Replies

1. 
   bojanski | Dec 28, 2009 01:58pm | #1

   As far as the wood I would go with cedar. When it comes to your concerns about the future maintance, I would reccomend Sherwin Williams oil based stains. They come in solid colors or transparent and can be ordered to match or dado to the clients choice. I've used this product with good success. Good luck.

1. 
   mike_berr | Dec 28, 2009 03:11pm | #4

   Cedar was towards the top of my list but i thought it might be too "light" (I equate light with strength but i know that's not always the case). The local dealer carries Western Red or White Cedar. Either one work?

   Would Cypress be suitable?

   I'll look into the SW solid stain.

   Thanks,

   Mike

1. 
   Ray | Jan 01, 2010 11:01am | #12

   I used cypress for replacement windows in a 100 year old house, no problems. It does splinter like DF and splits like cedar. Have to choose the boards carefully.

2. 
   Quickstep | Dec 28, 2009 02:02pm | #2

   Many window manufacturers use clear pine, but it's too prone to rot for me. In the lower cost species, white oak has some rot resistance but is prone to swelling, making for a sticky window. My choice for this application would be Mahogany.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 29, 2009 10:09am | #9

   Not a window maker as such but I would agree Mahogany would be nice for window frames but it is very expensive. Cedar is wonderful wood also, but I think it a bit soft for window frames in northern states. My home is all cedar siding and it WILL rot where exposed to water. Seems like it is just in certain areas within the wood though. (7/8 inch thick vertical rough sawn boards.) Yes, I cut all that wood (some boards 20 foot long) on my old Ryobi BT3000 table saw. (I loved that little saw!)

   Somebody posted Pella windows. I have several sliding glass doors with stationary side-lights... Pella, made of pine, that I installed about 1970. All still work well. I did have one glass fog up from a broken seal. My son ran into it on a bicycle. He was not hurt and the glass did not give away... Thank God... None of my window frames have rotted out or otherwise caused any problems. I do admit, that the large thermopane glass moves within the pine frames and I keep up with reparing the wood to glass seal with a quality (as in expensive) beutel calk.

   Not a plug as such for Pella windows but my new next door neighbor bulldozed the old house and built a new one that is WAY out of my income level. (In the past or now). He had Pella windows installed. I think, not sure, he bought so many windows that a Pella engineer supervised the installition of the flashing. Maybe he just payed for it?

   The house is wood and steel frame with 6 inch thick (real stone) siding. The foundation was made to support the frame structure AND for the stone siding.

   Whatever wood used, I would say.. Proper flashing when installed IS the key to long lasting life of the window frames...

   Whatever

3. 
   Troy | Dec 28, 2009 02:16pm | #3

   Like the others I would prefer a rot resistant wood like cedar or mahogany. You mentioned vinyl and how that would be easier. Have you considered any of the semi custom makers like Marvin or Jenweld. I had Jenweld do some large Mahogany windows for my house and they seemed to be able to make just about any shape or style of window I wanted. I that would work I would think it would be much more cost effective than making a few windows as one-offs.

   Thanks

   Troy

   good luck

4. 
   kreuzie | Dec 28, 2009 05:02pm | #5

   Try Pella replacement windows. Made of wood, and to practically any size. Good windows, too, and a lot less hassle.

5. 
   popawheelie | Dec 28, 2009 05:56pm | #6

   The way the grain is oriented is important.

   It makes a big difference.

6. 
   frankv | Dec 28, 2009 11:27pm | #7

   In addition to Mahogany, Spanish cedar is another great outdoor wood and it is also very stable, which is important when making windows.

   Frank

7. 
   oldusty | Dec 28, 2009 11:36pm | #8

   Mike , Not sure what region you are in but the most common woods used here for sash windows typically has been , CVG Fir , Pine or Redwood .

8. 
   nboucher | Dec 29, 2009 11:26am | #10

   Any of the woods suggested would do, depending on your budget.

   Remember that windows using any species of wood will rot sooner or later, so keep an eye on them and keep the wood protected. Maintenance is key with wood windows. I have wood casement windows in my house that have not been maintained well by previous homeowners, and I will be replacing them this year with windows that have wood on the inside but a synthetic material on the outside.

   Flashing was mentioned. More important than wood selection, IMO, are design and proper installation. You must minimize moisture penetration between the casings and the house. And what about the house? Are there overhangs along the eaves to protect the windows at all?

   It’s always good to design things like windows with their environments in mind. There are many many things a DIYer can and should confidently tackle on a house. In my view, windows isn’t one of them.

   Also consider that there is a $1,500 federal tax credit on the table for installing energy-efficient windows (which is the impetus for replacing mine this year). I don’t believe windows you make yourself will qualify.

   Whatever you decide, good luck.

   Norman

9. 
   JohnWW | Dec 31, 2009 12:31pm | #11

   The classic choice is mahogany with clear white pine running second. In general, cedar, white, red, or Spanish, would not be used for window work since they don't have the strength and machining qualities of the other woods. As others have stated, proper design and installation, so that moisture never gets trapped in the joinery, is critical to long term survival. A badly designed or improperly installed window will rot no matter what wood is used.

   There are still plenty of wood window makers, you don't need to make them.