Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 05, 2008 07:39pm | #1

   Unless you intend to use a power feeder to rip a lot of thick hardwoods, 2 1/2" to 3" thick, on your saw, you won't need 5 horsepower. Also, for numerous reasons, ripping thick wood is much better done on a band saw even if you have a table saw with a large motor.

   The rule here is "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Modifying a machine can create more problems than it solves. I would suggest that you just buy a high quality rip blade, and also a good combination blade, and that you try out the saw for a few projects with the motor you have.

   Most new 10" cabinet saws have 3 hp, but 2 hp on a well tuned saw with a good blade is adequate for all but the heaviest cutting. You already have a high quality motor on the saw. The Leeson motor, at 2 hp, is probably the equal of most "3 hp" motors on the import machines. If you do feel the need to upgrade the saw, going to 3 hp would be plenty.

   I have to run, I'll get back to you on the tune up and maintenance half of your question.

   John White

1. 
   iannlb | Apr 08, 2008 05:35am | #2

   Thanks Jon, 

   Thats just what I needed to here after a tough winter in the housing and building markets in my area. It's great to here that I don't need to invest more money into this great saw right away.  I knew you were the one to ask.  So far I have cleaned out the inside of the cabinet, lightly oiled everything and began working the surface rust off the top and right side extension table.  I have been researching, saving and steadily acquiring woodworking machines and hand tools for about 2 yrs. now, luckily my wife has been incredibly supportive.  Until now I have always wondered but never asked why, people always say "buy American" and "they don't make them like they used to" but after spending just a few minutes with this machine its obvious.  The cabinet walls are atleast 3/16" steel, approximately 2x thicker than my newer import machines.  The trunion is huge it honestly looks like parts that you would find in a 4x4  heavy duty pickup truck chassis and instead of a particle board and laminate extension table this machine comes with a steel one.    I havn't been able to put much time into the saw yet and I can't quite see how to mount the unifence rail but I look forward to getting it all set up and dialed in, and again any help or advice you might have would be much appreciated. 

   Thanks again,

   Ian 

1. 
   EdBishop | Apr 11, 2008 03:28am | #3

   One of the best things you can purchase is a dial indicator to adjust the blade and fence.  I have a TS Aligner although I am not sure they are still available.  It runs in the grooves on either side of the blade.  Your table is fixed to the cabinet with three bolts (two in the front and one in the rear).  Run the dial indicator front to rear and adjust the table if necessary.  To adjust, loosen the bolts and move the table.  A rubber mallet will help.  I have a newer model PM 66 (although still US made before they moved them offshore) and I get my blade (usually Forrest) within 0.001" front to rear.  I set my fence the same way and leave 0.002' relief to keep from binding.  It's amazing how well a properly aligned saw cuts.  I use an Incra fence (TS-III) and am very pleased.  Good luck

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 11, 2008 05:45pm | #4

   As long as we're going there, I'll make a plug for my book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines". It will tell you how to make a couple of simple jigs, out of shop scrap, to hold a dial indicator and align the saw. My jigs work as well as, or better than, the manufactured ones and will save the user a fair amount of money.John White

   Edited 4/11/2008 11:42 am ET by JohnWW

1. 
   roland_johnson | Apr 12, 2008 09:34pm | #5

   Roland Johnson wrote an article on cabinet saw tune-ups that shows a complete top-off tune-up. The article appears in issue No.179, September/October 2005. Good luck with you new saw.
   Woodheat

2. 
   iannlb | Apr 12, 2008 11:40pm | #6

   Thanks woodheat I'll check that out.