Hello Everyone,
I just posted this, not at all sure how it got in the joinery folder…
I am just curious if anyone has ever tried to make their own bandsaw blades using blade coil stock.
If so did you use the silver solder or did you actually weld the joint.
Thanks,
John
Replies
The band saw material is very thin so I think it would take a pretty sophisticated welder to avoid melting the band material. I have successfully silver soldered a blade industrial band saws use to come with spot welders so the blades could be cut, threaded into a hole then welded. Maybe you could find a used spot welder - try your local orthodontist.
I've welded blades, but only while using the built-in welder on the side of the bandsaw. It's easy enough, and it works well, but I don't know if it would be practical to try to do it without the specific equipment for blade welding. I've never tried to silver solder a bandsaw blade.
-Steve
jpat,
I have successfully silver soldered broken blades that I felt had a few more miles left in them. I got one of the kits that you see offered in the catalogs from time to time. Came with a clamp/jig that holds the blade ends after you've ground them, silver solder, paste flux, and directions.
Ray
It is much cheaper to buy coiled blade stock: the usual length in a coil is 30metres, but I have seen Eclipse coils of 150 feet.
The common joining method now is via an electric but welder, and this item is often part of metal cutting band saws, or can had as a free standing machine. A lot of people don't seem to realise that the butt welder doesn't just hold the two ends in contact and pass a current: it actually draws those ends up hard against each other when they are red hot.
Silver soldering them is stronger but takes time and some skill. The kit that Ray mentions is helpful because it is a jig that allows accurate alignment of the ends. The tricky part is filing the scarf joint i.e the ends must be an over- lapping taper.
I still feel a lot safer running a big band saw blade that is silver solder joined.
Lee Valley sells a kit for silver soldering blades , i bought one , havent used one yet
To use the silver solder kits, you have to get the blade ends to be a perfect match, it's not easy and takes time. Everything from position to heat has to be correct. If the solder or the weld stands proud of the blade, it will tick through the blade guides, maybe even get caught and cause a problem to the blade or the guides. Unless you get things exactly right, you won't like a soldered blade. The amount of pressure that is applied to most blades can break the solder. I don't think coil stock is the answer for most small shops. A couple of mistakes soon eat up any perceived savings. A blade failure can be dangerous.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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