14″ General Bandsaw Upgrade
I’ve got a General International 14″ bandsaw with the riser block and use it extensively for resawing (usually 6″-8″ thick hardwoods) and find it a trial. I also use it a fair bit for roughing out bowl-turning blanks, but have no problems there. The bandsaw has a 1HP motor and I’ve equipped it with a 1/2″ 3TPI Tufftooth blade. I use a wide kerf 3/8″ blade for cutting green bowl blanks.
When resawing, I find it hard to cut in a straight line. I use a resaw block to guide my cut, but dispite my best efforts of pressing the wood against it, the wood drifts away. I’m not sure if this is a result of my technique, the blade, the blade guides, or the saw’s set up. I have spent a lot of time setting up the saw, which I believe is correctly.
This is how I set up the saw:
1) Install blade and tension using the flutter test – eliminate flutter, then add 2-3 turns more of tension
2) Center blade on tire
3) Adjust guide and thrust bearings so they are a paper’s thickness away from the blade
4) Set the resaw block (“L” shaped piece of wood) so that the point is the correct distance from the blade and just ahead of the teeth
While resawing, it is not uncommon for small sparks to fly from the vicinity of both the upper and lower blade guides. I am considering upgrading to the Carter blade guides. They cost about $150 and I am wondering if I’m better off upgrading to a bigger saw with more horsies. I have also heard high praises of carbide resaw blades which can cost as much as a small bandsaw. Do you think that any upgrades will significantly improve the performance of the 1HP bandsaw or would I be better off putting the money towards a new bandsaw?
Thanks for sticking with me and my long post. I’m just trying to answer any questions before they are asked.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
– Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. – Albert Schweitzer
Replies
Chris, when I think about it, what else allows deflection aside of not enough tension, and guide settings?
I think one of the reasons resawers use coarse toothed wide blades (3/4" up) is because they tend to deflect less.
If it were me, I'd consider a coarser wider blade, maximize my tensioner, and make certain my guides (both top and bottom) were in sync and tuned.
JMO. Good luck.
Well, I am using the widest blade by bandsaw can take - it's 3/4, I believe, now that you mention it. It's also a low tension blade, and I have it tensioned accordingly. I'll have a look at the guides.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Your original post, or I read it that way, said you were using a 1/2" blade.
I was going by my poor memory.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Sparks coming from your guide blocks sounds bad. They may be too far forward, and are hitting the teeth sometimes, which definitely would be bad. Make sure that if you push the blade back to the thrust bearing, the teeth can't hit the guide blocks.
If the teeth have hit the blocks, they will have dulled considerably, possibly on one side so you can no longer track straight. You want a very sharp blade for resawing.
Michael Fortune knows a lot more about this than I do, and he recommends getting a lot of 1/2" 3 TPI carbon steel blades, and only using them while quite sharp. Here's one of his articles:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093
Alan,
Thanks for your reply. My bandsaw used ball bearing guides for the sides as well and they spin freely. There is no way that the blade can contact them. I think I'll invest in a new blade, though this one is still quite new.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris-are you checking the blade for drift before setting your fence?
Most every blade drifts-rarely do they cut square to the miter gauge or table. The way to check for this is to take about a 1.5” or 2” thick x 6" wide x 14” long board and gently just cut straight thru it and see which way it drifts. Do not cut through the whole board. After about 3/4's of the way thru the length, turn off the band saw and mark the angle of the drift. This is the angle you set your fence. Even if free handing the resawing, this gives you the angle you need to feed the board thru the blade.
I have four band saws, from 14" to 36" and do tons of massive resawing, up to 20" thick and even being off 1 degree or so can cost me a complete project and thousands of dollars in wood and time.
I use 1/2" blades from Suffolk Machinery http://www.timberwolf1.com/
They're the AS type and very aggressive, but perfect for re-sawing. The wider the blade, the more friction and resistant you get cutting, so forget about the 3/4" and 1" blades on a 14" bandsaw. Michael Fortune's article is an excellent place to start per one of the other posts.
Yes-you should upgrade to the Carter Guides.
Good Luck,
Mark Levin http://www.marklevin.com
Levin Studio, creating fine investments in studio art since 1975
Mark,
I do not currently use a fence - only a resaw block. I will have to build myself a fence. I find that I need to hold the wood at about a 10 degree angle off (so I feed from the left to right) and the blade sometimes pulls itself to the right. The Carter guides should eliminate any twisting of the blade. I would love to try a Timberwolf blade, but cannot contact them to order (I'm in BC).Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled