I am making a set of end tables from kiln dried walnut. The walnut is not fas but from a local sawmill that has a kiln. It has some blemishes but works well. I will plan to dye the whole piece to cover the white splashes other white grain. I have milled the legs and top and scraped and plained the machine marks out.
I understand the water soluble dye will raise the grain. Shall I apply the dye stain and then scrape again or should I raise the grain with water and scrape then dye?
Replies
Lyn,
The water-based dye will raise the grain but although it feels rough to your finger tips it only requires a very light pass with fine, fine grit paper to smooth it. I generally use 320grit or finer wrapped around a flat block (or one shaped to fit a curved surface) and with a very light touch. There should be no visible dust in the air, just a bit of colour on the sandpaper.
Were you to scrape it, most of the dye would come out with the shavings and you would be back to square one. The penetration of the dye is very, very slight. Put the scraper away when you have reached the ready-to-colour-it stage.
The trick with water-based dye is to get it on evenly, which means fast; and not letting an "edge" of one of your swipes with brush or cloth dry out before you colour the area next to it. If you can, get the density of application right so that one coat does the job. You can apply more coats but you start to run the risk of patches forming.
The water based dye is susceptible to moisture-marking until it's fixed by something more moisture-resistant. Once it's on, dry and the raised grain smoothed, fix it with whatever finish you're going to use. I like a Danish oil or oil-based gel, of N coats where N is determined by what abuse the surface may get (more abuse, higher N). A coloured wax to match the stain is usually my final coat, once the oil or gel is dry.
Lataxe
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