Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Dec 26, 2009 05:25pm | #1

   In my opinion, screwing into edges of plywood should only be done when the edge is housed in a dado.

   And if the edge is not housed, then runing ANY kind of screw into it is a bad idea. Because the plys WILL separate.

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1. 
   GaryW | Dec 26, 2009 06:41pm | #2

   Without housing the edge in a dado, we've successfully used "confirmat" screws to fasten hardwood veneer core plywood for at least ten years (we have had delamination problems with fir core plywood). You must pre-drill for these screws, as you should for all screws, and you shouldn't over tighten them.

   Since I haven't figured out how to provide you with a link, I suggest you Google "confirmat screws," but I can tell you you'll find them through most wholesalers, and online suppliers like Rockler.

1. 
   BillA | Dec 26, 2009 07:27pm | #4

   Is 2" still a good length? I will be using 3/4" shop grade birch plywood.

1. 
   GaryW | Dec 28, 2009 11:41am | #10

   We use 50mm-long by 7mm-diameter 2" x 1/4") confirmats. I stopped using drywall scrwes long-long ago, because they break too easily from over torking them. Instead, we use Spax screws, pre-drilling for them with tapered Fuller bits and a counter sink. for assembly, we use #8 screws, and for installation, we use 3" to 3 1/2" by #14 screws. Spax screws are "square X" heads, accepting a #2 square driver or a phillips driver.

   Since we use prefinished birch plywood for most carcases, gluing butt joints isn't an option.

2. 
   Taigert | Dec 26, 2009 07:29pm | #5

   What about pocket screws?

   Taigert

1. 
   GaryW | Dec 28, 2009 11:43am | #11

   We use pocket screws and biscuits whenever blind fastening.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 26, 2009 06:46pm | #3

   I prefer dadoes and glue for anything subject to stress or weight. Deck or drywall screws (#8 or #10?) with pre-drilled pilot holes would be a choice, but not my first.

3. 
   DonStephan | Dec 26, 2009 08:34pm | #6

   Pre-drilling would be a good idea even for drywall and similar screws. Shearing likely is not an issue, so drywall would be acceptable. Also, deeper thread of drywall screws into plywood end grain seems like a good idea. If confirmat doesn't split particleboard, surely it won't split plywood if used correctly, but more expensive than drywall screws and harder to find.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 26, 2009 09:40pm | #7

   Sorry.. I was thinking again. Gets me in trouble sometimes.

   As to a base I 'think' you are 'thinking' of..

   Why not just purchase a common furniture dolley or two. The last ones I bought were about $20.00 and I could not get reasonable quality rollers and hardware at that price!

   They are usually made of oak and will support alot of weight. Not sure how much. Probably a safety related tag on them stating the maximum load?

   Yes, they are a bit narrow (As in tipping) for some objects but then use two with a hunk of 3/4 inch ply bolted to them works! But then again I think a bit outside of the box....

5. 
   carpenter5 | Dec 28, 2009 02:08am | #8

   All the cabinet shops I have worked in always use 1 3/4" screws but always also pre-drill the holes to avoid any splitting or screws going astray. This method works 100%

   carpenter5

6. 
   oldusty | Dec 28, 2009 10:06am | #9

   Bill ,
   Typically when
   Bill ,

   Typically when assembling cabinets that get nails or screws with 3/4" plywood I use 1 1/2" length fasteners .Imho after about 30 years that some glue , and 1 1/2" fasteners has never failed . Longer screws will not make the joint stronger in this case but possibly the opposite , causing splitting and compromising the integrity of the joint.

   I also use glue , no matter if it is a butt joint or a dado , glue is your friend . In theory after the glue dries you could remove the fasteners for the same strength .Learn to trust your glue and you can use way fewer fasteners in general I use a few clamps instead of more fasteners.

   regards dusty , boxmaker

1. 
   BillA | Dec 28, 2009 09:44pm | #12

   thanks for the advice