A friend of mine and I are building European-style work benches (shoulder vise, tail vise, the whole bit) together to share material costs and help each other trouble shoot. We’re looking for a good, durable finish that will highlight the wood (Maple/Padauk) and provide lasting protection. We’ve thought about using Waterlox but neither of us have any experience with it. Another option might be linseed oil. I was hoping some of the readers would be willing to share their opinions of the best finishes for this purpose, keeping in mind the uses a workbench is put to.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Replies
Depends on what you are looking for. Linseed alone won't provide much protection, either from dirt, water vapor, fine dust from say, walnut, or in my case, coffee.... "Danish oil" or a homemade one from Waterlox and pure tung oil would be better, and would be more repairable than Waterlox (or any film finish) alone because you are not dependant on surface build. Thinned "Maloof" might be better still, but I have never worked with that.
No matter what you choose, be prepared to flatten it occasionally (or at least once when it re-stabilizes from the milling/laminating) and refinish, and be sure to finish both sides equally.
Sounds like a looker--pics when you are done?
/jvs
I used plain old shellac on mine and it's held up well.
MDP
Probably the most protective finish would be poly, but you will regret that when you have to re-flatten the surface down the road.
I just finished a new top. Three coats poly under-neath and drown it with Watco natural on the top and sides. Let it stand, adding to any spots that realy suck it up and wipe after about 30 minutes. I let it sit and cure for several days. Re-applied to any dry spots and wipe dry again after 30 minutes. I let it sit and cure another week and waxed with Butchers wax. Comes time to re-flatten, mineral spirits disolves the wax.
I have seen the Waterlox used with good results. Not sure how it is to remove when it comes time to re-flatten. I guess the bottom line is the most protective finishes are a pain to remove at re-flattening time. The penetrating oils are easy to remove, but do not provide the water, stain and scratch resistence. Alas, a compromise.
Bottom line: The world is not perfect and never will be. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
I'd vote for Tung Oil like what is used on timber floors. Easy to repair, easy to flatten the top down the track. For a more durable finish, you could top the tung oil with 2-3 coats of a water based floor polish. The top can then be washed and repolished as required and when it's time to resurface, the polish can be wiped off with a water based solvent.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled