2

   Thanks Frank

1. 
   GJMID2 | Jul 19, 2002 05:49am | #3

   Hi Mark===A router with a slot cutter might be the answer-I have used a slot cutting router bit-just set it to the depth needed and run it around the perimeter of the cabinet and then on the inside of the cabinet--If this doesn't cut completely thru, finish cut with a saber saw--clean up with a block plane--if your base was sqaure before, it should be perfect after your cut.

1. 
   Mark5 | Jul 20, 2002 05:06am | #7

   GeorgeM:

   Thanks

   Mark

2. 
   BG | Jul 20, 2002 01:17pm | #10

   Biscardi,

   Painful story, but at least it had a happy ending.  I had to cut the kitchen island in half....not so nice an ending...lol 

2. 
   lwilliams | Jul 19, 2002 06:24am | #4

   Uhhh, Mark; I'm sure you thought of this but just in case--make sure the cabinet either assembles in place or you use the diagonal measurement of a side as the floor dimension you need. Other wise you won't be able to stand the thing up. 

1. 
   Mark5 | Jul 20, 2002 05:08am | #8

   Larry;

   Good Point. I have thought of that. It is actually going below a 12" soffett so I have room to stand it up.

   Mark

3. 
   BG | Jul 20, 2002 03:03am | #5

   mark,

   Is the floor level ? Will the unit sit squarely when your done with what ever you do?

1. 
   Mark5 | Jul 20, 2002 05:05am | #6

   BG:

   Good question. I think it is but I can take 1/4" extra off just in case.

   Mark

4. 
   BG | Jul 20, 2002 01:14pm | #9

   Mark,

   Is the base detachable, how thick is it ? I like the slot cutter idea because is reduces the variables a bit..

   I guess the question I would ask is "what is your bailout strategy?"  Assuming it gets screwed up, can you put a piece of molding at the bottom, would it be difficult to match up? 

1. 
   Mark5 | Jul 21, 2002 02:54am | #11

   BG;

   Thanks for the response. The cabinet base is not detachable and it is 3/4" thick. So far, I will prbably go with my original idea with the router. I'm not sure the slot cutter would be as accurate a cut. I may be able to use molding if something goes wrong.

   Mark

1. 
   BG | Jul 21, 2002 01:57pm | #12

   Mark,

   Okay, one last nervous nellie question...lol.  Will you measure from the top down too or just from the bottom up?  Do you have enough room to pupport the straight edge and the approx. 2.5 inches for the router base? Lastly, (I promise) should you take a straight edge and scribe the floor just to see any variations ? 

   The more I listen to the experts on here the more I think about professional golfers.  In addition to honed skills, and course management, the distinguishing factor appears to be the ability to mitigate the unexpected...  Personally, I would cut with a saw and sweeten with your router...less dust and the 1/2x3/4x 84" stick might come in handy..in MHO.  Just so were clear, I'm both a newbie to woodworking and a high handicapper...but, great expectations in both....lol 

5. 
   woodshaver | Jul 21, 2002 08:02pm | #13

   Mark ,hear is a word of wisdom I was taught  while learning to be a cabinetmaker.      (90% of being a cabinetmaker is being able fix your mistakes)           good woodworking.