I have 3 water stones and the Veritas Stone Pond. I got to wondering today if there are any “correct” or best practices to use in maintaining the water stones.
Since I may go a couple of months between using them, I have always poured out the water and cleaned things up between uses. I would assume that it would not be good to let the water set in the container nor the water stones in the water for that length of time.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
Alan
Replies
I have the pond as well, and my stones are always there, with water, which I change out every couple of months, when I think of it. I have had no problem.
s4s, thanks for the info, Alan
Having not been asked, I'll give an answer anyway. I do it two ways. One, on a diamond stone, 2x8 or so, coarse (I don't have the extra coarse). Second, just depending, on a glass, with abrasive powder that came with the pond. If it's a lot, I use the glass; if a litte, the diamond stone. After using the abrasive, be careful to wash the stone well to dislodge any embedded grit.
Alan,
My stones stay in 5 gal bucket with lid. I stand them on end so the clay sediment doesn't collect on theme. This way their always ready to use. I added a cap full of bacteriacide used in humidifiers to prevent organic scum from forming. And I flatten my stones before I put them away so I know their flat the next time I use them. Hope this helps.
Greg
Greg,
Any idea if the additive you use has any effect on the stones over the longhaul?
Also, how do you flatten your stones? Is there more than one option?
Alan
Edited 2/19/2003 4:16:50 PM ET by Alan
Alan
You can also use a green stone to flatten. Just a note, under no circumstances let them freeze. Trust me on that one. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
Sarge-
Yup, I broke one too..kept them in a water-filled tupperware in the garage (my shop). Kicked myself in the arse for that one.
Best improvement I made was to buy a Veritas honing guide. Very nice, but it's a bit tricky to keep the chisel straight while tightening.
Johnny
Johnny
Best move I made was to tap into the natural gas pipe over-head that goes to the fire-place starter. Added a space heater and my shop never goes below 65 degrees in the colder months, even in winter. ha..ha..
Have a great day...
sarge..jt
Perhaps this is a dumb question, as I'm quite new to woodworking. With all of the fine sawdust in the air while you're working on a project, aren't you worried about a fire, or even an explosion?
Mark
Not a dumb question, but a very alert one. Yes, that is a possibility and needs to be dealt with by each WW.
I have installed a DC that is direct hook-up to an individual machine. I have always used a direct shop-vac hook-up before that. I set up my shop in a way I can move the major saw-dust producers to the front near the door. BTW. I installed the heater to the rear purposely. (Double garage doors) I get most sawdust with the DC and what fine dust that gets past it (.001 micron) I handle in this manner. About every hour I open the garage doors and start in the back of the shop from the door to the 1/2 basement. Turn off the gas heater and use my electric leaf blower and move it out the doors from the rear.
I even use a direct hook up for the ROS sander and belt-disc sanders. Now, if the shop does get to the point of dust still floating everywhere, take a coffee break and come up and answer questions and poke a little fun on Knots. When the dust settles, go back and do the same old things again. ha..ha..
Hope this sheds some light or dust...
sarge..jt
The amount of flammable dust in the air has to reach some minimum concentration before it will support an explosion. The flame from one dust mote has to be able to raise the next one to ignition temperature. The required concentration for wood dust is pretty high. 40 grams of dust per cubic meter of air is often given as the lower explosive limit. I'll probably get in trouble for saying this without citing an authority, but I seem to remember reading that if you can see to work, the risk of explosion is not very high.
A Google search for
"wood dust" concentration (explosion OR explosive)
will give you hours of fascinating reading.
Thanks Unc, I have never read at what point it might. Whatever it is, guess I've been under that to this point. ha..ha..
sarge..jt
I use a cheap method that works well for me: I keep two 1000-grit stones (Norton)instead of just one. I rub the two together in various directions and they flatten each other out perfectly. Then I use one 1000 to flatten my 4000. Then I use the 4000 to flatten the 8000. The extra 1000-grit stone is relatively cheap and less of a hassle to use (I find) than changing sandpaper or grit and glass. Plus I have two flat 1000 stones each time I sharpen (the high corners kind of "erase" each other nicely when I rub them together).
