Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Aug 01, 2003 02:26am | #1

   You can go to http://www.oldwwmachines.com for a bottom feeder perspective or check out dealer sites such a http://www.exfactory.com

   You need more details such as if it's an out of date style head or has babbit or ball bearing. Typically many of these are three phase which is no big deal but single phase tends to sell for more. Tables can be warped and need regrinding as well. They can go from free to several thousand dollars depending on the many variables. If you know how to fix them you can get a good deal. You can also lose money if inexperienced.
1. 
   BOBABEUI | Aug 01, 2003 03:47pm | #3

   Rick,

   Thanks for the information..

2. 
   jhausch | Aug 01, 2003 03:27pm | #2

   I went poking around the site the other guy mentioned.  HOLY CRAP that is one huge Jointer! 

   If you can get it for a song, have the ability to move the unit, and can look at it as a hobby endavour, I say go for it.  I love old machines.

   THis stuff can get expensive though for a few reasons.  The motors tend to be older non-standard frame sizes, so they can only be rewound and worked on if bad, not easily replaced.  regrinding the tops can be spendy too.  The bearing set up for the cutterhead - I can't really talk to that (babbit v ball v ?) but if the unit is running now and you can check the run out, that may not be an issue.  It looks like you can have knives fabbed for it pretty easily.

   And lastly, old jointers, planers, and table saws tend to not go at auctions for "a song".  I think this is because they are still valuable pieces of machinery in a modern shop.  Good luck and post a pic if you can.

   PS-I am restoring an old matisson 244 cut off saw right now.  I will post a pic when I am done.

   PPS-I don't take the "restore" word very seriously.  I clean em up, paint em, make sure they run.  It's like with cars - some people take it to extremes; I just want a pretty and reliable daily driver.

   Steelkilt Lives!
3. 
   CKD | Aug 02, 2003 07:01am | #4

   I have a Fay and Egan jointer. I am guessing it is 1950-1960's vintage. The knives are 16" and the bed is about 8 feet long. I picked it up from a used tool dealer for $1600. As mentioned by others, mine came with a three phase motor which I had to replace. The motor and starter switch were about $450. I took about a week to rewire and clean and lubricate the entire machine. All of the moving parts had been painted several times so nothing moved which is why it took so long. Finally, the cutterhead was out of balance and the bearings were shot. $300 for the balancing and $100 for the bearings and I was in business. My total investment is about $2400 plus my time. If this machine you are looking at is running well, expect to pay at least $2000 to $3000, if not a little more. It is a great tool and puts all other jointers I have used to shame. The beds are dead flat, glide effortlessly and the 16" cutting width is great to have.

   good luck,

   chris

4. 
   rslatm | Aug 02, 2003 04:46pm | #5

   Some machines have direct drive motors so a converter would be the best way to go. Sometimes a converter is the best way to go even if the motor can be replaced. Old style heads are typically a square head or round with 3/8" thick slotted knives. Also nothing wrong with babbitt bearing if the head is a modern style. You can buy new babbit alloys to repour if necessary as well. Plus you will need a decent machinists straight edge around 6' long. My sharpening shop will regrind an old paper knife and cost around $75. It compares favourably to my Starrett. I actually made my living for a number of years repairing all kinds of woodworking machinery.
5. 
   patricks13 | Aug 03, 2003 01:28am | #6

   I paid $1400 for this S.A. Woods 12" jointer, without the stock feeder. The size matches my 13" planer and bandsaw so it works well for me. I got it from a woodworking shop that was closing up and everything was in good working order except I replaced the 5 hp 3 phase belt drive motor for a single phase.

    

   Lunch box planers don't take much of a cut without bogging down so I use this instead of a big planer.

   
1. 
   AlanTurner | Aug 07, 2003 12:39am | #7

   I too have an old 12" and love it.  I am intrigued by your powerfeeder.  How do you like it?  Do you always use it, or do you take it on and off?  Does it promote accuracy, or does it have so much pressure that on certain cuts it presses hard enough so that you get a banana in - banana  out situation?

   Alan

1. 
   patricks13 | Aug 07, 2003 04:59am | #8

   S4S, I like it a lot. I only have a lunchbox planer which, as you probably know, is painfully slow. So I get one surface flat, run it in the planer to get both sides parallel, then back to the jointer/feeder to get close to size. Then finish with planer. Mucho faster. Speed wise almost the same as having a real planer.

    

   I crank it up and spin it around out of the way and get the wood flat by hand. So like a planer, banana in, banana out. Once the wood is flat it stays that way. I apply the majority of pressure right after the cutterhead on the outfeed table. It is a 1hp SCMI that weighs around 140 lbs complete so the finish is better than pushing by hand. It is also safer than pushing by hand.

    

   If there is a drawback compared to a real planer depends on if you jointer is aligned correctly. If you jointer cuts more on one side than the other the difference adds up for every pass.

    

   I can't take credit for the idea. The feeder mount was on the jointer when I bought it.