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How to Sharpen a Card Scraper -
Fixing Woodworking Mistakes -
Router Jig for Perfectly Aligned Dadoes -
Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster -
How to Make a Simple Jig for Offset Knife Hinges -
Box Making Tips and Tricks -
Buying and Using Trim Routers -
How to Drill Windsor Chair Mortises -
Five Minute Guide: How to Use a Tablesaw -
Upgrade Your Jointer with a Segmented Cutterhead -
T-Track is a Smart Workbench Accessory -
How to Cut Sliding Dovetail Joints -
3 Steps to Great Glue-Ups: Sliding Dovetail Joints -
Dedicated Sled Delivers Perfect Finger Joints -
Best Tabletop Finish -
Five Minute Guide: Glue-Ups -
How to Apply an Aerosol Finish
Special Announcement - My Book on SketchUp
comments (59) October 16th, 2010 in blogs
Yesterday Fine Woodworking launched my new book, "SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers". See the link into the Taunton Store here.

An e-book in PDF format, the first four chapters get you started with setup information and tips on using the basic SketchUp tools. Then it moves ahead with step-by-step exercises in modeling woodworking features such as joinery, moldings, turnings, and more complex components such as drawers and paneled doors. These exercises are demonstrated on a variety of furniture types and styles including classic period tables, workbench, Windsor chairs, stools, cupboard, blanket chest, highboy, and Maloof rocker.
Often I'm asked how to start a drawing in SketchUp, and I've provided helpful guidance for this issue. Another chapter shows how to use imported pictures to accelerate the initial "building" of a model - a powerful kick-start to your project.
And of course I've included chapters on organizing your SketchUp models for producing effective and accurate drawing documentation. The includes tools for creating full-size templates used in marking out lumber in the shop - another powerful feature.
While this Design. Click. Build. blog has provided much information, it has lacked an index and a way of finding answers to specific problems. The book finally helps solve this problem with a comprehensive index.
I hope you enjoy this book and find it helpful for starting and advancing your SketchUp skills. The results will show up in higher quality and capability of your shop work.
Tim
posted in: blogs
Become a Better Woodworker
About Design. Click. Build.
Learn the art and science of designing furniture in SketchUp with Fine Woodworking's official blog. Moderated by a devoted community of woodworkers, we feature step-by-step SketchUp tutorials on designing components, downloads of pre-built 3D models of furniture parts, and news and information about the evolving world of digital furniture design.
Buy the Video
Don't miss Dave Richard's brand-new DVD/video download, The Basics.
Buy the Book
Get Tim Killen's popular eBook, the Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers.
Basic SketchUp Tutorials
Learn the basics of building furniture in SketchUp with these classic posts from the Design. Click. Build. blog.
Creating a Project Plan in SketchUp
How I Draw in SketchUp
Axes in SketchUp
The SketchUp Move Tool
The SketchUp Rotate Tool
The SketchUp Scale Tool
Materials, Colors, and Textures
Applying Wood Grain Skins in SketchUp
Easy Dovetail Joints in SketchUp
Digital Project Plans
Download and modify SketchUp files for select projects from Fine Woodworking. View all. Top Sellers: Matt's Monster Workbench New England Pine Cupboard Garden BenchMeet the Authors
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DaveRichardsI am a Biomedical Equipment Technician. I maintain anesthesia and respiratory equipment for the largest medical facility in southeast Minnesota. I...view profile |
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Tim KillenI am retired from Bechtel Corporation after 36 years in Engineering and IT management. I grew up among woodworking machinery in...view profile |
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Comments (59)
Tim
Posted: 1:46 pm on January 27th
Tim
Posted: 9:17 pm on January 23rd
Posted: 4:32 pm on January 21st
Posted: 10:01 am on January 24th
Rather than guessing the problem, please send your file in email attachment.
Tim
Posted: 12:43 pm on December 14th
Posted: 10:05 am on December 14th
Congratulations on getting through the tongue and groove joints.
I suspect your problem on the rabbet in the Top has to do with not setting the Top component for editing. Before using the Line Tool over the guideline, make sure to set the Top component for edit.
If that doesn't work let me know.
Tim
Posted: 5:01 pm on December 13th
Posted: 4:35 pm on December 13th
I've included a slight gap between the tenons and the mortises at the ends of the breadboard. This will allow some seasonal movement. I glue only on the center tenon. The outer ends of the breadboard are free to float with the weather.
