I just unpacked my first plane. Nothing special, a No. 4 from Grizzley. I took a few swipes on a piece of hardwood and peeled off a few shavings. Cool! Hard work. I then sharpened the iron quickly. This make a lot of difference. I then spent 20 minutes just making a pile of shavings. This could get fun! I can see why people talk about the satisfaction and pleasure of using hand tools.
Learned a few things:
1. I am going to have to learn to look at the grain. Obviously important.
2. It’s hard work.
3. I need to learn how to sharpen better.
4. Lots of practice ahead
Any suggestions for books or resources to help me learn?
Replies
PB
Get a good book on how to tune a hand plane, as yours most definately will need it if it's an inexpensive one from Grizzly. I recommend The Handplane Book by Garrett Hack, published by our hosts. It definately set me straight .
Jeff
PBURGETT you are headed down a slippery slope. It's not too late to turn back. Put down that plane and just walk away. The Grizzly seems innocent but it will inevitably lead to a Stanley or two, next you'll be coveting some LV or L&N's, soon only a Spiers or Mathieson will satisfy your craving. When the, significant other, discovers how much those Holtey's cost, your Waterloo is coming. There will be a confrontation, withdrawal, support groups and councilors. Save yourself the pain.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
PBURGETT,
I see that you have been a member since 2002 and assume that you are woodworking- the question is-how have you got away with not a single hand plane (let alone a Frizzily)and not sharpening ?
I just checked this post and it looks a bit rude- it is not meant to be.
Edited 6/8/2005 5:27 am ET by mookaroid
Mookeroid,
I use to be a pure power tool junkie and got away without hand planes for a long time. I converted simply as I could not power plane re-sawn veneer, glued to a substrate without the occasional tear out spoiling the piece. Also I could not get the same quality finish that a hand plane gives, with a portable belt sander on a wide table top. So, now I use hand planes often and the belt sander is gathering dust. (Butchers tool) I try and stay away from sandpaper wherever I can, which was a big improvement for my work.
If one sharpens own blades on power jointers and planers, using custom blade angles for difficult lumber, a perfect finish is obtainable.
Jellyrug,
You must take a medal, now.
"If one sharpens own blades for jointers....a perfect finish is obtainable.." These words are music to my ears. No doubt we will be meeting at the bunker because I now add that there are some timbers that are simply not practically planable by hand planes from Frizzilys to the most expensive Leewhatyoumacallit.
Portable belt sanders-are good for few, very few things , like sanding floors and levelling teeth embedded in bar tops.
Where were you when I was under attack from the seething hordes?
Now some people will know why I went to some trouble to set my machine plane knives in a certain way and why I made up my own means to grind these knives myself rather than use an out service .
I salute you and sign off now as I feel the initial tremors of an air strike.
I have been a member of this forum for a few years. Not sure if I would classify myself as a true woodworker, depends on the definition. Maybe "wannabe", maybe "beginner". My projects so far have involved repairing and refinishing old furniture (a high chair, a cedar chest that soaked in the basement flood, a few chairs). 2 years ago we moved and I now have a real shop in the basement. A lot of the "woodworking" has been put on hold while I re-finished the rest of the basement. I've been trying to be more of a carpenter, plumber, electrician, or painter than a woodworker. Then of course it takes time to work ON the shop instead of IN the shop.
I am now trying to become a real "woodworker". I usually get an afternoon or evening a week to be in the shop.
My next/first big project is to build a hope chest for my daughter who will graduate from high school next year. I think I want to use Cherry and use dove-tailed corners. Has anyone ever build a "practice" piece first out of pine or poplar? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
PBURGETT,
I can't imagine why you wouldn't practice on poplar, maple, whatever hardwood, before cutting the dovetails on your actual piece, or wasting some of your cherry. I don't know what you're dovetail-cutting skill level is, but given your description of yourself as just getting into "real" woodworking, I'll assume that your expertise in cutting dovetails isn't high.
