I would like to buy a drill press and have been looking at the Rigid DP1550 and the Grizzly G7944. Does anyone have any experience with these models? Any help with making my decision would be great. Thanks.
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Replies
I've had the 1550 for about 5 years, Rip. Excellent, especially considereing the price. Run-out good.. belt change quick.. good chuck.. the table is easy to clamp to or add a larger retro-fit.. plenty of power (a drill press is a finesse machine and doesn't need much to begin with).. has a light and decent quill travel.
The only reason I would consider getting another would be to get the Steel City 17" with 6" quill travel, which most don't need. But.. I will probably hang onto the Rigid unless I stumble across a SC 17" abandoned in a parking lot as the 1550 is getting the job done.
Sarge..
Edited 1/24/2008 5:47 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
I've not used the Rigid, but have used other DPs with the dial-in depth stop, and found that it's too easy to over power them and drill too deep. Is there a solution for this, other than using the table height adjustment?
Thanks,
oldfred
Being a simple man with simple plans Old Fred, I simply measure the depth I want on the drill bit and slide a stop collar over it to reference where to stop. On small drill bits, I simply wrap a piece of masking tape around it after I shade it red with a magic marker. I keep a visual on the bit and back off before making the mark.
I know that sounds simple but I prefer not to complicate something with what can be a simple solution. A machinist needs a high degree of precision... and that requires a precision drill press which won't be found often at bargain basement prices we pay for WW presses.
Sarge..
Edited 1/25/2008 10:03 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge, thanks for the quick reply.
I like those methods too, and often use them, but also like using a depth stop when drilling multiple holes. Set it once and have one less thing to worry about.
My DP is an old Craftsman with the threaded post type stop - quick and simple.
By the way,
I asked a few years back, and you posted pictures of your impressive shop. You always seem to be adding equipment and making it even better. Hoping you'll post some updates for us to admire.
Thanks oldfred
I finally got "all" into place about a year ago, Old Fred. An upgrade here and up-grade there over the last 5 years has got it to the point I really don't need anything else but say a fresh bottle of glue. ha.. ha...
The bad news is it "over-ran" my original 900 sq. ft. and I had to grab the additional 900 sq. ft. I have in the 1/2 basement behind and go mobile with most most tools. But.. just a matter of quickly rolling up the 8" jointer.. smaller BS.. spindle sander.. scroll saw.. dado TS.. grinder.. etc. to the cut area in the front main shop when needed.
I did enlarge the door between to get them through, but the 20" planer won't even fit that. So.. the planer.. 18" BS.. TS.. SCMS.. router table and cabinet.. DP.. industrial mortise machine.. work-bench and assembly table sits up front with the cyclone. Whew... that's a mouthful.
The good news is I got it all in and have maximized the traffic to the best that I can. It works well for me.. I'll go down and take a couple of snaps of "as it is" this morning. Clean.. nah.. Functional.. Yeah.. And watch your step with a chest of drawers in progress. ha.. ha...
Regards...
Sarge..
BEAUTIFUL!!!!! I'm envious,Sarge!
You've added a lot since you posted the last set.
What brand is the cyclone? How noisy?
We've been house hunting, mostly so I can have room for a decent shop. I'm thinking a walk-out basement would make the most sense because of the oil crunch here in the Northeast.
My current little hole-in-the-wall cellar shop generates way too much noise, but it must be possible to insulate some of the sound. Just waiting to see what else we can find.
Thanks for the great pictures.
oldfred
I run the 2 H.P. Penn State Tempest "S" and I emphasize the "S" as it has an improved fin design.. cone ratio over the older Tempest which are still fine and a little less expensive. I did the home-work and decided the extra $200 was worth it.
How quiet.. relatively low decibel from what I hear, but with about a 30% hearing loss from Vietnam... I would not be the proper person to ask. I most definitely hear it though with a Uni-saw running.. so I "think" that cyclones are relatively loud and would recommend wearing protective hearing for the long run.
If you go basement... be cautious for the dust in general. I designate a "cut area" in the front shop (two car garage) near the doors on purpose. The main machines are clustered around that cyclone and so is the 8" jointer when rolled up. I also run an over-head Jet air filter.
But even then... every 4 hours or so... I put on a mask and open the outer doors. A 140 mph leaf blower takes what they don't get out the door to the promise land. Sort of my own rendition of the classic, "Gone with the Wind". Frankly Scarlet, I hate dust! ha.. ha...
Regards...
Sarge..
I had a 2000 sq. ft. school shop - all fixed up to my liking, sxcept the noise. The dust system noise drowned out the uni saw. (and probably explains a good part of my hearing deficit. ) Then retired to a 180 sq. ft. hole in our cellar. Putting up with it until we decide what we want to do when we grow up.
If I go with a basement shop, I will plan to insulate for sound and make some sort of double door dust lock to the living space. Up here in the frozen North, heating and plumbing issues make the basement shop attractive. But I'd love to have a shop, with plenty of windows, sitting up on the back hill. Decisions, decisions..........