Tim
Posted: 11:34 am on June 9th
I am having trouble with chapter 9 step 35 and associated figure 39 for the long tenons on the tabletop bread board ends. It appears to me that you are missing the dimensions of the width of the middle tenon and the right hand tenon as well as the space between the middle tenon and the right hand tenon. Am I missing something?
Steve
Posted: 5:27 pm on June 8th
On your problem, it is best for you to send me your file. Then I can see if there is a reason you are unable to remove that face. Make sure you have opened the component for editing. Then trace over one segment of the circle with the Line Tool. This will cause SketchUp to recognize the hole in the surface.
Tim
Posted: 11:21 am on June 7th
I wanted to start a new string but don't see how to do it. Would that be the right thing to do or do you want this string to continue on with further questions? In any case I am running into a problem creating the elongated holes described in chapter 9, step 30 on page 54. You say in the text:
"When you copy the hole, you may see that the copy doesn’t appear to go through the frame component; all you will see is the outline of the hole. To fix that, zoom in very close to the hole and trace over a small part of the hole outline. You should then be able to click on the hole and eliminate the bogus face. Do the same on the opposite face of the frame component to clear the hole."
I have tried all variations I can think of but the hole does not appear to go through. It looks fine in x-ray view but not shaded. Can you clarify what needs to be done further?
Steve
Posted: 11:48 pm on June 6th
Thank you for the clarification. I now can get the rotation to work. I will send you my model for comment on why I was unable to edit the components as you suggest in Chapter 7, step 4. I would prefer to use your method rather than creating many layers if I can understand how to make it work.
Steve
Posted: 2:34 pm on May 30th
Tim
Posted: 8:36 pm on May 29th
I strongly recommend not using Layers as you have stated. This is risky and will make your modeling process very complicated and frustrating. Keep all your graphics on Layer 0.
If you send your model to me, I would be glad to identify the specific things to do for correcting these problems.
Also, if you haven't already done, read through past blogs, e.g.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/33040/the-most-often-frustrating-error
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/32372/tongue-groove-joints-in-magazine-rack
Tim
tkillen@killenwood.com
Posted: 8:06 pm on May 29th
I have been using Sketchup for about 6 months having learned it from online tutorials and Sketchup Forums and went through the book pretty quickly until chapter 7 where I have had a lot of difficulty. I am using Sketchup 8 for this work. From the comments here I see that others have had similar problems. In particular, beginning on page 34 in step 4, I was unable to create the tongue and groove joints in the top and side until I had physically separated them using the Move tool. I ran into this same problem in several places later on in the chapter. One idea that I have found useful is to make multiple layers with like components on the same layer. That way you can only have the parts that you are working on visible and the others invisible. For the magazine rack, ther would be a top, bottom, side, skirt and partition layer. Then you don't have to keep moving pieces around. The only drawback of this is that you have to be always aware of which layer you are drawing on.
Also on page 36 near the end of step 10 I was unable to carry out the rotation of the cutout as you suggest using the move tool as it would only let me rotate around the red axis. I had to use the Rotate tool to be able to rotate around the necessary green axis.
If you have any suggestions about what I might have done wrong in these cases, I would appreciate hearing them.
Thanks,
Steve
Posted: 4:46 pm on May 29th
You cannot make scenes into layers but you could associate layers with those components you don't want to see in specific scenes and turn those layers off as needed.
Posted: 8:45 am on January 19th
Posted: 6:57 am on January 19th
Tim
Posted: 9:51 pm on January 16th
Found my answer in the next chapter!!If you make the shape a component,you have to edit it before you draw the path in order for follow me to work.Easy when you know how!!!
Best software book I've ever come across.
Thanks again.
Posted: 7:14 pm on January 16th
Your e-book is fantastic but I've struck a problem when I attempt to use the follow me tool to create the bevel on the drawer bottom.I followed your instructions,made the bevel shape,made it a component etc,but when I hover the follow me tool over the shape,it won't work.However,if I don't make the shape a component ,it works fine.Problem is,It is more difficult to select the extruded shape to make it a component afterward,without moving the sides of the drawer bottom away.What am I doing wrong?
