Replies

1. 
   Tao | Dec 12, 2003 05:19am | #1

   Epoxy would be my first choice.  What's to dread?

   Be sure to rough up the surface of the rod that the glue will contact.

   Michael R

2. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 12, 2003 07:38am | #2

   I used Gorilla Glue to bond sheet steel to MDF one time. Never heard a complaint from the customer.

1. 
   tufenhundel | Dec 12, 2003 08:58am | #3

   Used Gorilla glue to bond a copper sheet to ply...even rough sanded the copper...I was able to pull the two apart with just my hands....FWIW

1. 
   jackplane | Dec 12, 2003 05:42pm | #5

   Titebond I or II will not work.As mentioned,I'd use epoxy, not the cheap 5-minute stuff,but West Systems or similar.

2. 
   aksophie | Dec 12, 2003 09:41pm | #10

   In my experience, a poly glue failure occurs because of insufficient moisture within the joint. I have bonded sheet steel to mdf and a Gorilla wouldn't have been able to pull them apart (without destroying the mdf, of course). I applied the glue to teh mdf and lightly sponged water onto the steel prior to joining and clamping.

1. 
   tufenhundel | Dec 13, 2003 08:49am | #12

   I am aware of the moisture requirements for poly glue...I'd just thought the ambient moisture would be enough.

   I'll have to remember this next time I work with copper.

3. 
   jako17 | Dec 12, 2003 05:41pm | #4

   Epoxy for sure .Don't forget to wash the steel with alcohol and don't touch it with fingers before gluing .There are also CA glues

4. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 12, 2003 05:47pm | #6

   Coolchem.com sells a 2 part CA that does wood to metal.  Spendy, but neat for jigs.

   Alan

5. 
   JohnWW | Dec 12, 2003 07:31pm | #7

   Clay,

   Epoxy would be the way to go, JB Weld which you can find in a lot of stores including Home Depot and K-Mart is legendary for its ability to bond to metal, but most any epoxy will do an adequate job for you.  In general, slow set epoxies have more final strength than the 5 minute types.

   Be aware that epoxy will give you sufficient strength for a low load connection but won't be able to resist a lot of torque or pull.  If the connection is going to be loaded, you should back up the epoxy with a mechanical attachment, such as a cross pin.

   John W. 

1. 
   MikeRooney | Dec 12, 2003 08:44pm | #8

   If you use threaded rod instead of dowel rod, the epoxy can grab in the threads and give you a mechanical bond. I remember seeing my dad coat a bolt with vaseline, then stick it in a hole packed with epoxy - after the epoxy set, he could unscrew it - voila - threaded insert!

6. 
   aksophie | Dec 12, 2003 09:36pm | #9

   I have used both 5 min. epoxy and one of the poly glues (Gorilla Glue is one brand). Both will do the job. Titebond will not. If you choose the poly glue, be sure to add a bit of moisture into the hole since the poly needs that in order to cure.

7. 
   AlanWS | Dec 12, 2003 09:54pm | #11

   This is taken from "The Epoxy Book", available from http://www.system3.com for free.

   "Metal to metal bonding success depends upon the type of

   metals bonded, the surface preparation, and the intended

   service temperature. Generally, we recommend against

   making structural metal-to-metal bonds with boatbuilding

   epoxy resins. Our testing shows that these bonds degrade over

   time due to differential thermal expansion rates setting up

   shear stress and resultant interfacial failure. For non-structural

   applications the flexible mastic materials appear to hold better

   than the more rigid epoxies as they better allow for thermal

   expansion.

   Metal to wood bonding for non-structural applications may be

   done successfully with System Three epoxy providing that the

   metal is clean and bright. Structural applications are best

   when they are mechanically fastened. Don't pot stainless steel

   bolts in epoxy resin. Stainless steel works only in the

   presence of sufficient oxygen. The epoxy will deprive it of

   oxygen causing crevice corrosion in the presence of an

   electrolyte like seawater. Stainless steel fastener failure

   occurs where the bolt emerges from the epoxy resin"

   A mechanical fastening, such as that you would get from epoxying a threaded rod, sounds good, as would a method that included a cotter pin or screw to tighten wood around the metal. Some sort of flexible contact adhesive or silicone RTV might work. But all of this will vary depending on the amount and direction of force the joint must withstand.

8. 
   Clay | Dec 13, 2003 10:10am | #13

   Okay thanks everyone for your insights and ideas.  I will want this joint to be structural since these posts will attach the spindle that forms the handle to the cover panel for the refrigerator.  Such doors sometimes require moderate force to open and they are opened quite often.  I will chuck these posts up and turn some annular rings (like those on ring shanked nails) on the tenon ends.  Those should give me a reasonably strong mechanical bond so that the glue is mostly for extra insurance.  Then I will use some of my system three epoxy (which is pretty flexible epoxy).  I think that should do the trick.  I will try to get back here with a report on this plans success.  Thanks again for all your help.

1. 
   JBD | Dec 14, 2003 09:34am | #14

   Although epoxy will work great, I would use PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive.  Cheapest, best, and bonds better than any in wood to metal bonds.  It has higher cohesional strength than Gorilla Glue, although it too is a good choice.  There is plenty of moisture in the wood to set off gorilla glue too.  Too much moisture and you get excessive foaming and then lose cohesion.  Trust me - I have two patents in polymer science.