Hello; I’ve a nice (other then the warp) 6/4 x 8” wide cherry board about eight feet long in my rack with about a 1” bow (end to end) in the middle more or less. What is the best way get the most useable lumber out of this? I have 30lbs or so of other lumber sitting on top of the bow for about the last six months, no change. Is it likely to go out of line again after jointing, planing? Thanks, KDM
The Bill of Rights
December 15 1791
NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Edited 8/30/2005 11:44 pm ET by dukeone
Edited 8/30/2005 11:53 pm ET by dukeone
Edited 8/30/2005 11:59 pm ET by dukeone
Replies
Hi Duke,
I guess I'd rough cut it close to your specs, then let it sit for a week, and see what happens. Just guessing its done moving, but I cut up a piece of western red cedar not too long ago that really went squirrly. Your board is dry isn't it? BTW good to see another NRA guy here.
I think Dirtstirrer' answer is about as good as youl get.woody/LUTHER
< BTW good to see another NRA guy here.>um....thats National Radial Arm saw association right? ;-)
Exactly Mike, we're very exclusive. A prospective member has to have actually seen a saw, and send one of us a check for the dues, and you're in. Lots of perks too, the main one being, we really know the secret to fixing a migrating rocker.
Steve
< we really know the secret to fixing a migrating rocker.>Cool.....they migrate north in the spring and south in the summer, right? I think all you have to do is keep em in the house all the time. Let me know if I figgered it out. Thanks Steve.... aloha
Blast, now how are we going to coerce dues if the secret is that easy to figure out!?
Steve
<how are we going to coerce dues if the secret is that easy to figure out!? >You need some spin to it.......a secret handshake and a decoder ring help too....aloha, mike
Mike: Do rockers go the opposite direction south of the equator?
DukeKenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights
December 15 1791
NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
<Do rockers go the opposite direction south of the equator?>Last time I was south of the equator they went both ways......back and forth and forth and back.......the toilets flushed opposite though........
Any wood working project always needs smaller boards. Just cut it up into smaller pieces when needed.
NRA huh? I was a Junior NRA member when in high school. When in basic training in the army, I out shot the firing range instructor using an M1. I had yet to turn 18. He asked me where I learned to shoot and I said "shootin squirrels". My group was tighter than his and it was the first time I had shot that rifle. I loved the M1. Darn good shooter to be a production rifle.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Hey Mike, did you ever try a National Match version of the M1? Awsome rifle. You're lucky, I got stuck with the M-16, not exactly the same caliber so to speak.
Steve
Nope, never did. I won $5 from a Capt. once. We were doing our annual qualifications at a pull target range. 8 clips with 8 shots each. Targets from 50 yds out to 600 yds. I missed the bull once and he missed twice. He didn't want to pay but he did! I was out of the army and discharged before Vietnam hit.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
What did you have in mind for it Duke?
I - for example - make lotsa small boxes. Your piece would be ideal for resawing when the max length required is 36 inches (for the 4 sides of a box). If you want to make the sides of a 6 foot dresser, however, you're in trouble!
There is no easy answer to this question duke. If the wood is slightly case hardened taking a little wood off the convex side will likely straighten it some. In many cases the amount of bow that you describe can be ignored (as when casework or stiles, etc. will be able to pull the bow straight when assembly is completed). Sometimes when the wood is ripped part of it will straighten out and part will curl in a tighter radius. Much depends on what project you have on the agenda and what sizes and shapes are needed for it. You can sometimes straighten bent planks with a heat gun but it is MUCH more effective on pieces with small sections (like pool cue tips) than on large thick planks. For something like bookshelves a bit of camber is quite desirable. I am just trying to give you the feel for how an experienced craftsman approaches the problem that you describe. There are really many fine (and not so fine) solutions possible. One system that often works well is to cut the plank in half (lengthwise, or ripped) and then glue the concave sides together so that the stresses balance each other. Of course this solution is only useful when there is a use for laminated lumber of double thickness (and half the original length or width).
Thanks all: I don't have a project in mind for this board yet; my main concern was what it might do after incorporating it in some piece taking hours and hours of work and having it ruined. I'll take your various bits of advice when I do get to using it. Sounds like the safest way is to rough cut it to approximate size and then let it sit for a week or two and see if it stays put. Or as ''Bigfootnampa'' says might be interesting to glue it up into thicker sections if I can think up a use for such. Would ordinary yellow glue do for this? Or would it require epoxy?
Thanks again, DukeKenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights
December 15 1791
NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Make a smaller project out of it. It probably won't move a whole lot more than where it has after you remove all the motion it has already exhibited. Resaw it and machine it down now into smaller pieces like the other fellow said. Make it work for you. It has already let you know where you stand with regard to its temperment. You might lose a quite a bit but could still get a very nice project out of it.
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