Posted: 2:50 pm on January 16th
Tim
Posted: 11:29 pm on January 15th
Some of the buttons are Scan,Cross section, Assembly, and Explode, among others. What did I miss?
Thamks so much for writing the book.
Dennis C
Posted: 6:14 pm on January 15th
To avoid having to do redundant joint details on separate components, I do the common work first, then use this component to make the new separate component.
I use the "Make Unique" component feature when I'm in a hurry and doing something temporary. SketchUp quickly and automatically assigns a unique name to the new component (but it will be the old name with a suffix of #1 for example). You can then later edit the name of this component to the final desired name, if you want a permanent new component.
If I know a new component is required, I typically do the "explode" and re-create a new component. Then I can immediately assign the desired name for the new component.
As usual, there are multiple ways to achieve the same result.
Tim
Posted: 6:47 pm on November 25th
There is no reason you can't or shouldn't modify an existing component to make a new one. At least if it saves you work and time.
Make Unique differs from exploding and making a new component in that it keeps the same component definition name and appends a number. The component's axes remain in the same place as the original and other parameters including layer association remain the same. Of course you can rename the component in the Entity Info box. If you explode a component and remake it, the component axes may be relocated if the component has been rotated or flipped. In addition, if you've associated the component with a different layer than the default layer, exploding the component will cause the geometry to be associated with that layer. Good practice when using layers is to leave geometry (faces and edges) on Layer 0 and only make layer associations for components/groups. Exploding the component and remaking it kind of counters that practice and you should make sure to change the entity's layer associations back to Layer 0.
My preference is to use Make Unique and then just edit the component definition name afterward.
Posted: 6:34 pm on November 25th
I have a question about the computer desk, but I think it will apply to almost any drawing. Several components have the same joinery but are different sizes. Is there any way to adapt a component so you don't have to do the same joinery all over again? One other question and it may be related. How is "make unique" different than exploding an existing component and making a new one? Thanks
Timberlady.
Posted: 4:48 pm on November 25th
Tim
Posted: 1:15 am on November 16th
Thanks very much
John Myatt
London Canada
Posted: 10:09 pm on November 15th
Tim
Posted: 12:12 am on November 14th
I have another question. Before I bought your book, I was attempting (without much luck) to design an L shaped computer desk in the Greene and Greene style. I was feeling confident enough after the first nine chapters to try again. Now the problem I'm having is, having constructed the post component and placing copies (there are 10, 8 in a row 20 inches apart (wide) & various distances lengthwise and the other 2 on the bottom of the L) I'm not sure how to orient them so they mirror each other. I know how to use the flip along function and can mirror the first four in the long row but do I have the next 2 mirror the second two, the final two mirror the third two and the short L two, who do they mirror? Hope I haven't confused you too much. I'd send you a copy of the drawing but I don't know how. Barb
Posted: 4:47 pm on November 13th
Tim
Posted: 9:10 pm on October 28th
back again. After writing that last note, I read your response to ScottSh and selected the top and edit component. I fiddled a bit (like Scott?) and did figure it out. I've been "designing" with Sketchup for some time but, your book so far has made it a much more pleasant experience. And that's an understatement!!!!!
I'm sure I'll be back. Thanks Tim. Barb
Posted: 9:05 pm on October 28th
Posted: 8:35 pm on October 28th
You can also get into the Edit mode of the Component by clicking on the Top once with the Select Tool, then right clicking the mouse and selecting Edit Component from the pop up list.
There is a change in version 8 with the Push/Pull Tool. In previous versions, you could select the Push/Pull Tool and right click the mouse on the component and pick Edit Component from the pop up list. This no longer works in version 8, and Google tells me they will be fixing this to work like the old days.
Tim
Posted: 12:16 pm on October 28th
Posted: 11:46 am on October 28th
When I found this issue, I let Google know of the change. I don't know if they will go back to the way Follow Me worked in previous versions.
Tim
Posted: 7:19 pm on October 27th
Can you use Follow Me with a component in preselect mode?
Posted: 6:14 pm on October 27th
It's available again now:
http://www.tauntonstore.com/sketchup-guide-for-woodworkers-tim-killen-ebook-077846.html
Sorry again for the inconvenience, Gina, FineWoodworking.com
Posted: 3:04 pm on October 27th
Posted: 11:08 am on October 27th
-Dave
Posted: 6:47 am on October 26th
Posted: 3:59 am on October 26th
Thanks again....