If that's the case, buy a LOT of poplar, and start practicing NOW. This way, you'll at least have a fighting chance of having the ability to make that chest for your daughter by the time she graduates... Learning to cut dovetails by hand is hard - and one of the most rewarding things I've ever done - but also one of the most frustrating. I might start another thread asking people for their advice on where to get good instruction - there are a bunch of books, DVDs, magazine articles, etc., much of which I leveraged when teaching myself to cut dovetails.
Another idea, now that I think about it, is to take a class. I don't know where you are, but if you were near a woodworking school that would of course be ideal. Many community colleges have courses in woodworking. And if you're near a Woodcraft store, they'll usually have at least 3 or 4 classes amonth on cutting dovetails.
Finally, the quality of my dovetails took a giant leap the day I bought a Dozuki saw. You might want to check them out as well.
Anyway, if my assumption about your level of expertise is wrong, please disregard everything I've just written...
Hope that helps,Mitch
"I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."
Hi PBURGETT,
Certainly you should practice a bit first before you do dovetails by hand for that chest: but more importantly I think it is crucial to be able to 1)sharpen 2) mark and cut to the line and 3)have a method worj ked out first.I don't think that dove-tails are difficult if you have mastered those basic skills. I used the word "method" because even though dovetails are my "signature" I don't use a jig (got a Liegh-don't like it for various reasons-just like some one else in a recent new thread)- I use sharp chisels, tenon saw, band saw and ROUTER with staight bit.
I did not practise the first time-just went for it-only because I knew I could do the above-I have that first project here-can show pics of doves later.
Re hope chest for yr daughter- ideal thing to do and the thing MUST be joined with lap dovetails preferably.
I attach pics of a simple chest recently done now in shop window.
Another thing re hope box- "good hardware fittings maketh the chest"-so get nice solid brass stuff.
Hello again PB,
Here is the chest, which I made 30 plus years ago as my first go at dovetails.I had no power tools except for a fixed table circular saw. The timber had been literally rough-sawn: in a pit.But I knew what sharp was and had a new #41/2 and a set of marples chisels with the poly handles and a Spear and Jackson superior tenon saw. It shows what one can do when there is enough interest.
I have stacked the drawers to show the error in the back end- I wander if it will be noted as such 100years from now.
Has anyone ever build a "practice" piece first out of pine or poplar? Most pieces start life as practice. Most professionals refer to their daily activities as their "practice". Fear not, continue practicing and start with that cherry piece. Aloha, Mike
PBurgett,
A practice piece has many virtues. That being said, however, it is not only possible but desirable to execute small-scale practice pieces for all kinds of projects.
For example, I heartily recommend completing test pieces (with the formulas written on them) for many finishing projects; subtle changes in ratios, the application sequence, and specific products can change the appearance and durability of a project in conspicuous ways. Keeping good notes and labeling test pieces enables you to repeat a specific finish on future projects and determine the effects of changes, and can also be used in sales presentations.
Dovetail joints, and other joinery details that need to be practiced or tested on full-scale pieces can be perfected using practice pieces - without having to go to the trouble and expense of making an entire prototype project.
There have been many times when I've mocked-up a design in thin sheet stock, cardboard, or foamcore so I could visualize dimensions, the amount the top overhangs the sides, proportion rails & stiles, etc.
Another form of "practice" is to make jigs and fixtures with which a machines can be quickly set up for a specific procedure; the most obvious example that comes to mind is to machine a pair of test pieces when you've finally got the cope & stick bits set up and adjusted perfectly in your router table - using these pieces the next time you cut cope & stick joinery will save a lot of time setting up the router table and reduce the number of test cuts that will be required.
Good luck,-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
A critical feature of a handplane is a flat sole, to at least .001 or so. It makes a huge difference, esp.n a smoother. It is unlikely that your plane's sole is flat, but test it with a good quality straight edge. Lap it till flat, starting with drywall sanding screen, and I think you are likely to notice a huge diff.
Have fun, as this is but the first of many planes you will be desparately needing.
Next up, a LN 60 1/2 adjustable mouth block plane. Once you try this plane, you will see why it is worth it to be picky on your plane selection, but you will learn a lot about planes and planing from your new toy. Hack's book is excellent, and should be required reading.
Alan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
you should also look into Steve Knight's planes - excellent tools and wonderful to work with. each one is hand made and tested - comes with a 100% satidfaction guarantee.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
PBURGETT,
While I agree with most of the comments here (Hope you don't have an addictive personality), let me at least answer your question.
The sharpening reference most often cited by far on this forum is Leonard Lee's "The Complete Guide To Sharpening." It's pretty inexpensive - $15.61 + shipping at Amazon - and really is a must have for anyone with chisels and planes, not to mention scrapers, spokeshaves, jointer and planer knives, etc., etc.
I have to admit, I am amazed that you've been working wood for three years and haven't put your hands around a plane until now.
One other recommendation - Do yourself a BIG favor and replace your plane iron ASAP with a Hock blade. It's thicker, stronger and will hold a sharp edge much longer. It will also make your planing feel like less work.
Hope that helps,
Mitch
"I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."
I cannot recommend highly enough the DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part I: Hand Plane Sharpening by David Charlesworth. You can get it from Lie-Nielsen. At $25, it is worth every penny. Buy this DVD BEFORE you spend one more dime on jigs, stones, glass, sandpaper or books. Seeing an expert DO something is worth tons more than reading a book. I have the Leonard Lee book recommended above. It's good, but the DVD is priceless.
After you absorb all the info in that DVD and have your planes razor sharp and know you can resharpen a dull blade is two (no, I am not kidding) minutes, get David's next DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part II: Hand Planing. That one will REALLY open your eyes and take your woodworking skills to a whole new level.
Chris
PBURGETT,
In one of his posts, Mookaroid said:
"Certainly you should practice a bit first before you do dovetails by hand for that chest: but more importantly I think it is crucial to be able to 1)sharpen 2) mark and cut to the line and 3)have a method worj ked out first.I don't think that dove-tails are difficult if you have mastered those basic skills. I used the word "method" because even though dovetails are my "signature" I don't use a jig (got a Liegh-don't like it for various reasons-just like some one else in a recent new thread)- I use sharp chisels, tenon saw, band saw and ROUTER with staight bit.
I did not practise the first time-just went for it-only because I knew I could do the above."
I agree with the vast majority of what you said, Mook. Of all of the great advice, clearly the most important for PBURGETT is 1)sharpen 2) mark and cut to the line and 3)have a method worked out first.I don't think that dove-tails are difficult if you have mastered those basic skills. These are the building blocks of most joints, and especially dovetails. I would say, though, that your level of WW skills, as evidenced by your fine work - great chests, btw - far exceeds that of Mr. PB. Rather than have him use chisels, a tenon saw, a bandsaw and a router, I'd recommend having him concentrate on the basics with just a dovetails saw and chisels.
Also, PB, scribing the baseline is one of the most important elements of cutting dovetails by hand. You must have a sharp marking gauge. While I have a number of them, including several with pins, my favorite by far has become the wheel gauge, where the sharp wheel scribes the line while the brass base on the rod is held fast and square to the work. Click on the underlined link for an example. And buy the least expensive one for $10. It'll work just fine.
The reason the baseline is important is that it will seve as your reference point when you're choping out the waste with the chisels. You should be able to feel the chisel "click" or "drop"into the baseline, give it a whack or two with a wooden or poly mallet, and thereby ensure that your waste won't get chopped out past the line. Otherwise, you'll have unghtly gaps in your dovetails. But again, I can't underscore Mookaroid's advice enough: You MUST learn to 1)sharpen 2) mark and cut to the line and 3)have a method worked out first. These are the essential and indispensable skills required to cut joints by hand. Practice these religiously, and you'll find dovetails far easier to make.
Mookaroid, would you agree with this advice?
In any case PB, I hope this is helpful to you as you embark on a great journey of learning and accomplishment in building beautiful furniture.
