Replies

1. 
   Terrenord | Aug 27, 2008 06:24pm | #1

   Depends what your using it for.  Are you going to be using it as an outfeed table to you table saw?  If you are, use Malemine (cheap, slippery, replaceble).  If not, go for something more durable.

2. 
   heartwould | Aug 28, 2008 05:20am | #2

   For my 3'x6' bench that I use for most of my shop work (hand routing, miter sawing, dovetail jigging, glue ups, etc.). It has a 3/4" banded plywood top and works well with clamps.
   My other table can better handle the pounding of a hammer. Using what was available at the time, it is a 2 1/2'x4 1/2' 2x4 frame (reinforced with cross members ever 12") topped with old southern yellow pine t&g flooring. Both benches are on 2x4 legs and frames.
   The point is that you can find something to fit your needs or take the time to really build a showpiece of a workbench. For me, my current need for function overrides my desire for form.

1. 
   [email protected] | Aug 29, 2008 04:39pm | #4

   I like your idea of t&g flooring what thickness did you use? an does it stay pretty level? like you ,mine will be used for glue-ups to tool collection.  I would like to kinda use it as my main work area and leave most of the m/t and dovetailing to my other bench  ( home made jointers bench)

1. 
   heartwould | Aug 29, 2008 04:59pm | #5

   Just 3/4" southern yellow pine t&g has stayed pretty level, due in large part to the bracing underneath, I'm sure. The leg assembly is attached with wing nuts on carriage bolts for "portability," but it is still fairly heavy. Depending upon your needs, you could easily beef up the legs and/or the top, but at the time I was hauling the bench to job sites.
   I've looked at a lot of sites for the "ultimate workbench," and they all would serve my purposes in one way or another. My benches were made from just what I had available at the time and, since they do work, I haven't yet taken the time to build another.

3. 
   unionlabel | Aug 28, 2008 11:16pm | #3

   I have a small wall bench, 30" x 84" edge banded in poplar a 1/4" higher than the plywood top. Over the plywood I drop on 1/4 hardboard shiny side up. When it gets beat up I just replace the hardboard.

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Aug 29, 2008 09:00pm | #6

   I would think carefully about a 4' deep bench against a wall.  When I said that I was building a 3' bench, you should have seen the responses that generated.  I've got my bench mostly together (the main parts, at least) and have found that 3' is a good size, but I wouldn't want it any wider.  Don't let your R2 screwdriver roll to the back or you'll never get it back.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   [email protected] | Aug 31, 2008 06:37pm | #7

   I should have made my demensions a little more clearer the bench will be 34 inches deep with one leg4 ft and the other leg 10 ft.  along the 10 ft will I am thinking of putting a chop saw station  with enough room in the front  for working , and putting a 3in overhang for clamping ect.

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 01, 2008 06:38am | #8

   Sounds good.  If possible, you should look at making the height of the bench the same as your tablesaw.  That way you can use it for stock support.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   heartwould | Sep 02, 2008 02:23pm | #9

   You may want to consider this design from Norm Abrams to incorporate the features you have indicated:
   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0201

1. 
   [email protected] | Sep 02, 2008 04:19pm | #10

   that is the general idea I am looking at , but with pull out shelves , I want to try to put all my tools (router ,sanders ) in a enclosed storage area to try to keep the dust and clutter down as much as possible  am always open to new ideas.

1. 
   heartwould | Sep 02, 2008 04:52pm | #11

   If you flash through "Click here to see what other viewers have built" (on the right side) on the NYW site, you can see how some have built pull out shelving with drawer fronts rather than full drawers, or you could easily make just pull out shelving or fixed shelving. Overall it looks to be a sound design.

5. 
   RonT | Sep 02, 2008 11:57pm | #12

   Go to a lumber yard or home center and locate a damaged solid core door. They are cheap and make a good solid bench top.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 05, 2008 07:21pm | #13

   Tempered Hardboard.. Cheep and replaceable! IF under a sturdy base!

7. 
   roc | Sep 06, 2008 05:55am | #14

   Plywood for the actual work surface can be a problem after a while. Where I work we have plywood topped benches and I am constantly getting splinters under my finger nails when picking up small items off the bench.

   These are no doubt low quality plywood. The masonite layer on top is a good idea! If you get the tempered it is more moisture resistant if your coffee spills etc.

   An interesting surface addition I have for one of my benches is a role of black neoprene that is about 1/8 inch thick and no texture. I cut it to exactly fit the whole top of one long bench. When I need to work on machinery I put it on the bench top and it protects the bench something beautiful. When it gets dingy looking I give it a wash and dry and then wipe down with WD-40 and it looks great again.

   I bought the neoprene by the yard off a huge roll at a bearing and hydraulic equipment supply. Can get a lot of different thicknesses.

1. 
   beemerbob | Sep 06, 2008 06:11pm | #15

   Replaced my patio doors recently. Since I couldn't find anyone to rid of the door for me, I took the frame off one of the doors.It now is my bench top.