Tim
Posted: 11:36 pm on October 25th
On Page 49, figure 16, I believe the tenon length should be 11/16" and not 1-1/16" as it says.
On Page 50, Step 19, I don't believe you want to mortise the legs for the upper front stretcher until you make the back legs unique.
Still having a great time learning! Thanks!
Posted: 8:21 pm on October 25th
When in doubt, for technical questions re: this book contact our customer service department: Email support@customerservice.taunton.com or Phone: 800-477-8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-Fri
Thanks, Gina, FineWoodworking.com
Posted: 2:09 pm on October 25th
Tim
Posted: 1:47 pm on October 25th
Page 31: You are right that an instruction should be included to select and edit the Top component. Otherwise the reader is not clear whether I'm starting with the Top or the Side.
Page 32, Figure 8: I think the instruction to draw a guideline at the centerline is included in Note 1. on the figure (last sentence)
Page 32, Step 9: On occasion I may not specifically state an instruction to "make a component", or "edit a component". But you are right that the Front Skirt needs to be made a component.
Page 34, Step 12: OK, I see your point, however all the information is there.
Page 35, Step 16: Again, you are right that you have to pick "Edit Component" - just selecting is not enough. I may at times not be that specific in the text, especially in later chapters.
Thanks again,
Tim
Posted: 1:44 pm on October 25th
I have just purchased your e-Book and am hardly studying it to get the most out of Sketchup. It looks very promising.
I'm using ver 8 on a Mac and found a difference with the e-book. It concerns the "Window" menu and "Materials" sub-menu: when i open it i get the "color selection" pop-up window; the latter can not be minimized like the other ones as it contains the three "red-yellow-green" buttons of Mac applications and does not react on clicking on the top window bar. Is that a Window-Mac difference or a bug?
Thank you
Richard
Posted: 6:40 am on October 25th
I ran into a few issues with Chapter 7 and I figured I would post them here. It certainly could be me misreading or misunderstanding what was intended but if it helps somebody else I figure posting it here can't hurt.
Page 31, Step 4, first paragraph - I think there is a missing instruction to select and edit the component on the Top? Overall, this paragraph and the next one were very confusing. I got it eventually but it is a bit awkward.
Page 32, Figure 8 - missing an instruction to draw a tape measure line at the midpoint of the side piece.
Page 32, Step 9 - missing instruction to create component Front Skirt.
Page 34, Step 12 - second paragraph should really be Step 13 (creating the dadoes in the bottom and top), it made it easy to miss that second paragraph when working through the lesson.
Page 35, Step 16 - should say to select and edit the components (top and side) instead of simply select.
Posted: 11:08 pm on October 24th
Posted: 3:25 pm on October 24th
Thans
Nico
Posted: 2:07 pm on October 24th
Tim
Posted: 8:16 pm on October 19th
Posted: 2:48 pm on October 19th
Now to see how I can improve my SketchUp skills
Posted: 12:46 pm on October 19th
I recently purchased this ebook and believe it will be of invaluable benefit to both the neophyte and accomplished SketchUp user. AAMOF, along with SU on my laptop, the pdf file is now loaded on my smartphone for instant reference in the field and shop.
No financial interest, or otherwise, in this book ... simply an unsolicited kudos for a job well done!
Thanks, Tim ...
Posted: 2:43 pm on October 18th
Thanks for the quick fix.
Posted: 2:37 pm on October 18th
Anyone who purchased the book will get an email with any missing information.
If anyone has additional questions or concerns, follow up with our customer service department: Email support@customerservice.taunton.com or Phone: 800-477-8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-Fri.
There are real and very nice people there who will be happy to help you.
Thanks, Gina, FineWoodworking.com
Posted: 11:05 am on October 18th
Just been reading my newly downloaded ebook. This is the book that I've been wishing for ever since I started trying (and failing) to learn SketchUp. Even with a quick flick-through, things that have been puzzeling me have become clearer. I can't wait to get home tonight and get cracking.
Thanks,
Jon
Posted: 8:21 am on October 18th
Thanks for the comment,
Tim
Posted: 5:14 pm on October 17th
I download your ebook, and it looks great. However, when I got to chapter 3 I could not find the download for the Connecticut Stool. Could you help me with this.
Thanks,
Frank
Posted: 12:35 pm on October 17th
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