Best regards,
Mitch
"I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."
Mvac and PBEE,
Er, yes I do agree with my advice 100 % ! Sorry, just being a bit flippant there.
You have covered an area which I just glossed over- marking out. I still use the first dovetail gauge I made last century-a simple piece of wood.In fact, marking tools are things that I like to make for myself-so I attach pics for general interest. The cutting gauge as well as the marking gauge are not that simple to make , but those other things are-they are made from throwing darts, which have a suitable steel-you can grind little knife edges and just keep some pointed ones.
The wheel on that cutting gauge came from a tube cutter-I just ground it a bit thinner and sharper-it cuts a vee but very fine. I used that magical stuff called tufnoll for the fence part.
Depending on the timber I use ink tube part of a ball pen or a .5mm propelling pencil to mark tails pins .The ball pen is better if fine point.
Books help,especially for inspiration, but there is no substitute for interest and Actually Doing It.
BTW, the tape is metric- far superior (!)
Gee NICE.. I see no marks on them! You use them?
Hi Will,
I certainly do use them. Now this innocent question brings a serious response: I use tools that I "respect" and like to keep them looking good and in good working order-sort of like looking after your rifle. The combination of steel ,iron, brass etc machinery and wood has always fascinated me ,especially when smooth and gleaming. I believe the serious part of this is that it translates into an attitude with a useful benefit: because since I am careful I don't damage myself either e.g I have not cut myself with chisels, power saws, planers etc or 'slipped' and sliced knuckles etc when changing planer knives...
Have hesitated in posting this as it is not easy to put in words only what I mean-so here goes...
Mookaroid,
Those are some very fine marking instruments - You obviously have way too much time on your hands.
I was puzzled, though, by one part of your wheel gauge. What is the knurled brass piece that is parallel to the shaft along which the fence rides, and what's it used for?
Regards,Mitch
"I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."
just guessin... micro adjust...??? similar to the titemark....Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Yep- Mike is right on-fine adjust.
As your original post asked for resources on learning basic hand tool procedures, and your later post specified that you wanted to make a dovetailed cherry chest, I thought I'd point out a book that seems perfectly targetted to you. Peter Korn's "Woodworking Basics: Mastering the Essentials of Craftsmanship" gives you the basics you need to use hand and power tools, encourages you to use mostly hand tools at first, and shows you how mill square stock and to do mortise and tenon and dovetail joints, first for practice, and then in a few projects. This is an excellent book, and while it may not be for everyone, it is designed to teach what you want to learn.
At amazon: http://tinyurl.com/dfhnx
Congratulations. After I started using handplanes I gained a new appreciation of the term "woodworking." I'm with PB. The Handplane Book by Garret Hack will give you a greater appreciation for handplanes as well as some sharpening methods, history etc. If, as some say, the heart of a woodshop is the workbench, the handplane must be the "soul."
Your question caused me to think back on buying my first plane. I had just entered into my first few weeks of medical practice, and needed to do some building. I went to the local small town hardware store and bought an excellent Stanley #5 for $17. That was in 1959 more than four office-call charges! I've learned a few things about planes since then, but still have a soft spot for that plane.
Tom
You're hosed. Halfway down the slippery slope and no going back.
Hack's book on planes is worthwhile, the Lee book on sharpening is pretty good.
You'll quickly discover that there are at least as many opinions on sharpening as there are woodworkers.
Good luck, enjoy, I hope your SO has a generous heart and good sense of humour.
Good Morning,
I saw your posting only about 6 months after you posted your questions. Wow, you talk about me being slow!!
Anyway, as has already been mentioned, two excellent books are what I constantly refer to for planes. The first, Garrett Hack's The Plane Handbook. Sometimes it is a little overdone, but wow, does he know planes. The second would ge Lee's "Sharpening" book. It tells you how to sharpen almost anything. And do NOT skip the first few chapters, although they are somewhat technical. Understanding these chapters will be of great value in the future.
Good Luck,
detailman
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