Plinthe
Alan,
It has been about 6 months since I started using a bucket with bactericide in it to hold my stones and have not seen any negative effects to my stones. Before I was using the Lee Valley pond and would have scum forming pretty quickly and I would need to change the water. Much less maintenance this way. I have been using a heavy marble setup table that I got from Lee Valley and 220 carbide paper to flatten my stones. Its very heavy so it won't deflect when flattening. I have the plate stored in a plastic container of water ready to go. I first tried a diamond plate but really wasn't happy with the results. The plate and carbide paper works real well. I also draw several lines on my stone with a pencil before flattening to see the progress. You can also use plate glass and carbide paper, or I have heard of people using ceramic floor tile as a base for the carbide paper.
Greg
Greg,
Question. I assume you are equating no problem with using the bactericide as opposed to their having been a problem with the stone pond?! Am I correct?
Thanks for the additional info on how you flatten the stones.
Alan / Planesaw
Alan,
Not really. I have seen no degradation in any of my stones since I have been using the bactericide. I really wasn't comparing it to using the Lee pond. When I decided to use the bucket I knew I was going to have problems with algae if I didn't do anything to control it, so I looked at couple of things to control it. One was bleach which usually calcium hypochlorite which is somewhat caustic and the other was the humidifier bactericide which uses some complex organic compound. I kind of felt that the bactericide was a little more benign than bleach so I went with it. I was concerned about the effect it would have on the binding and abrasive in the stones, but so far I have noticed no change in how my stones behave while sharpening.
Greg
Alan (who spells his name correctly)
I also keep all my stones in water. I use a Tupperware container in which all four stones fit nicely. To keep from growing anything I put in a cap full of Clorox whenever I think of it. I've had no troubles.
As for flattening: I got one of those ceramic flattening "bricks" (for lack of a better term). I've had it several years now, and I've used it to flatten every stone I have--including my green stone (hmmm. I guess that means I have five stones) and it's still flat. It's a little pricey, but IMHO it's worth it.
Alan (who also spells his name correctly)
Alan,
Good name! Born in the 40s or 50s? Seems to have been a common spelling of that era.
I am not familiar with the "brick." What can you tell me about it? Brand, source, cost?
Thanks,
Alan / Planesaw
Alan/Planesaw,
Yup. You're right about my era; I'll say no more (I just had a birthday. I'm too young to be this old!).
The stone flattening "brick" I got from Garrett-Wade about ten or so years ago. As I now remember (no guarantees) it cost around sixty dollars. I've seen them in other catalogs besides Garrett-Wade: IIRC, Japan Woodworker, along with Highland Hardware and Woodcraft carry them.
At one time or another I've used about all the methods others have mentioned; the brick works easiest and surer than any other method I've used. But I know one fellow who flattens his stones on a concrete block, and another who rubs his on his concrete garage floor. Whatever works.
Alan (we've got to agree to something to avoid confusion. I've forgotten which Alan I am!)
Alan,
Well, speaking of birthdays -- I have one coming up next month. My parents say it will be my 56th, but I don't think I have had more than about 38 or 39. As you said, I am too young to be this old. But, I wouldn't trade the wisdom and knowledge I have acquired in these years. Wish I knew what I know about woodworking now about 25 or 30 years ago.
Next month -- reminds me, the birthday will be worth 10 percent off at Woodcraft. So, not all bad.
Thanks for the info on the "brick." Think I'll check my stones to see if they need flattening. Will have to start looking for a "brick" or its equivalent.
Glad to learn from everyone who has replied to my original question that most leave their stones in the water and just make sure they change the water periodically or treat it so it doesn't go bad. My concern has been that since I am not a full time woodworker and therefore not sharpening tools daily or weekly that leaving stones in the water for a long time might damage them. Good to know that is not the case.
Thanks to everyone who has replied. It is great to be among people who gladly share their skills and knowledge.
Alan / Planesaw (so you will know which Alan I am / you are / they aren't. :)
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