Thanks for your answers
oldfred
Hi oldfred,
I know what you mean by up here in the frozen North being in northern NH. I have my little piece of heaven on the second floor over the woodshed wher we store our pellets.
I used to try heating it with a woodstove until I realized that it took way to long to get it heated up enough to work wood. I installed a trailer furnace that burns #2 heating oil last summer and it has been a godsend. The woodshop is only 320 sf and crowded with tools and benches but it works quite well and is warm as long as the outside temp is above 20°.
I insulated it well and it is about 2/3 drywalled at this point. This spring will see new insulation under the floor and the drywall finished which should help a lot. I also plan to relocate the DC down in the woodshed for noise abatement and gain some more room.
Prior to this shop I managed in a basement woodshop in our old house and, as you might know, it was always dark, no natural light and damp too. Constantly had to fight with wood movement. Even though the new space is smaller it is much better just from the natural light that I get.
Good luck with your new shop on the hill.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hey Bob,
I've sure managed to hijack this thread......sorry. (well, not too sorry:) )
If you're up in the White Mtns. you know what cold is. Used to spend time in Gorham area. Now some in western part below Hanover.
Think I saw a picture of your place recently in another thread? Can you pop a dormer on that shop? I did that for a friend and it made a world of difference in usable space. Dormers are pretty quick and easy.
stay warm!
oldfred
Hi oldfred,
I did post a pic of the homestead, I believe it was in the Jointer Plane discussion, the one that's pushing 2,000 posts. Believe me I have thought about a dormer more than once and yes it would dramatically increase usable shop space.
However, the knuckleheads who built the attached garage left a valley between the house and the garage roof. Not a good thing to do in snow country! If I can afford it I would like to build a full dormer that goes all the way across the existing woodshop to the peak of the garage (north facing) and extend the gambrel across the entire back side (south facing).
We've already begun collecting the necessary framing timbers and as I'm pushing 62 I'm not excited abot climbing around on rooftops! Will have to find a young un or three for that. :-)
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 1/29/2008 7:59 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Well Good luck with the dormer. Must be some capable young-uns up there willing to help?
oldfred
Good luck with what you decide. That hill out back soons really good, but the cost of constructing a sq. foot these days definitely comes into play, especially if retired. And they're not giving "hills" away either.
A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.. just do it! :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge,
A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.. just do it! :>)
Gotta love it! Like your attitude, think positive.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
And my wife just told me what this man has gotta do is get off the computer and go finish her chest of drawers. And she is so charming and lovely... that's what this man's gonna do as mama didn't raise a complete fool. :>)
Sarge..
Yep. This man is supposed to be across the hall fitting baseboard to a brick wall in the bathroom. This computer is just toooooo darned close!
Everyone back to work!
oldfred
Sarge,
Now that's some woodworking eye candy!
Damn braggard! :-)
It's just wrong that you post such pics in here. You're out to make us all jealous aint ya. You must be having a blast in there. I sure want to wish you the best of luck with it.
Hell, I could fit mine nearly 6 times into all that space.
Best Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 1/25/2008 12:40 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
My first shop was in Florida in 1973 in a small one car garage shared with washer-dryer.. hot water heater and a ton of storage boxes. I had to move those boxes outside to work.. step over everything and didn't even have a contractor saw at the time as a circular under a 2 x 4 piece of ply was the "ride".
So.. I've paid my dues and will say.. as in closet space and electrical outlets... you can never have enough IMO. Do I wish I had a separate 40' x 60" with natural sky-lights? Yep.. but the realization is I have what I have at this point and no matter what I have... I'll make it work!
Regards...
Sarge..
SARGE, what kind of heater is that I see in your shop? Does it get the job done?
Thanks...Jeff
I think they call it a "space heater" Jeff. I purchased it on clearance one spring at Lowe's when they were clearing winter stock for $119. It is run by natural gas as I was fortunate to have a 1/2" line right over my shop ceiling that ran to the fire-place starter.
It does get the job done down here in Atlanta as it puts out around 35,000 BTU I believe. Keep in mind that Atlanta is relatively warm 8-9 months a year and even winter is not that bad. 17 Degree's last night but that only comes in spurts. I ran down and turned on the heater this morning and an hour latter we were sitting on 70 degrees there as my garage.. basement and house is extremely well insulated.
They are under the house and have poured concrete walls. It is a half wall in the garage as my house is on a slope. Half concrete but all 12' in the half basement are under-ground with concrete walls poured which is insulation itself. The shop rarely gets under 50-55 degrees with the doors closed even without heat. So.. I'm lucky I can crank it out down there 6-8 hours a day 365 days a year.
Regards...
Sarge..
I was curious as to the brand of 'space heater' and whether it was natural gas or electric. The brand is not that important, so no need to answer that. Was much more interested in the fuel. Did you have to vent it to the outside? My assumption would be that you did.
