I did a search on this already and had an interesting read, to say the least. What I gather from the information I skimmed is taht wipe-on Poly is simply thinned poly. Thinned to a suitable viscosity for wiping. Is this the only difference? I have some windows that I will be staining and would like to apply poly to. I don’t want to build it up too much, but do want several coats for protection. I have a gallon of poly that I am using to brush on the trim work, but I’d like to try to wipe it on. Rather than buy the already thinned wipe-on version from Minwax, couldn’t I just thin the stuff I already have and use it? if so, what is the ratio?
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Yes, it is as you described. 50-50 is a good starting point.
Wipe on finishes
Edited 4/28/2008 7:05 pm ET by byhammerandhand
Manufacturers seem to use about 1:1 ratio. But they also have an ulterior motive--thinner is cheaper than varnish. Try about 2 parts varnish to 1 part thinner to start with. If that wipes on comfortably for you you will get a faster build. But, feel free to add thinner if your not comfortable to start.
I used to buy wipe on poly, but once I discovered that it was just thinned brush-on poly, well, I cracked the code! I can mix it exactly how I like it, and I get identical results.
Just mix it starting 2::1 with poly to mineral spirits or turpentine. Thin it further if it leaves drag marks or ridges. You can also add Boiled Linseed Oil to the mix to help make figured woods 'pop'.
Regardless of the top coat, I always put on a thin wash coat of 1# dewaxed shellac and sand it down nice and smooth with 320 grit paper.
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
I would note that you should use caution when adding oil to a varnish. More than just a smidge and you risk softening the finish enough that you could run into problems. That's why the directions for wiping varnish are different than those of oil/varnish mixes. Oil/varnish mixes, such as the 1/3 oil plus 1/3 varnish plus 1/3 thinner, must be vigourously rubbed to remove all excess after each coat has had a had a short tme to penetrate. They shouldn't build on the surface for such a film would be soft--almost gummy at times. I guess I would almost always rather to add more thinner than to add oil. With the wiping varnish you do leave a visibly damp surface and do allow it to build into a surface film that is quite a bit more durable than oil/varnish mixes.
Now, you can use oil as a separate first step for "popping" the figure. That's common, though I think it doesn't make a whole lot of difference if the top coat is an oil based varnish.
Great point - I stand 'modified'Tom Iovino
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
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