Replies

1. 
   JsHerbel | May 26, 2004 09:54pm | #1

   Hydrocote makes a water based product called Danish Oil Finish. I have never used it so I can't give insights in to its performance. I know Highland Hardware sells it.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 27, 2004 07:12am | #2

   Thanks.  I'll give it a try.

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 06, 2004 03:02am | #10

   Okay, I bought some Hydrocote water-borne Danish Oil and tried it.   My first reaction is that it is unlike anything I've ever seen before.   Look in the can, and it is milky-white (like water-borne varnishes), with tiny pink dots suspended in it.  Yeah, pink -- strange looking stuff.  It applies like conventional oil -- that is, I wiped it on with a rag and wiped off the excess.   Considering that it contains water, it doesn't raise the grain much at all.   In a few hours, the wood surface feels and looks oily; any water seems to have gone away.   I cut a sample (cedar) in half, and the oil has penetrated a long way -- over an eighth of an inch.   Three days after application, the stuff doesn't seem to have cured very much.   If I rub the surface, my hand comes away shiny with oil and smelling of it too. 

   Slow cure -- or maybe no cure -- isn't real good.  I might have to go back to a traditional solvent-based oil finish.

2. 
   Sancho | May 27, 2004 11:00pm | #3

   Why not use a O/B stain and go over it with a W/B poly. I like the amber tint poly by enduro  coat http://www.compliantspraysystems.com

    

   Darkworksite4:

   El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera

1. 
   JsHerbel | May 27, 2004 11:29pm | #4

   Water based poly builds a film just like oil based poly, which he doesn't want.

   Also, applying a water based finish over an oil finish can create a problem in that the oil would have to be completely dry and that can take literally months with linseed oil, and I would still be a little leary about doing it after waiting months. A person could apply shellac over the oil finish and then apply water based poly, but here again, you have the film build of shellac plus the poly.

    My finishing skills are only adequate, but that's my take. 

1. 
   Sancho | May 28, 2004 04:56pm | #8

   I dont use linseed oil. But when I use a O/B stain I only have to let it dry maybe a day or 2. I use a sealer then begin spraying. BTW what do you think hydrocoat is?

   Maybe just going over it with shellac would solve his prob.

   Then again they make a w/b laquer.

   A tongue oil/o/b stain is also made by general finishes. I used it once. came out nice.

    

   Darkworksite4:

   El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera

   Edited 5/28/2004 9:59 am ET by RonT

3. 
   CStanford | May 27, 2004 11:31pm | #5

   Unless you plan on delivering the piece before the finish has cured I wouldn't worry about it. 

   Both products are going to leave only linseed oil behind no matter if the solvent is mineral spirits or water.

4. 
   OneofmanyBobs | May 28, 2004 04:59am | #6

   Use "Tried and True" danish oil.  No solvents.  Nontoxic even when wet.  A polymerized linseed oil product.

5. 
   theRev | May 28, 2004 11:16am | #7

   I would definitely do a test piece with the hydrocote. I used it before and did not like the way it came out. I would never use it again. Since it is water bse, the grain raises considerably. And I found the odor to be much worse and longer lasting than that of regular oil finish.

   but, your actual mileage may vary....

   scott

1. 
   Walnutburl | May 28, 2004 05:04pm | #9

   Hey Jamie, I use all WB finishes and am well versed in Hydrocote Danish. Good product but throw their directions away. After you apply the danish oil, allow it to set for a day. Then make sure you seal it with shellac. I mix my own and use 1 1/2 lb cut. This will allow the WB finish to be used over it. I have tried to seal with a WB lacquer after the danish oil, and it is a pain. Also I would stay clear of the Hydrocote finish and use PSL from Target.

   Edited 5/28/2004 10:05 am ET by Walnutburl

6. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 06, 2004 06:59am | #11

   I don't know beans about Hydrocote "oil", but from what I read here, I don't think I want to go there.

   I second "Bob's" recommendation (post #7 here) re: the Tried and True products. I have used them a couple of times, and because it is linseed oil based, the fumes do seem less noxious than other oil products (although none of them are really bad on my nose).

   I do know that Chris Becksvoort has been using this stuff for sometime, and his pieces always look terrific. On the other hand, he gets to do the finishing prior to delivery -- which I assume is not true in your case.

   The label on T&T products is very "green" -- and maybe your client will yield if you show them the can and a sample.

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 06, 2004 01:19pm | #12

   I'm not fond of any water-based finishes yet.  A solution waiting for a problem in my opinion.  Pure linseed takes forever to cure without driers.  Likewise for walnut oil, but the smell is vastly better.  Pure tung does cure fairly quickly without driers.  Just don't leave much on the surface.  Solvents help penetration.  But, if you don't want solvents or driers you can just heat it.  Just boil a pan of water.  Pour some oil into a cup and sit the cup in the pan of water.  You've taken it off the heat and into the shop of course.  Should cure in less than a week.

   So, three reasonable options.  Tried & True, heated 100% pure tung, or pure walnut oil if you don't mind a wet surface for some weeks until it cures.

1. 
   Walnutburl | Jun 06, 2004 04:28pm | #13

   Hi Jamie, I wrote that you needed to seal in a day with shellac. I have done this many times. It does work. Try it on a hunk of scrap and let us know what happens.

   Edited 6/6/2004 9:31 am ET by Walnutburl