My requirements are similar e.g. it doesn't get that cold where I live either. 17 degrees at night would be a very cold night here. I've been considering a heater just like yours as the answer to the occasional need for heat in my shop. I would rather have a wood stove, but can not give up the floor space. Thanks for the info.
Jeff
Sorry Jeff, as I just got back and settled from the Atlanta WW Show. The heater is natural gas as I tied into a 1/2" line running over the top of the shop to my fireplace starter. I just tapped in and ran a line down a metal support pole. The heater sits on the back of that pole in the rear of shop.
I do not vent. I have enough crack in the garage door that will vent the bad out and the good in. Probably would be more efficient if it were sealed totally and vented... but not that big a deal here in the moderate climate, so I just leave it as is.
But... I do have several smoke detectors in the shop and two carbon monoxide monitors. One beside the heater in rear of the front shop and the other nearer the front. I also have one at the top of the stairs in the rear area leading upstairs.
So far... never a problem . Only time I had one go off I was cutting phenolic with a dull 1/4" straight bit on the router for a ZCI. Was getting some real burn and major vapors off that puppy. Opened the doors fully.. turned on a 36" exhaust fan and vacated to upstairs for fresh coffee. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Sarge..
Not to hyjack Sarges answer but Procom makes a heater in appearances to the one is Sarges picture. They make several versions. Propane or natural gas. And in a radiant version or blue flame version. Home Depot and Lowes sells the same type for about $249. If you catch them on sale Harbor Freight sells them for $149! They are vent free (no exhaust needed). Some versions have a thermostat, some do not. Deppends on what model you buy.
The name on mine is Glow-Warm, which is most likely made up and manufactured under that name for Lowe's at that time which was about 3 or 4 years ago. And it did retail for around $249 I believe. I got it in the spring when they were clearing winter stock. And.. indeed it does have a built in thermostat.
So... you may very well have hit the bulls-eye with your statements.
Regards...
Sarge..
I've had the Ridgid for a while, and haven't had any problem with the depth stop. Of course, I don't bear down with all my might, but I have yet to overpower the stop.
A "real" depth stop would certainly be better (it's a lot easier to zero out and adjust), but the one on the Ridgid gets the job done.
-Steve
Hi Steve
I was in HD today and checked out the Ridgid. Looks like a good drill press. My experience with the dial type stops was with two Deltas in my school shop. The kids would overpower them now and then with their "exuberance". I also had trouble with the bearings in the Deltas. In all fairness, we were making clock motor holes with a large forstner. 3 1/4" as I remember.
Also checked out a Craftsman yesterday. It is similar in looks and price to the Rigid but does have the post type stop. The quill lock is a cheap little plastic lever that looks like it would break with the first twist. (I didn't try it...) Probably easy to replace, but why put such a flimsy lever on a $300 machine.
oldfred
Thanks, I looked at the steel city but it was a little more than I wanted to spend. I am leaning towards the Rigid since I can pick it up from HD down the street and the lifetime warranty is great.
I don't necessarily jump up and down with joy when I hear the word Rigid, Iam. But.. I was impressed with the DP the day they previewed it several years ago and purchased it two weeks latter. "It is" an excellent little drill press that is quite accurate and should meet most of your needs.
Save the extra and get something you really need like hand card scrapers.. you know, stuff that will get the call on a daily basis. ha.. ha...
Sarge..
Back to drill presses... last year I was looking at free-standing drill presses and decided to go with the Steel City. It's not every day that you need a 6" stroke, but it really saves a lot of table height adjustment. Some of the more expensive models have variable speed without changing belts (Powermatic & Delta), but I don't find changing belts to be a great hastle - it only takes a half minute. Whichever model you decide to purchase, I would recommend getting a keyless chuck for it. It saves so much time and only set me back $40.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
The Keyless chuck is a great idea. Do you have any other suggestions on beefing up a regular drill press? I'd like to build a table but I figure there is always other things you can do.
I would definately add a table. It can be as simple as a sheet of 3/4" baltic birch. Make it overhang on the sides and front to make it easier to clamp stuff to it. Be careful of too much overhang on the back. I did this on my first table and banged my knuckles every time I adjusted the table height.
My current drill press table is 14" deep by 18" wide. I built a drawer below the new table to hold all my drill bits. The entire assembly (drawer and table) sits on the stock metal table and is secured from below. I have also seen tables mounted the the column.
The table doesn't go all the way down the the base - not that I need to often, anyways. I put my bench grinder there. It's a good use of otherwise wasted space. I don't use the grinder much, and when I do, it's only for a few seconds so I just crouch down. Watch for woodchips (aka kindling) in the general vicinity.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Our son and I both have the Grizzly G7944 and I have had great luck with mine and have heard no bad comments from the son.
I have the Grizzly 7946, 5 speed Radial DP and have used it for about 3 years without anything going wrong with it. Everytime I turn it on, it's been there and done a great job for me.
I've had the Rigid for a couple of years and am very happy with it.
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