Replies

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Jan 04, 2002 06:27pm | #1

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   I’ve made more card tables, than any other type of furniture, and I’ve not had any problems reported to me, with regards to the tops warping. I finish mine with rock hard table top varnish. I place a shim of 2 pieces of poster board between the leaves so they don’t get hinge bound, but any thing wider than this would detract from the appearance, and probably wouldn’t help control warping. I tell my customers to open the leaves in periods of drastic weather changes. Still I think this may all be a losing battle, since most period tables have at least some warping, and a few have catastrophic warping. Most of the table that exhibit major warping, are those that were veneered, and have baize playing surfaces. The common practice at the time was to batten the ends of the substrate, which lead to a huge cross grain problem.

1. 
   sbaia_ | Jan 04, 2002 10:39pm | #2

   *Rob,Hinge bound - what do you mean by that?Myself, I thing card tables have a particularly nice look to them. I wouldn't mind making a matching piece.thanks,Steve

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Jan 05, 2002 12:45am | #3

   *Hinge bound, is where the back edges of the leaves rub against each other as you open and close them. Some hinges have a link that helps prevent this and some don't,either way I make sure to leave a little space (1/32").Card tables are my favorite type of furniture, in fact I'm starting one Saturday, I'll post it here in about 2-3 weeks.

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   sbaia_ | Jan 07, 2002 08:13pm | #4

   *Rob,Ok, now I understand Hinge bound. I resolved this on my table by chamfering the adjoining back edge of the two tables. There's a small "v" grove when the tables are opened but it doesn't distract from the piece.Look forward to viewing your table.Steve